Not sure how it happened but it did so what is the fix. I thought I could chase the threads with a tap and be ok but now there's an oil drip from the plug. I didn't replace the crush washer but never have in the past. Could I silver solder the threads and cut them again? Thanks
Usually the threads do NOT seal on drain plugs, the only sealing surface is the crush washer whether it be nylon,copper or something else... in fact the manufactures always say to replace crush washers whenever the plug is R&R'd. Is there a chance you chased the threads off angle to the original bore??? what kind of tap did you use? size,class, and type?
Agree with Ronsii, why not try replacing the crush washer? That is why they use them to seal the plug to the oil pan, assuming it is the oil pan plug you are talking about.
I should have added.... I have seen drain plugs with pipe plug threads on some equipment.... but they never have provisions for a washer
I thought the crush washer was just a backup. The tap I believe was a 7/8 - 14. I will check this tomorrow. Came by the tap size from the new drain plug (didn't have a new washer available at the time). I do have a new washer waiting until I drop the oil.
7/8-14 is a straight/parallel thread not a taper thread like pipe threads use so they become tighter as you thread them in to seal.
So, were the original threads taper or straight? IH parts sheet didn't indicate it was pipe thread.
I don't think you can find an off the shelf 7/8-14 tap in pipe taper...
So you think the tap should have been a taper?
No sorry , I guess I should have been more clear in my answer.... there is no 7/8-14 thread made that has pipe taper. You would have to cut one yourself or have a machinist make one special for you. 7/8-14 is a straight thread designed for fasteners not sealing that is why there is a flange for the sealing washer on the plug.
Sometimes in a tough situation its better to find a softer washer to seal better and possibly squish into some misalignment than a copper or metal one
7/8 x14 threads won't even notice if the washer is copper or aluminum. I wouldn't put a plastic washer in there, or use an o-ring anywhere there isn't a space for an o ring. If it's copper, then it's work hardened and you should get a new one, or anneal the old one. If it's aluminum then it's squished too flat and distorted, so get a new one.
New washer is in the toolbox. Would be great if that would be the fix. Thanks to all for taking the time to to comment. I think I know a little bit and then I find out I don't know much at all!
howdy neighbor you can buy expandable drain plug replacements or plugs that kinda cut their own threads not sure where in order to get your size I agree with putting a washer under it
If you hook your shop vac up to the suck bucket and it to the blow by tube, you may be able to do the quick switcheroo of the crush washer. The vacuum should hold the oil in the pan with only a small amount lost.
Howdy back at you motoOzarks! I'm west of Tilsit couple of miles. Repowerguy - that is a great idea and time to try it out this weekend. Been running with the drip but it's aggravating. Thanks to both for taking time to offer assistance. Let you know how it goes.
I have good luck with using a metal/rubber washer that comes with air filters .You can get them in different sizes and they are beveled a bit so it will crush down .Never had a problem with a leak from them .
I have been at other things and not tried the suck bucket yet so I may look for some type of washer like this. Thank you.
The size you be looking for would be used on large air compressors like Sullair 75o and larger .They called bonded washers .I have them around here ,If I find it I can send you one .
Like these
Try a bonded seal for bspp / metric port fittings. Maybe with a flange headed bolt
I need a translation for this. 'bonded seal' & 'BSPP'?
I believe what is being suggested is a Dowty seal. Just an example see this link, any good hydraulic shop should have or be able to get them: https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/Bonded_Seal_Buna_BSP_Metric_p/9500.htm?1=1&CartID=0
Yes that is what they look like .
That's impressive. Thank you both. Sounds like something NAPA might have.
I've used both kinds of those bonded rubber washers, never heard them called Dowty seals before... learn something new everyday the last ones khansen posted about will seal on both sides of the washer while the first kind rely on the rubber compressing around the bolt shaft for complete rubber sealing.
Yes 1/2 bspp (term) is just short of 7/8" (actual)
Thank you.
We had a honda car that striped i rethreaded it and it looked good but it leaked so now we drain it let it drip out and scilicon the plug. I have also used thread tape. I worked in a gas station after school 30 years ago i hated fords they had the cheapest drain plug setup ever. If i had the pan off a ford i would weld in a better drain hole.
Thanks.
