Hi, I just got my japanese language excavator, Yanmar vio 30-1 (5500hrs). Lubed the joints, changed the engine oil and filters and topped off the hydraulic today. 1) I have noticed that the bucket makes vibration in the solid piping on the back of the arm when curling / uncurling. Same noise and symptoms as when you push the cylinder too far. The bucket also feels slow to curl. Could this be due to air in the lines? It was worse before i topped off the tank, but hasn't gone after i topped off the hydraulic again (some other cylinders had the same problem and are now fine). How do i bleed them if this is the cause? :cool2 Next hydraulic question - 2) I feel that the unit is underpowered (dont have any references as im a newbie). using just the dipper should i be able to lift the unit up? I have to use both the boom and dipper. In addition, with the tracks (steel) if i use the 'turbo' pedal, i only get increased speed for about 2 seconds. Same with other functions, if it's run out of power and i hold back a little while it's stronger again. I'm hoping its just the hydraulic filter (new one on its way), is there any way to clean the old one in the mean time? 3) One hydraulic control (left stick) is a lot looser than the right one... Is this easy to fix myself or should i use a pro? 4) Where to i check the gear oil level in the drives?! :s 5) Steel tracks - they only sag enough to get 1/2 an inch between the idler / roller and the track when elevated - is that too tight? 6 For sure i need a thumb - i can get one fabricated here. Any suggestions of cylinder size if i make a hydraulic one? Any ideas welcome and appreciated. All my work is on a hillside, i will try to make a hillside thread with photos tomorrow. Cheers, Simon
I can't help much, but one thing I'd start with is draining hydro fluid change filter and refill with recommended fluid.
I would start witht the easy stuff first as you are (filters fluid servicing etc.) 1A - If vibration is going away after servicing of low hydraulics I would suspect air in the system. Do your filters and new fluid. Dont bother with cleaning the old one if you have a new one on it's way. Operate the machine after servicing and see if it corrects itself. If not you can crack the opposite line of pressure on the actuator to push out the air (bring a bucket and prepair to get wet, you can cover with a rag to minimize spray.) Then repeat on the oposite line with pressure going the other way. Just Google bleeding hydraulic systems. 2A - Under power can also be a symptom of air in the system (simple thing first). If servicing does not cure Q 1+2 check pressure at the pump and work your way down the system. 3A - Asuming these are pilot controls the spyder may be worn out. Remove the rubber boot/ cover and have a look. If its worn out you will most likley need to replace. 4A - Final drive gear oil is serviced from the internal hex bolts/setscrew on the outer cover of the drive filled op to the center hole (usually) Pay attention to this because the sun and planitary gears lives depend on it. 5A - Steel track tension may vary by manufacture. My Kubota KX121-2 Steel tracks call for 1.6" from bottom center idler to suspented chain on tracks. You dont want them too tight as they will stretch out of shape and cause premature wear. 6A - I too need a thumb. I hate to have to buy one but it comes down to time and material vs. cost for complete unit. I may most likley buy one because I dont have all the equipment to build without running all over hells half acre to gather up all the fabricated parts. I am not an expert just my.02c on my own experience and I wish I could spell better. Hope it helps and learn to read Japanese if you can't get a Repair manual in english, hee hee.
Thanks guys, TCM, for the gear oil, this might sound stupid, but how do i get it into those holes?! Cheers, Simon
In Canada you can buy 90W oil in a sqeeze bottle. you may have to put your thinking cap on if oil container availability does not suit your needs. Funnle, hose etc. A marine outdrive oil servicing pump will work.
So if i open the top and middle hex bolts and put in oil until it comes out that should be ok? Thanks again!
It may be that your relief valve needs adjusting, or the hydraulic pump is worn. However to properly diagnose the problem you need to check the hyd pressures.
Yep.
Just a Thought - empty and flush the drive units first - dont just top up - also filter the oil that comes out so you can see if there is metal debris - it will indicate the current wear and condition of the oil in the final drives - then refill with recommended oil. Yes - just get the middle hole in the middle and fill until flow comes out with certainty. I added Nulon to mine for gears - Teflon additive because I had success with it in moter vehicle gearboxes and diffs - quieter meant better lubrication to me. Dont work on a 'wet' slope - too much risk for me - I have sloping ground. Read some articles from this site on working on slopes - good advices mostly. Regards, MX45
Also, check up on the correct oil for the final drives also, we used to run a bunch of sumitomo 14.5t machines and used a 80W/90 oil in them and after around 500hrs the oil was pretty bad and we lost a final drive in one of the machines, turned out the right oil to use was a castrol GOJ90, after running that the oil was stay alot cleaner for longer were able to go back to 1000hr oil changes
Thanks everyone, with the drives i emptied the stinky burned up thick oily mess as much as i could and put in some new, after a couple of days i will redrain to get the rest of the crap out. With my idler problem, i will be out of action for a while now, so will bleed off the hydraulics to get the air out as it didn't come down on its own. For bleeding them the stuff i can find when i search is mostly about car breaks, i assume its much the same. I cant see any oil leaks on the hydraulic rams, but my hydraulic level has dropped from being full on the spyglass to being half full in about 10 hours. I am also getting smoke from the radiator... my guess is a leaking hydraulic cooler. Will have to take off the bodywork and dig around in there. I have noticed the unit getting stronger with the oil changes... It can travel faster and i lifted some big rocks before i broke down