Hi, im looking for some help advice on my 580b. I believe its a 1975 Diesel model based on the serial number. Ive owned it about 20 years and its served me well. Ive had atleast half the cylinders rebuilt over the years. I should add that i havent seen any other 580bs in my area that have a 3 point in the rear with a box blade. Looks factory to me. Every 580b i have ever seen has a backhoe on it. Mine does not. Anyway, when i first got the tractor i could pick up about a 800lb ballast barrel with the 3 point no problem. It may settle some every 10 minutes but worked well. Well....20 yrs later it picks up the box blade but if i work the tractor hard for 15 to twenty minutes it barely wants to pick the box blade up. Does a little better picking up if i cheat it by pulling first to levers in that 4 lever control bank. Any ideas whats causing that? Does the whole bank need to have new O rings installed? I can see that oil weeps out of the top of the main lift lever. Im assuming as the oil heats up and gets thinner its bypassing somewhere? Im just mechanically inclined enough to be dangerous...haha so i dont know if i could tackle a job of this caliber. The other issue im having is that last summer i lost the ability of having down pressure regarding the front end loader. Meaning i cant pick the tractor off the ground by extending the curl cylinders. Also the bucket will not stay in position if im trying to grade or scoop imto a pile. It just floats on top of the ground. My curl up, like curling a round bale for my cattle works but it weeps down very quickly. Main lift has good power with no issues. Is this most like a curl cylinder issue or loader control valve? Lastly, i was finally able to get the hydraulic oil canister off. This appears to be an inline filter that is on the right side of tractor just forward of the loader joystick. I have never changed it. I admit im terrible with maintenance. It is a paper element and when i removed it it had gobs of what looked like torn up paper stuck to element. The element was not wrecked that i could tell so i dont know where that stuff came from. I cant find the filter number for that specific in line hydraulic filter. Could someone let me know what the part number is? I will be changing out the filter in the pump housing again. I had a reman pump put in it about 10 years ago and last changed that filter about 3 yrs ago. Sorry for the novel but looking for that fikter number and any advice on my hydraulic issues. I would assume it could get very expensive if i have to buy a new rear control valve for three point. Tractor just keeps running and i love the box blade as i have lots of gravel roads on my property. Wanna keep the 580b going as long as i can. Injection pump is starting to leak bad to so i just dont know how much i want to stick in the tractor but when i price anything newer and cant justify spending that king of money either. Thank you for reading my novel.
Service Motor co @ Dale wi would be able to get that filter for you. As far as hydr troubleshooting, it would be best to have a pressure gauge and or flowmeter to know whats all going on. But just a guess, cylinder seals are a wear item. And wear out, and then leak down or settle or leak externally. My guess is you still have worn cylinder packings? As far as the debree in your filter? I'm also wondering if it could have lodged crap in your relief valve as well causing weak pressures? Again proper pressure/flow testing should be done. Good luck.
Welcome to HEF, AB ! Do you have the operators manual and, or service manual ?
Thank you. No i do not. I know i need to buy one so i have a better understanding of how everything is put together. Wondering which one is the best to buy? Also thanks Hydraulichec
I was curious if you have seen many 580b's with factory(im assuming it was factory maybe im wrong) box blades like mine. Usually ive only ever seen backhoes. My other question is if i ever found a rear hoe for mine that was for sale, which ones would work or if any and what would one expect to pay for a decent used one? Thank you.
AB ebay is loaded with quality reprints of owners,parts and service manuals...orrrrrr I'm sure Tinkerer is about to hook ya up digitally.....I believe it was ThePumpGuy who suggested a dollar per peek fee would make Tinkerer a very wealthy man
Lol.. THAT sounds like something I’d say.. lol
Poke and hope is still my favorite......
Back in the 60's/70's it was common to see tractors with just loaders and no backhoe but a 3 pt. hitch. There were even some models where you could switch between a backhoe and 3 pt. hitch. Box blade was the most common attachment on an industrial loader tractor. 3 pt. still works off hyd's. so could be bad seals or a pump getting weak.
I'm pretty sure the three point hitch is covered in the service manual. I gotta look some more for the operators manual. It is somewhere in my computers.
Found the link ! ---------> https://www.minnpar.com/manuals5.aspx?FName=case (cnh) manuals&SFName=cnh (case) loader backhoe manuals&SSFName=backhoe (case) 580 series parts manuals&SSSFName=CASE 580B Be sure to download the parts manual. CNH royally pooched the online parts book.
That info's gotta be worth a buck....at least to cover the NASA maintainence fee.....
Thank you for the link. I dont understand what the power beyond is in the hydraulic circuit when ive researched others post. Im assuming both control valves for loader and for 3 point are all powered by the pump up front? Ive also noticed over the years ive owned the tractor that i get a slight weep of hydraulic fluid from a 90 degree fitting that attaches to that in line hydraulic filter canister just forward of my front end loader joystick. Im wondering if there used to be a guage of some sorts on there? It looks busted off and possibly welded or ground off as if the threads from the guage broke off? Anyway....thats another leak i need to care of and find out what filter that calls for to replace it. When i took it apart it appears to me it just floats in there. Nothing holds the filter in place?