Would like to resurrect this from the dead file and the reason is I am so very slow! I put off replacing the drain plug until I had enough time to drop the oil because I wanted to see if the pickup tubing was somehow plugging up with trash. On engine start, oil pressure is 10 to 12 seconds to build. The inside of the drain pan and pickup tube is extremely clean in my opinion so that rabbit hole is empty. The other reason to remove the pan was to replace or fix the cross threaded drain hole. After I had the oil removed, I could tell it wasn't the crush washer allowing the oil leak but the fact that I chased the wrong set of threads! When I ran the tap to clean out the threads from being cross threaded, I got in the wrong set of threads and this caused the bolt to be angled enough the washer could not seal such a goof! Machine shop is working on that now as I checked the scrap yards for a different pan and they were in as bad or worse shape than this one. Now how should I proceed? Replace the oil pump? It's probably the next logical step and I don't even know where it's at but I think it may be in front of the injection pump. How big of a job would this be and what will a pump cost? Thanks for your time and opinions.
Do not recall you mentioning what engine this machine has in it. As to were it is located just follow that pipe the suction screen is mounted on and the other end should be connected to the pump. Before condemning the pump I would want to be sure the slow build up of pressure is real. Could be a bad sender if it is an electrical gauge, then again it could be the gauge it's self. If a "mechanical gauge" could be a restriction in line from engine to the gauge or again a bad gauge! The way I would be checking the pressure would be to install a known good gauge directly in the oil galley of the engine and see how fast and what pressure you get. One important plan of attack for any repairs or trouble shooting is to be cheep and lazy! By that I mean do the easy things first, in other words those that cost nothing or very little. And next do the things that require the least amount of work or parts removed. To jump right to the idea of replacing a pump is not the way to approach this problem!
remove the SENDER & back-blow the hole w/ shop air & see whatcha get out of the pick up screen??
Nice tractor. I put quite a few hours on one pulling a field cultivator that a friend of mine owned. He had it set up for tractor pulling competition. It blew a huge cloud of black smoke ! One tough engine !
Why didn't anyone recommend an expandable rubber "core plug".?? The kind w/ a T handle that gets tighter the more u turn the T.. like a boat "plug".. They make'm in all sorts of sizes..
Okay that helps, appears oil pump is inside front cover of engine, would not consider replacing with out being 101% sure it was bad.
Pumpguy, that might get raked off. I try to not be hard on equipment but in the brush mowing and moving over / piling up fence rows - stuff happens. Beaver chewed off about a 3" sappling and left about 12" sticking up / front tire missed it but the rear didn't survive. Had a limb puncture a battery once. Stuff like that. I do like the idea of back blowing the tubing..... Thanks and will certainly entertain any other ideas.
Kshansen, that picture helps a lot! I can see where the pickup tube attaches to the engine block. Right under the front main bearing. I still never saw the pump. The harmonic balancer is just in front of this attachment. More inspection to come later today. Thank you all.
Take another picture with camera pointing towards the front of the engine and I'm sure someone can point to the pump.
Pumpguy, the tubing feeding the pressure gauge is plumbed off the side of the engine block.(rear right). I did backblow through the tubing (it's very small diameter) and didn't notice anything in the crankcase. kshansen suggested putting in a trustworthy gauge to verify pressure. Someone else also stated this would be prudent and I never did because as soon as oil pressure is indicated - engine noise quiets down - every time.
Pushed the wrong button somewhere! Had intended to attach a picture of the connection of the pickup tube to the engine block. It is directly below the front main bearing. You can see the crank pully / main bearing / connecting rod
Well looking at that picture more or less confirms what I expected the pump is part of the front cover. If you are convinced the pressure problem is a bad pump(I'm not there so can't be sure), then to remove and inspect the pump you will need to first off remove the front pulley. I am not familiar with the way the engine is mounted in tractor so have to wonder if there is an engine mount that is attached to the front cover. If so you will have to deal with that as well.
Maybe I missed that part before! What "engine noise" are you referring to and when did it start making this"noise"? And how much have you run this engine while it was making "noise"? Just have to wonder if the slow to show oil pressure is because there is some major wear in bearings of the engine. Might pay to inspect the main and rod bearings while pan is off. Remember wear on the mains will be worse on the lower halves and on the upper halves for the rods.
Tractor is back together. Cross threaded oil drain plug is repaired and holding! Found this comment on the skid steer section - someone removed a horizontal filter and no oil came out. It did clarify how some filters have a built-in check. Want to thank you all for your time and patience. It is still slow to pickup but I am going with probably age related and not concern so much about it. I have two different people think it's probably ok.
You have many many great posts but I do not like that idea.
Yes the pump is over the noise of the crank. It slides right off after removing the front of the tractor and the front cover.
I timed mine after overhaul and that other post. It is about the same as yours. It has always hammered lightly until it gets oil pressure. The correct filters have a steel tube inside the threaded hole. That helps retain some oil. Book spec for oil pressure is only about 35 PSI hot at operating speed.