Posted before about finding way too much fluid in the crankcase of my D4h #8PB01320. I just assumed in was diesel...but due to the thanksgiving holiday and a daughters wedding in the same week...i just didnt have time to fart around with it. Looking at it this last weekend better this time, the extra fluid in the engine oil does not smell like diesel and does not seem to be thinned down at all. Judging by the amount of extra fluid on the dipstick...im thinking a gallon or more has found its way in. (its 1 1/2 inches + over full) What ever happened...happened quickly for engine oil was changed about 6 hours ago... and oil level rose up in the last 2-3 hours or so of operation. When i checked the hydraulic oil level site glass, its now showing low where as it was full before. Ive had no leaks or hose blowouts to loose that amount of fluid that quickly. Transmission fluid level has stayed the same. So heres the question, how could i be getting hydraulic oil in my engine oil? OR is it even physically possible??? Thoughts, suggestions? Thanks
The hydraulic pump is leaking
I'm curious how a leaking hyd. pump would let hyd. fluid into the engine.
Did not take time to look into how the hyd. pump is mounted to this machine but if it is mounted to the engine, say timing cover or flywheel housing, a bad seal on the pump shaft could leak into the engine.
Or a pump mounted to a wet flywheel housing. wait.....that would overfill the tranny. NEED MORE COFFEE>>>>>>>>>>
Anybody have a teardown procedure for removing a hydraulic pump off this particular dozer? D4H cat 3204DI 8PB01320. Also can this pump be rebuilt (seals) vs. buying a reman or new? Thanks for any and all info. I still have yet to even go out and crawl all over the dozer and find where the pump is actually mounted.
My D3 also has the 3204 and the pump is mounted on the left side and driven by gears behind the timing cover. My timming cover is off here and there is a nut on the end holding the gear (upper right). There should be 2 bolts and nuts which fasten the pump, so remove them and the pump should slide out the rear
Going by S/N posted attached should be the pump:
So quickly looking over these PDFs the pump is mounted to the flywheel? How would a leaky hydro pump leak back into the crankcase from the flywheel?
Might be that way and if so, I don't see how its connected to the flywheel, the flywheel housing looks the same as mine, so don't see the room. If it is then I have no idea how hydraulic fluid makes it to the motor unless rear seal is leaking. If rear seal is leaking then the transmission fluid/oil should be getting lower Have a look and see where its located
what sux is i have a 5 day week job that takes up mon-fri and with the current time change...its dark or dusk when i get home. Since nothing gets done outside wise during the week, my weekends are taken up doing other **** (and honey-dos etc..) So the dozer sits idle. + i have a elderly parent to attend to...so my wore out Tonka Toy D4H Dozer gets no love. Hence my post...researching all i can (while at work ) so i dont have to spend hours crawling over, in and under the dozer trying to figure out whats going wrong. Please keep the suggestions and info coming Thanks again
I think the pump mounts to the flywheel housing that is wet from tranny oil so it would have to be the rear seal leaking but make sure the flywheel housing is not over full I think it is just gravity feed back to the tranny . could have a blockage in the return line. If it is pumped back by a scavenge pump check strainer to see if it is clogged
You just need to tell your woman that your going to have to move her **** down the priority list! LOL ( make sure your not within striking distance)
Yes hide all heavy frying pans or sharp objects and don't for get to mention Vetech63 when you do! Oklahoma is not far from Texas so maybe she could go "discuss it in person"!
I'm confused. First suggests timing cover mounted pump. Second says rear mounted. Can't find timing cover mounted pump in parts manual. Still haven't found my D4H. They have it around here somewhere.
I mentioned cover because we both have the same motor. Mine is mounted on the cover, and the flywheel can be used with a internal gear which runs on the internal teeth of the flywheel. When looking your motor up in SIS I can fine the pump but not it mounted to the flywheel or other. Maybe Nigel can find it
This gives me every impression it mounts on the back end, not the timing cover. Procedure is not very clear but when it says first up to remove the floor plate and the rear bottom guard it sure as hell doesn't sound like it is at the front of the engine. There isn't even an outline drawing showing what fits where.
Going by the S/N it sure looks like the hydraulic pump is driven off a gear in the torque converter housing. If that is the case leaking pump seal would push oil into the converter/transmission system not the engine. See parts break down attached: Might not be obvious at first but check the part numbers 19 and 24 there are two pump drives located on the rear of the converter housing. I'm assuming one is for the implement pump and the other is for the transmission/converter pump.
Well that confirms my thoughts above! Now just wondering if adding some oil dye to the compartment that is suspected to be putting oil into engine would be worth while to prove where the oil was coming from? Say blue dye in hydraulic and red in transmission?. Assuming engine oil is fairly fresh and clean it might solve the question. That sure would not work with an old 2 stroke Detroit!
Thanks for the photos Mark. Going the dye route I would suggest to put loads of red dye in the hydraulic tank and nothing in the transmission. For some reason, at least in my experience, the red dye seems to stain better than the blue.
That would narrow it down to what pump is leaking but I believe you will still have to replace the rear seal on the engine. I have had the rear seal cause this before
I guess if one was going to all the effort of pulling the converter to gain access to the flywheel and rear seal of the engine reinstalling either of the pumps without replacing all seals and orings in them would not be a way to save a few dollars!