I need to make it easier to climb in the grader since my legs are quite weak following a stem cell transplant. I got an idea from looking at some farm tractor steps. The steps come out at an angle so they're easier to climb than steps that go straight up. Then they have a hinge so the bottom half can fold up on the top half. They just use a rope to pull the bottom half up. I suppose a round bar could also be used to help push the bottom half down when coming out of the grader. I'd add more steps so they are closer together and easier to climb. I think some 2" channel would be sufficient for the sides. Not sure yet if if I'd have wider steps or just use rebar for the steps. I was thinking with rebar I could still use the steps when folded up if the blade was in the way. Rebar would give some grip. I'd have to watch carefully so I didn't hit them with the blade but when folded up wouldn't be any lower than the original steps.
Over the years I've saw steps evolve. The current ones I use are made with thick rubber belting for the side bars. Wider at the top, narrower at the bottom. They are very stable. Problem is they are too stable. Got my blade end into the 2nd step on the right side. Bent the metal step all to hell. Belting was too stiff and didn't let it get out of the way. As for your ideas, I'd be concerned about what happens if you get the blade into the assembly? I'd want some sort of "break away so I didn't do damage to the cab floor. Even something simple such as small sized mounting bolts. Curious to see what you come up with!!!
I find with the 2nd step suspended by wire rope it swings and makes it even more difficult to get in. I was thinking about some kind of cushion for the steps, maybe have them mounted on springs that would at least take a little bump without bending instantly. I'll look around and see if I get some idea's for some kind of break away or maybe use smaller bolts like you mentioned. It was a struggle getting in before and now after the stem cell transplant my legs are extremely weak. I haven't been out to my property since last fall but know it would be very difficult to get in the cab. Another idea I saw used an electric winch with a platform you stand on. It used square tubing sliding inside a larger tube. If I did something like this the platform could come just about to the bottom of the cab. A winch would only cost about $100. It would mount on the front corner cab post. Just had another idea. If I made the folding steps maybe they could attach with some strong magnets that would let go if hit.
My 730 had solid flat bar for the top step, and a pretty stiff cable for the lower. The Volvo has the rubber crusher belt like stuff. It does catch the blade. Seems to me the cable on the champion was really close to the wheels when fully articulated
The cable still flexes and it's harder to climb straight up than on an angle like a ladder. The 2 steps are also a good distance apart and I really have to pull myself up by the handles. I'd like to try and design a spring loaded kind of breakaway that would move if the blade hit it. Maybe a double swivel that would swing out and swing back.
I think I came up with a decent idea. Have the steps fold in half and at about 30 deg. out from the cab. Then mount the step just outside the cab and have a hinge on the back corner towards the tandems. Then use a stiff spring to hold the steps in place or tighten the hinge so it has some resistance. With the steps angled out from the cab, I think the steps would fold back upward and backward if they got hit by the blade. The steps wouldn't be lower than the original steps. They'd just be angled out from the cab. Now I just have to try and draw some pics. of my idea.
I think I have the design mostly figured out but hoping someone can help me with figuring out where to put the swivel. The steps will pivot on a shaft and I found a 175lb. spring that I think will work good to hold the steps straight. The steps will be 9 or 10 inches wide. If the pivot was in the middle the steps would hang straight down. If I put the pivot at the end of the step I think the spring would extend and the steps would swing down some when getting on. I'm thinking of having the pivot 2-3 inches off center so the spring will hold the steps stable when getting on but move if hit with the blade. I'd have to make the steps strong enough to sustain getting bumped by the blade, maybe 250lbs. before they folded up. If someone has an educated guess on how much to offset the pivot would be greatly appreciated?
Take a look at the steps on my Champion grader. The bottom section can flex with the cable.
I have the factory steps with the cable. I explained earlier in this thread why I need a different type of steps. Getting in the grader with the factory steps takes a huge amount of energy. You basically have to pull yourself up. The step on the cable still swings which makes it even more difficult and it's about 2 1/2 ft off the ground. If I was perfectly healthy it wouldn't be a problem. I don't know if I'll ever get all my strength back but right now it would be a real struggle for me to get in the grader. The Dr. said it takes a long time to build back muscle mass. I'm eating pretty good but can't seem to gain any weight. I'm stuck under 150lbs. I used to weigh about 172lbs.
James, what's the purpose of the cable? Or what's the purpose of the flatbar at the front of the step? They seem to contradict each other. Thanks.
I'm guessing who ever ran it before me didn't like the flex in the cable so they welded the flat steel in to make it stiff. They are a bit of a climb for short older guys like me and Dave short on strength at the moment.
The cable steps are to far under your cab which causes the problem you are having getting into your grader, gives you the rope ladder affect, having them mounted on the outside surface of the cab may work better also, the cable design was used in case the blade came in contact with it it would flex enough not to get tore off, I found on my old 730 the steps were to narrow and caused more strain with less footing, Cat has the thick rubber sides with wider steel steps for better footing and leverage and less movement getting into the cab, they are mounted on the outside of the cab, if you could find a set or just one side off a parted out 140h it would mount nicely to your cab, I think you would find that alot better, Just a thought, hope this helps.
The steps are under the cab on a 730 Champion. 140H steps would be better but still fairly high off the ground. My design would fold in half and come down to about 18 inches off the ground. The angle would put them about 18 inches outward from the cab so they would be more like going up a step ladder. I was looking at tractor steps and they are wider with most about 4 1/2 inches. I think even 3 inches would be better. You can buy weld on steps to mount on the risers but I'm not sure how expensive they are. I don't want to spend too much building the steps. There are several ways I could make the steps though. I'll have look at the cost options.
