New to the forum-Thanks! I'm in the process of repacking the hydraulic cylinders on my case 580d super. On the loader lift cylinder, I had to use a block of wood and a hand sledgehammer to slide the gland nut off the rod. It came off a fraction of an inch at a time. I was hoping that perhaps a seal was pinched or folded and new seals would fix it. No such luck! It's even harder sliding the gland nut with new seals back on the rod than it was. I noticed the inside of the gland nut, under the seals looks corroded and rougher than I would expect. Wondering if the corrosion has swelled the inside making the seals too tight. Any ideas are appreciated!
Is there a wear bushing in front of the oil seal. They use to like to do that for some reason if it get oxidation under it they tighten up. I can't speak as to if your machine is that way or not
Aluminum gland head? If yes, as tyler mentioned, likely oxidation build up inside the bore of the gland cause by failed wiper ring allowing moisture inside the bore of the gland above the rod seal. Clean it well with wire tooth brush and emery cloth or a small diameter wire brush in a die grinder. And a round wire brush in a Dremel tool works well to clean the rod seal and wiper grooves.
Welcome to HEF, farmerdavy ! Something is wrong. A gland should slide up and down a cylinder rod with some resistance. But, it shouldn't be as tight as you are describing. Are the grooves the seals sit in clean and free of any crap ?? Wrong seal kit in it ?? It isn't unusual for the interior of a gland to be rusty (corroded). Can you post some photos of it ?
Yes i believe so if its a hard plastic sleeve. And if does have corrosion behind it.
Thank you! I'll take a picture and post it tomorrow. Sounds like corrosion is perhaps making the wear bushing too tight. I ordered the seal kit from brokentractor using the serial number printed on the gland nut. I cleaned the grooves but will work on removing the corrosion. Have to take out the new seals very carefully! According to the parts manual the cylinder is "no longer used" so may be hard to find a new gland nut if needed.
If you don't have a gland seal installation tool, I recommend that you get one for the inner seal. It eliminates the chance of damage when installing it.
Almost all my glands on my 580 E came off the same way, 5 lb dead blow to the rescue. The inside flat seal they call the bushing, had a lot of rust underneath it from water in my hydraulic oil rusting it, I believe causing it to swell against the rod. I used a flap wheel on a die grinder to clean it up and then a wire brush.
Maybe shoulda cleaned better before first try at assembly, already had everything apart. Anything dirt, rust, corrosion that you leave behind may end up in your pump. Something to think about the next time. Anything hydraulic or fuel related-clean, clean clean.
Sorry, not communicating correctly. It was completely clean on re-assembly, I believe it was that rust under the rod bearing that caused them to all come off so hard. Not sure if your post was to me or the OP but you are exactly correct.
Dude, was referencing farmerdavy.
Thanks everyone for the help!! Problem solved!! The attached picture is after I took out the new wear sleeve. Originally, I cleaned everything with kerosene then brake cleaner but didn't wire brush the crap in the middle thinking it was just a rough casting. Today I used a wire wheel on a drill and a dremel and got it really scraped out. Reinstalled the seals and the part slid on perfectly! Ive got this set. Thanks!
Yes clean way better!!
John deere use to like to use packings. You about had to beat those cylinders back together.
Like Harley said that rust is probably from moisture in hyd. system. When I bought my C it had buttermilk in the hyd. system and every gland on the machine looked like that. Only takes one to learn ya about proper preparation. I learned the same way you did. Won't happen again will it?
No it won't happen again!
I had the exact same problem on several cylinders on my 480e. I put the gland nut in my lathe and made a very light pass with an internal boring bar to true them back up. I realize most people don’t have a lathe, but if you do it’s a really fast way to bring that bore back to spec.
The rust in that bore is quite common. The wiper seal does not always keep moisture from entering the gland. Especially if the rod has imperfections.
What I really hate is when you have new seals and you go to use the hoe and it’s wet and you watch the wet rod slide in and the water goes into the cylinder because the rod is dinged up, and it comes out milky.