PIN# (1T0310JXPA0181993) Hi, I want to add a thumb to the ext. stick. machine is plumbed for aux hy. It has the switch on the dash and lines running up the boom. No floor switch, will I need one? I pulled the rear floormat and joystick cover. there appears to be a space on the control valve for it, it looks like the right side minus the linkage and stem. What will I need to do this? thanks rick
Welcome to HEF Rick . With an auxiliary hydraulics enable switch on the dash , it sounds like you have a ONE WAY selective flow kit installed to run a hammer ,plate compactor etc. That one way kit is generally controlled with an on/off foot switch. To operate a thumb you will need to install an auxiliary control valve section kit, 2 relief valves and a left side 2 way foot control pedal kit very similar to the right side pedal that controls the extendahoe function. Does the machine have pilot controls for the backhoe functions ? Do you plan to use the currently installed selective flow kit to operate an attachment ?
Hey Dave thanks for the welcome, It has manual 2 stick controls. I was figuring the aux would be the thumb, (if there's a better way let me know) maybe you can tell I don't know much about this! You're talking about modifying the existing control valve, (I hope) yes? I have the steel to make the thumb so it's going on if it's hydraulic or not.
thought this might help
Dave has done a great job of explaining the situation. It's an expensive upgrade. The devil is always in the details!
I’m talking about installing an additional section to the main backhoe control valve. In this case the way the control valve sections are configured I believe the swing section also needs to be replaced. I would provide part numbers but it looks like there are errors in that particular kit portion of the 310J lookup. If you’re not into that, you could install (2) manual 3 way valves on the boom and tee into the extendahoe hoses. You will need 1 relief valve as well. Or just as your suggesting ,fabricate a manual thumb.
okay scenario 1 is dead. 3 is a last resort. let's see if i understand #2- with the 2-3 way and relief valves mounted on the boom (or possibly the stick to save money on hose?) 1 function at a time would work and the foot pedal controls both?
are these the valves you're talking about? if so, this is within my budget Adjustable High Pressure Relief Valve, 20 GPM, 2500 PSI, 3/4" NPT Adjustable High Pressure Relief Valve, 20 GPM, 2500 PSI, 3/4” NPT summit-hydraulics.com Manual Hydraulic Selector Valve, 3-Way, 2 Position, 31 GPM, #12 SAE Ports Manual Hydraulic Selector Valve, 3-Way, 2 Position, 31 GPM, #12 SAE Ports summit-hydraulics.com
Welcome to HEF, rick ! I don't know if it is possible to to install your new thumb like I did. Or if you would even want to. I put a manual diverter valve in my RH stabilizer lines It works awesome. I spent less than $700.00 for everything including the hoses. I posted how I did it complete with photos a while ago in this forum. The hydraulic cylinder on the thumb matches the bucket cylinder in dimensions and pressure tolerence. Neither one can over power the other. I did not install a relief valve . The relief valve in the stabilizer control valve protects them from self destructing. In the post are details of how I had to reinforce a HD commercially made thumb. I bent two of them until I did the mods to the third one. They were originally manual thumbs. This week I have been digging up privet hedge and loading them on a trailer to haul to a burn site. The thumb makes it sooo easy to load them!
Outside view of the diverter valve. FWIW. Prolly not much.
The benefit of Tinkerers stabilizer plan is it frees up the extendahoe to function as normal. I have never heard of or seen that idea before but I like it !
Yes, that’s what I had in mind.
a lot to think about! how many gpm do I need to operate the thumb? 13gpm solenoid valve $65, 24gpm $195. I've got a lot of open switch spaces on the dash and would never have to leave the seat
You have a web link to those solenoid valves ?
It depends on how fast you want it to open and close. I don't know what the GPM mine is. But it is as fast as the stabilizer is and I really don't need it any faster than that. I can apply all the pressure the bucket has against the thumb and it will not move it. The same with the thumb, it cannot move or damage the bucket cylinder. Here is a link to my thumb installation from the beginning to the end. HeavyEquipmentForums
Thanks Tinkerer I looked for your thread and couldn't find it (I can never find anything if it wasn't attached, I'd never pee again) I saw your lever going into the cab (cool) which made think of looking for the electric valve. (I love this place) I can't use your setup the 310 is all glass dash and duct both sides. And I like the idea of teeing on the stick close to the bucket cylinder to keep new hose lengths to a minimum. where does the relief valve go in this setup? Dave here's a link to the 24gpm 6 port valve. https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Solenoid-Selector-Diverter-Valve/dp/B077BMDX5R/ref=asc_df_B077BMDX5R/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16996841529437730391&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007460&hvtargid=pla-2281435177658&mcid=6b4e2b27bc8635dd8ed6670b07d3b256&hvocijid=16996841529437730391-B077BMDX5R-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1
This is the link to my thread ————————— HeavyEquipmentForums That style of diverter valve is widely available with an electric solenoid on it. They are available with different flow rates. The higher flow rate, the hose gets bigger. Mine has 1/2” hose ports. A switch for it could be easily mounted anywhere you want it. I considered one, butI didn’t want to go through the hassle of running wires to lt.
I used the same valve and also put in a pressure relief block in for my plow for power angle and zip tied the switch to the loader stick.
Rick, Thanks for the link to the 6 port selector valve. The relief valve needs to be between the selector valve and the thumb cylinder barrel end port. You could connect the releif valve tank port to the existing auxiliary plumbing on the right hand side (when operating b/hoe) of the stick.
I see said the blind man. Thanks, Dave! Tinkerer where did you get your cylinder? what would need wires for, you don't have to leave the cab and that's what counts dude!
I don't understand what you are saying about the wires. I don't recall where I bought the cylinder. It took me awhile to find one identical to the Case OEM cylinder on the bucket. For me it was critical that they were exactly the same so that one could not over-power the other. I have pushed as hard as the thumb is capable of against the bucket, -- no bent rods or damage of any kind. The same with the bucket pushing against the thumb as hard as it can. No bent rods or other damage. Keep in mind the relief valves it in the backhoe control valve prevent any damage when I do that. Using the stabilizer circuit for the thumb eliminated any need for the installation of any relief valve like you are contemplating. I'm quite certain this is where I bought the cylinder. Seal kits are available for it if I ever need one. 4 bore x 28 stroke hydraulic cylinder, welded cross tube double acting cylinder | Magister Hydraulics 4" bore x 28" stroke cross tube hydraulic cylinder 3500 PSI. Heavy-duty hydraulics, 2-year warranty, free ground Continental US shipping. Magister cylinders manufactured using steel piston and steel threaded gland with wear rings for long life. Welded cross tube ends, honed cold-drawn tubing... www.magisterhyd.com