How about a stairway pivoting from the cab level towards the tandems at the rear. A landing platform to extend the stair past the wheels. Use a hydraulic cylinder to lift the stairway horizontal to the cab level. Then it's out of the way of the blade. Use the machine hydraulic system to lift the stairs. If you start with an aluminum step ladder, the weight and fabrication would be manageable. Cheap would be a rope to pull the stairs up. Middle cost would be a winch to lift the stairway
It will pivot at cab level towards the tandems and because it's angled out will swing up and back. Folded in half will only be about 21 inches down from the cab. I thought about using a 12 volt linear actuator to fold it up but think just using a rope would be the simplest way to go. Hooking into the grader hyd's. would be more complicated and expensive. It would also require the engine to be running. There could be times when you want to move the step with the engine off. I'll make it out of steel. Weight isn't a big factor.
Would like to see what you come up with, please post some pics when you get it finished, it may help others with the same issue, thanks
Early JDs used cables. As a young man, in a hurry, it was easy to smack your shin on the upper step. They stayed out of the way, but weren't easy to use.
It won't be for a while but for sure I'll post some pics. I saw a few steps people had made for tractors but thought there would be more. There has to be some handicapped and/or limited mobility farmers and equipment operators. I'm also kind of surprised the manufacturers of graders and other equipment haven't put a lot of thought into making it easier to get into their machines. Cost difference would be insignificant on a 500K machine.
The steps for a 24 cat would work. Be a lot of fabricating though. A step behind the rear tandems could be as low as you needed. You could put another solid step below the one on the chain case, walk on top of the chain case, and have a cat walk outside the cab. As long as it was lower than the door, and able to clear the tires if you climbed over something. Really all you would need is one more step at the back, or 3 between the wheels, a handle on the engine cover, and a length of floor grating along the outside of the cab.
Look at some large combine steps. Some of them pivot like you are thinking. Google aftermarket combine steps and that should get you going.
I. Saw some fold up tractor and combine steps. I also want them to pivot back if they got hit by the moldboard. I don't think they'd be too difficult to make. I'm trying to figure out where they need to pivot in relation to the return spring. They need to be solid to climb but move if bumped. I'm not sure if the articulation works or if I'd use it much but don't want the steps to interfere if the articulation works. Having a cat walk along the side seems a bit much and could be in the way when working on the grader.
This looks simple? Couple pieces of strut, some trolley rollers…
Good thoughts Dave. Maybe you could do something like that ladder above, and tip it clear up against your doorway so the lower end could not contact the moldboard. Tip it not roll it, to get it up out of the way. I can relate to the cable hung steps being a bummer.
The steps can't interfere with the door. I thought about making them slide up but think having them flip up would be simpler.
You would only need a cat walk outside your door. As long as you can step from your tire to the platform. I go from tire to door all the time if I am cleaning the windows. The space between your 2 back wheels should be enough for actual steps. The lowest one could be flush with the outside of the tire, the next one a bit father in and so on. Nothing can hit them in there with what you plan on doing with the machine. From the top of the chain case, or tool box, step on the tire, then onto the platform by the cab. You could weld the steps to the chain case cover, so you can still unbolt it if you need to. Seems to me there is more room between the tires than the step at the rear to get to the fuel tank. It would actually make it easier for you to get to the fuel tank as well.
wrong grader, but between the tires, you might even go lower than the bottom of the chain case. from the battery or tool box depending what side, step onto the tire, then your platform could be below the door, wouldn't have to be very wide. just keep it ahead far enough that the tire won't hit it when the chain case pivots up if you drive over something. Be easier to get up and fuel as well
I occasionally will find myself entering the grader from the tandem drives. It's a bit of a balance challenge to walk on top of the tandem drive or even on the tires. Biggest hurdle is trying to open the door from the rear. But with a "catwalk" it would be simpler.
When I say cat walk, I'm meaning something 6 or 8 inches wide. He has to get up there to fuel up anyway. Not sure of his tire size, but on my old 730, there was enough room between the tires for a step. If he's only doing work on small scale, I would say that would be an area of least disruption. Plus, actual steps would be easier to climb than a ladder. Up the steps to fuel, or enter the cab. I also assume that the adapters he had made for his new wheels might set the tires out farther, giving more room. I'm interested in his idea for something spring mounted, but I also have the step idea in my own mind. A set of full stairs over the back wheel, with a patio like cat walk over the tires right to the cab would be great, but not practical. Walking on the tires is fine for some, but can be slippery at times if you are not at your best. I'm sure whatever he comes up with will be fine.
If handicapped I'm not sure I could walk a 6-8" catwalk from the tandems to the front of the door opening. Then not sure I could bend over and reach the door handle which is at the bottom of the door?
When I eventually go out to my property I'll have to do a bunch measuring to see what would work the best and be the easiest. Fueling up is a bit of a pain though. It would be nice if it had on ground fueling.
Yeah, Volvo moved the fuel tank to where the hydraulic tank is. No more climbing to fuel.
Deere used to have the fill cap on top. I never thought much about it. Was a younger man then and just never thought about it. When we traded into a G model with ground level fill I couldn't believe how much easier that was!!!! It's at the rear of the engine compartment on the drivers side. Has a swinging door covering the cap. If I run a long day in bad conditions ice will build up on the door and I can't get it open. I keep a rubber mallet at the fuel barrel to knock the ice off without causing any damage. Now with DEF that's even more of a problem. Now I have two doors to deal with.... But I like the tank being protected.
So Volvo actually did something useful for Champion graders. I might have to put a longer hose on my slip tank. I haven't had to fill the machine yet other than putting 3 10 litre jerry cans in it. It would have been too hard for me to carry a 20 or 25 litre jerry can up there and then lift it up to fill the tank. I think if I fill the tank it will last a while being 100 gallons. Champion appeared to have larger fuel tanks than other brands on the older machines.