Hello, I have a 2003 kenworth T800 quad axle dump. Needing to replace bushings in my drop axles. might be dumb question but I have never encountreed this so … the bolts that are in my bushing locations are all flat head carriage style bolts.. on the other side it doesn’t look like a way to put a wrench on anything as it is round and looks to be attached to frame. Anyone with knowledge to share how theses are taken off ? View attachment IMG_1633.jpeg
With a torch usually, or a plasma cutter if your fancy like that.
WaterDoc is right. They are rivets not bolts.
Looks like a rivet. I don't know of any way to remove a rivet other than cutting it.
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I have removed by using a skinny wheel cutting several X's and using a large chisel, popped the heads off that way too, especially effective on smaller 3/8 & 1/2" holding landing gear to trailers with aluminum belt line. *
Yup, Hucks, cut or grind. Ed
If your lucky, the bolt will be seized into the bushing; then you have the opportunity to do more work than just cut the head off . . .
Some engineer somewhere is laughing his ass off, he invented the ideal fastener. Joe H
For certain applications they are the ideal fastener. I used to work for Simplicity (now Terex), they were all we used to hold our vibrating screens, feeders and shake-outs together. The 3/4 Huck gun was a toy for Grant our assembler, when the 1" was needed, different story, he would hang it from the overhead crane...lol. Everyone in the shop jumped the first time he pulled the trigger. Ed
For truck/trailer construction Hucks are the ideal fastener. Won't find hucks coming loose unless metal area around rivet is cracking. A factory riveted truck frame is far superior to a bolted frame. Pete & Kenworth both were a constant issue looking for loose cross- member bolts, especially on aluminum crossmembers. Pete with their three piece flanged bolted crossmembers would get loose, crack. If bolted, flange bolts & flange nuts only, no flat washers, even then constantly need to be checked. The one crossmember that was a constant culprit on both K&P is the rear cab support, it's the first crossmember from front frame horns back with a expanse of 9 to 10' with engine torque working it to death also.
Looks like a Huck of a job, to get out. It’s snowing, I’ll be here all day. lol
As posted above, it is the "Ideal fastener" in some applications. No concerns over if the fastener is torqued properly on the assembly line, and all the calibrations & checking that go along with torquing.
I meant it was perfect from the engineer's view in that the guy trying to get it apart is screwed. Joe H
He's screwed because he can't unscrew it.
If you're good with a torch you could get a rivet cutting tip and zip the heads off. I'm not sure but an annular cutter in a mag drill might cut the heads off where you could pound the shank out.
Try doing an engineers job today. or "walk a mile in someone else's shoes before you condemn them"
The Huck rivet is a great invention. consistent clamping force with out a torque wrench. I believe they came from the aircraft industry. Volvo trucks use them in place of frame bolts. The ones Volvo uses have a thread and the collars are hex so you can remove them with an impact gun.
Bendon tried to duplicate the Pakistinion method of huckbolt/rivet removal. Without the same success, but he does show the x method like Truck Shop explained.