Hi all, this is the fifth hydraulic cylinder i have rebuilt due to leaking. But this is the first one where I cannot get the bolt loose that holds the piston to the cylinder loose. I broke my 3/4 inch breaker bar trying to loosen it. Any tips or tricks to get it loose? This is on a 2005 Case Super M series 2. It is the cylinder for the rear bucket. I did try a 3/4 inch impact but no luck? Maybe a 1 inch impact? I know the others were right, but nothing a cheater pipe couldn't take care of. Any tips would be really appreciated. Thanks! Paul
Cut a wrench out of 1/2-1" plate and use a cheater pipe on that. If it has locktite, heat it to 300F.
Delmer covered it pretty good I like to use other heavy equipment to apply the force even a comealong or floor jack can apply a lot more force safer than bouncing on a pipe If your impacting and the rod is bouncing it uses up a lot of the force If its a bolt and you have good aim a good sharp hit on the face with a 8 pound hammer might break it loose Torque amplifier might be the ticket also
The last piston bolt I couldn't get off I took it to the yellow JD shop. The guy used a 1 inch HF impact connected to a big hose with who knows how much pressure. Zapped it right out. I had bought the same gun he used and got their largest fittings. My compressor wouldn't touch it. Next time I plan to use it as an excuse to buy a bigger compressor.
I used a 185 cfm, big hose and Chicago fittings one time with my 1”. Hit like a ton of bricks…..until it broke the anvil lol
If u have a hydro shop close by, it’s worth the extra bucks to get them to loosen it for you..
What size hose did you use on your compressor? A freon tank with a small quick coupler to charge from the compressor, but a short 3/4 or 1" hose to the gun, no valves, no couplers, is one way to get decent power out of a >1/2" impact. You only get a couple seconds, but that's a couple seconds of good power. Then wait for the compressor to catch up again.
Think I read where some Case cylinders used Loctite. Try heating it before going to extremes. If it still won't come loose take it to a shop with a cylinder bench. Keep in mind it has to be tightened back up just as tight. A shop could loosen it change the seals and tighten it back on. I had that done and it cost a little under $100 for the labour. The seals were around the same price as the labour so the total was under $200. Well worth it in my opinion.
That cylinder has a self-tapping lock screw in the joint of the gland and barrel. The head of could be sheared off making it very hard to see.
Piston nut Tink.
I used a 955 and a 966 to break one lose once .
Brain lapse due to old age !
My get by compressor is a little 20 gallon tank with a 2HP compressor being driven by a 3/4 HP gas pump motor. It pumps to about 100 PSIG. The tank has a 1" pipe plug in the end so next time I needed more force I was going to tap into that with a short large hose to see if it would work before upgrading. I don't have room in my garage for a big unit like I had in my old shop.
I could not open the bolt on my boom cylinder, which takes the 1-7/8 socket. I put the rod back on the backhoe, it provides a lot more stiffness than vise. Used the head of a 3/4 breaker bar rod with a 1" thick and 8 feet long handle. The handle started to bend so much that I stopped trying. Heat was the solution. You don't always need an oxy-acetylene torch. I used a plumber's propane torch. Heat all that area around the bolt up to about 2-3 inches from the end. After I heat it mine up it opened almost too easy. Good luck
Any signs of Loctite?
Mine didn't have any signs of loctite.
Hi all, sorry for the late reply. Applied the right amount of heat and it came out with the 3/4inch impact. It did have some sort of loc tite on it. First out of the cylinders to have it or enough on it for it needed to be heated. Appreciate all the comments and suggestions on this!