Hi all- time to repack two small cylinders on a 4-in-1 skidsteer bucket. However, how does this gland cap come off? There are no flats for a wrench or holes for a spanner? The only thing I could find was a small slot below the cap on the cylinder body. Any insight would be appreciated!
It might help if you at least say what make the machine is, assuming the bucket is OEM of course.
I am guessing that is a bobcat 4in1. I know they used that type of cylinder on the older ones at least. To get those apart you just use a pipe wrench to turn them. There is a lock wire in that slot that you have to pull out as you turn it. Think of a long flexible piece of keystock. It will have a hook bent onto one end and there will be a small hole drilled into the rod guide for the hook to fit into. You will need to turn the rod guide to expose the tail end of lock wire and the using a small screwdriver get the tail pulled out of the slot. Then as you turn the rod guide it should force the lock wire out as you go. Once wire is removed rod and guide should pull straight out of the barrel but will take some force usually because all of the seals on piston and guide will get hung up in the lock wire grove since everything is tapered to allow for easy installation and not necessarily disassembly. Hope that is clear as mud and if you have more questions just ask away.
And hope the hook on the end of the wire isn't snapped off, life sucks when that happens.
Good point! Unfortunately, it’s an aftermarket bucket made by HLA. 4 - IN - 1 Bucket Includes 2-1/2 hlaattachments.com I’ll reach out to them on Monday if no one is familiar with this style cylinder. Thanks!
I got distracted before I posted my reply with the bucket manufacturer. Thanks for the instructions! Sounds like a royal pain in the ***…
Actually, compared to other gland fitments, which can be incredibly tight because of threads, the wire retainer system can be much easier for a novice who doesn't have a hydraulic cylinder bench. As long as the gland isn't stuck/seized, you're able to turn it, that's good. Simply rotate the gland and view that slot where the wire retainer is. Watch for the end of the wire to appear. Once it does, start rotating the gland in the direction that allows you to pry the wire out of the slot while you rotate the gland. Once you get the wire protruding out of the slot, rotate the gland until the hook comes around and the wire will pop right out. But before you do all this, make sure you've removed all of the oil from the cylinder by moving the rod in and out while displacing the oil in a bucket or pan. The reason for that, once you get that wire retainer removed, you're going to have to be able to slide the cylinder rod out quicky using the piston of the cylinder as a slide hammer to drive the gland out of the cylinder. If the cylinder still has oil in it, that ain't gonna happen.
Yes it does. I have a slide hammer set from OTC that has a vicegrip adapter with it and works great for when that happens. Usually takes 2 people though. One to slowly rotate the rod guide and one to operate the slide hammer. On another note I always replace the lock wire any time I have one of these types of cylinders.
My plan was to take the old seals to a local hydraulic shop to match up for new ones. In your experience, would they be likely to have new lock wires too or is it a manufacturer specific item?
Most of them have the lock wire on hand. Will come in just a 12" length and you cut and bend yourself. Your best off to use a plumbers torch to heat the wire and bend the 90deg hook. I always make the hook long and then trim to length after it is bent. Then when you install it rotate the rod guide all the way around letting the lock wire get pulled in on its own and mark it where it needs cut. Then back it off about ¼-½ turn and cut.