Hey all. Trying to remove the engine on a hyster S50F. Can anyone tell me if the torque converter is splined or bolted to the flex plate? I can see a bolt thru the starter mount hole, but it is imposible to get a wrench or socket on it. Hoping I don't have to pull the whole drivetrain to change out the ring gear. Thx.
Welcome to HEF gkenworth. :drinkup I can't really answer your question as I haven't done one of those machine. But, in my experience with forklifts with small engines and such, I doubt the converter/flex plate is splined together, most likely it's a bolt connection. In most cases where you can see a flex plate bolt through the starter hole, yet not be able to access it, then there's another spot to access the bolts. Maybe a plug in the flywheel housing that you remove to access bolts, maybe underneath the machine as in a cover on the flywheel housing that you remove, maybe even the removal of a hyd pump that's driven by the flywheel, but there should be some access to the flex plate bolts.
I don't know which engine is in the truck, but most of the gas engines are automotive. Two very common ones in that size truck were the Mazda 2.0/2.2 and the GM 3.0 (mercruiser, based on the old 6cyl and not an iron duke). Should be just like a car torque converter. If you want an experienced answer go to forkliftaction.com/forum/, usually get the right answer straight away. ISZ
Manage to remove engine today, with T/C still attatched to flex plate. No other options. T/C was bolted to flex plate from transmision side. Thx for input.
Wow, thanks for the reply gk. So, I suppose, when you drop it back in, does the torque converter have to "notch up" with a charge pump on the nose of the tranny? Do keep us informed.
Yup Willie. The t/c will need to spline up with both the charge pump and turbine shaft on reassembly. At least the accessory drive housing is wet so no need to worry about the transmission input shaft seal. Still need to look closer at that, but that seal is internal.
I just did this job. I'm a forklift technician by trade. Defiantly a weird one. You have to use the starter to turn the engine to reseat the torque converter. Hopefully you siliconed the two halves together. Because the trans fluid drains back across the housing, after it lubes the pump chain. Hopefully you had better luck than me. I took the engine out to replace the ring gear and the cam shaft sprocket. Everything went good except some leaks, that we're a quick fix. But now, a week later, the unit stopped moving. I thought it was the solenoid, but alas, I was wrong. I think either the new torque converter or the pump has gone out. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure out which it is.
Yup. Resealed the 2 halves with 'great stuff' silicone + new gasket. No leaks. Been going strong since march with no issues. Knock on wood. Any hydraulics? If not it could be a drive chain issue driving 2 pumps. T into external Trans pump and check presures. (or was that 2nd pump just a p/s pump?).
The second pump is the trans pump. I really wish I had a service manual because I found the pressure ports on the valve body. I'm all tore up right now, because I put in a new torque converter, so I'm worried that it broke. The weird this is that I get some movement when it's cold. When it warms up, no more movement. I initially thought that it was just the solenoid, but I changed that yesterday and didn't get any change. So I may be pulling the engine again. I don't think it's the chain though, because my hydraulics still work.