I am rebuilding my Stanadyne DB2-4499 injection pump due to the flex ring failing. The new one’s bolt circle is maybe .125” a side smaller, am I supposed to stretch it over the pins? If so is it ok if I heat it up? I think I might set it on the heated bed of a 3D printer. Is there anything else I need to look out for when rebuilding this? I saw someone said the pilot bushing in the housing gets a groove in it from the driveshaft seals (their name escapes me at the moment) and they will leak diesel into the crankcase, I have diesel in my oil and there is a groove in the pilot bushing. Is the part number for a replacement db2 pump pilot bushing 16320? Is the original part epoxied into the housing? Could I just bore out the existing bushing until it cleans up and reuse it? I think I’d have to take out .020”. For reassembly the book mentions a very expensive piece of test equipment I don’t have access to. I set the engine to TDC and marked the pump through the window before I removed it. Is all I have to do is re align the marks while putting it back on the engine? I have not removed any adjustment screws that I know of, I am just following the Stanadyne manual and a YouTube video.
Hi. the guy you need is our resident master injector pump rebuilder "The Pump Guy" hopefully he will be along shortly
Ok I got the flex ring on, made a tool for it and it worked pretty well. That leaves the question of if I can bore out the pilot bushing or not and what else do I need to be careful of when I reassemble it. Oh, are there extra o rings in the gasket kit? Seems like WAY more are in there than what is on the pump. The tool I used is below. Its just one of those Torx bits you get in a box of screws. Grind the driving end to a dull point and the other end flat. Shove the pointy end in the back side of the hole, a socket helps. Flip the bit around and hold the flat end to the pin (When you get to the weight basket put it in a vise). Push the ring down over the pin with a deburred screwdriver (NO BURRS!!!). I also marked the alignment line on the top so I couldn't misalign the parts.
All u needed was a small pair of snap ring pliers. Insert into hole on flex ring & open wide enough to slip over pin.. U have to replace the pilot tube.. Think about it this way.. U already have fuel in the oil.. & that groove is less than.020” Yes they are epoxy’d in.. U have to take a blue wrench & heat it until the epoxy lets go.. The protrusion is critical so measure the old one before removing..
The 2 part epoxy we use in the industry & the only one approved by the pump manufacturer costs 70.00 a set.. but feel free to use what you want.. There are A LOT of extra O-rings left over in the kit.. regardless of what kit u buy.. It looks like from your pic that there are several rivets that are broken off.?? May just be the angle.. WHY didn’t u install the updated weight retainer.?!!! Unless your planning on selling the machine after u use it, u fkd up.. You’ll be redoing this in a few years...
Ah! Didn’t think about snap ring pliers. So JB weld then, gotcha... That was only one side of the weight retainer. I thought the one piece weight retainer is more for engines that run at a constant speed, would it be ok for a backhoe (JD 210C)? That’s not a problem, I have to order the bushing anyways, I can order the one piece retainer also. But why would the replacement flex ring fail after a few years when the OE one lasted 30?
What kit did u get.?? What weight retainer n p tube are u ordering.??
30 years ago they didn’t have any of the additives in the fuel like they do now.. I’ve seen pumps come in that have 1 month on them, that the f ring is soft & mushy.. Could be additives in the fuel.. could be the stuff the customer put in the tank.?? While I’m on the subject, ONLY follow the bottles directions.!! TO MUCH IS NOT BETTER.!!!
Here is the seal kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TN23ZB3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Pilot tube is 16320 Here is the weight retainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XH8ZKQB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ksFKEbYJKR2EY
The links wont come up for me.. how about posting the P# to keep u outta trouble.. 1 other thing.. did u pull the "vent wire" before removing the head from the main hsg.?? IF NOT, look in the housing for a very deep scratch.. to the left of the metering valve hole.. If it there.?? u just bought a new pump hsg..
Weight cage 29111 seal kit Spaco 12459 I took out the vent wire before. Followed the book.
IDK what spaco # that cross's to.?? but u needed a 24373.. Wt cage is correct & so is the P. Tube. How about a new return connector & oring.?? just because u cant SEE any debris in it, doesnt mean its opening up all the way.. I guess u could try it.. & if it doesnt start, pull the connector off & see if it starts.. U hafta swap over the timing line from the old retainer to the new.. if u give the vendor the pump # or timing line *.. they might stamp it for ya..befor sending it.. & give that epoxy 24 hrs to set-up before introducing diesel fuel to it.. Dont let the epoxy drip/drain into the inside of the p. hsg... Good luck
24373 yup. Could the pieces from the old flex ring clog up my injectors? I’ll pull the return line off and clean it out. Should I take the tank fuel filter out and clean it also? That flex ring really made a mess...
BTW> the end plate/nose cone torque, is critical.. as is, the delivery valve stop screw.. Lube the oring for the "nose cone" liberally and smear some lube on the threads, then torque. The flex ring cant make it to the injectors.. only plug the return line.. I wouldnt take the tank out for flex ring bits.. BUT if your experiencing water and rust along side the bits, sure take it out & clean it.. Just keep a couple of filters on hand incase of low power..{flex ring in filter}
Ah ok, book said to hand tighten the nose cone. I torqued the delivery valve to the 85-90 in-lb the book said to. I ordered those parts, thank you so much for your help!
U "hand tighten" UNTIL u read more.. U cant very well torque the cone w/ the the assembly on the bench.. Time to go enjoy the sunshine.. u fellas stay warm & safe..
Ah ok thanks!
I got that pump all together a while ago, it works great! Thank you so very much for your help.
Bought a dead 580D backhoe so I am going the cheap route until running and know what else I got. Held the ring down on the inside with flat end of a pick. Rolled t a 2nd straight pick around the rivet with the angle of the pick leaning away from rivet. Went well after getting the hang of it. Went very poorly before that. Also, grease trick to remove stuck valve does not work on older head with side line connections. Acetone overnight and a sharp wrap on a block of wood did.