The power beyond fitting is found at the loader control valve. It is simply a fitting with a tail piece that seals an internal oil gallery that sends pressure to the backhoe control valve or in your case, the three point linkage valve. The internal oring could be blown #26 below. There are a number of different hydraulic valve/filter configurations - a machine serial number will be required to be specific. The middle pic shows the filter set up you could have - using Case D75831 filter kit Third pic is the donaldson version of D75831 (P550133) 66mm OD x 30mm ID x 180mm L The pics show different filter types - but the third pic is what I remember goes in the 580B.
Thank you ALRMAN
Thank you for the information. So am i correct that nothing really holds that filter in place? It just sits in the canister ? When i took it out there was nothing holding it in any certain spot.
The canister holds the filter in place - just be certain the filter is attached to the filter head correctly.
Ok. Thank you. The filter is smaller and narrower than the canister, atleast the one the previous owner had in there so that why i was curious. Do you just kinda push new filter up into top of housing and screw cannister on? Sorry for the dumb questions
Oh and is it best to fill canister like half full with hydraulic oil before screwing if back on or can it be dry? Thank you. Nite.
Could you post a picture of the 3 point hitch, I have seen some that used the same 3 point as an ag tractor and many were the heavy duty add on mod style hitch, If it is the Ag style it is probably fed by a separate pump and valving located in the casting under the fuel tank, If it has a separate multi section valve mounted on the RH side it is fed by The main hydraulic system the hoe uses. Just a pic of the lift control mechanism would help, As I have advised others on forum, iIf you heat the system up and hold the bucket rollback control for a minute or two the cylinder with internal leakage will get hot to the touch. very east to isolate a leaky cylinder, do it both ways as a loose bolt will allow the piston to pull back from the rod and leak by the bolt but the other way the rod will seal against the piston and the system will show no leak. Hope this helps!
Three point hitch coverage starts on page 592.
Thank you for all your knowledge and help so far
Looks factory to me. That tractor was spec'd. as a landscaper with hyd. tilt and angle on the box blade. If the 3pt. has trouble lifting I'd suspect cylinder seals first.
The main lift cylinder and one other were rebuikt last year. Still didnt help
Has all it wants to pick up box blade it seems then once it gets worked hard or hot while grading for 20 mins it barely will lift it an inch off ground if at all. Maybe in rear 4 lever control valve bank??
Is it the same way Melben explained with rear cylinders.....such as holding them for 2mins to see if they get hot to know if cylinder is the culprit?
Could be or the control valve may be leaking. Who rebuilt the cylinders? There are a few things that could cause lift problems. Do you know what oil is in it and when it was last changed? What does the oil look like? An oil sample might be a good idea to see if there's any signs of wear or contamination in the system. Not sure if there's a magnetic drain plug that could could be checked for metal filings.
I changed out fluids about 3 years ago but agree it should probably be sone yearly. I had a hydraulic shop repack / rebuild ywo of the rear cylinders last year. Made no improvements. Obviously i dont want to guess at things cuz that gets expensive. Prob have to take it somewhere where it cld be pressure tested with a guage to eliminate certains problems and find the exact cause.
Which two cylinders were resealed ? Tilt, lift, pitch or the one on the center of the box ? I hope one of them was the lift.
Main lift and pitch, ....not the side angle for crowning driveways and not the rear most which is for the scarification teeth
Might be a good idea to check the pressure for the lift cylinder.
Ok....dumb question. How is that done? Can i buy a guage of some sorts....not sure what type i'd even be looking for or how expensive they are. If i bought one does it tee into one of the hydraulic hoses on the cylinder and then measure the psi under load?
That is not a dumb question ! Below is what works for me, the few time a needed to do it. ↓ I use an oxygen tank gauge. The ones that are used in cutting torch outfits. Very cheap to buy. You can never, ever use it for oxygen after it has been contaminated with oil. Use a regular grease gun hose to tee it into hydraulic line. The longer it is the better because it, will stop oil from getting in the gauge. If the pressure is good, check the cylinder drift. To check the drift in the piston seals, connect a valve on both hydraulic lines of the cylinder. Then raise the implement and close both valves. You will easily see how much drift the seals are allowing. Doing it this way eliminates any problems in the control valve on the machine. Do NOT work the cylinder until those valves are removed. They are not designed to work at hydraulic system pressures.
Does the loader lift normally with good power, if so then as others have suggested it would be wise to check the power beyond o ring, The best advice is to follow Tinkerers advice and get a pressure gage hookup, if you check the loader main relief and it is in spec , then check the rear and it is low the power beyond o ring has failed, that is the mod hitch style so it works off the main loader hydraulics, the line from the pump to the loader control has a fitting on the outside of the loader control valve with a 1/4 inch pipe plug sticking straight out, that is where you connect your gage for main relief testing. without looking I would say that you should be looking for about 2000 - 2200 system pressure with lever held back at full throttle, a comparison between wide open and low throttle will help isolate a possible pump issue but that is best done with a flowmeter.
3000 PSI gauge is the most common for an oxygen cylinder and shouldn't be more than $15.
Thanks guys. Ill have some trouble shooting to do over the winter. Just got a small heated shop all enclosed so once i get it in there i know what to look for. Working outside is Wisconsin in winter is not always fun.