Can anyone tell me what callerbrating fluid is made out of and if it will turn to jelly in a pump or squirters if left sitting to long ?
I don't know the answer to your question, but interestingly enough I was at our local Bosch pump shop today and thinking it's remarkable that you can smell that unique calibrating fluid smell two streets away and wondering what was in it?
I'm not sure what its made out of..I guess I could pull the MSD sheet on it, if it is really important.. It will not gell in my experience.. I'v had reman pumps on the shelf for years that were as fresh as the day they came off the test stand.. and those had been drained of cal. fluid, with just the residual left inside.
Here's the Data Sheet. It's a REALLY light mineral oil, but on the face of it nothing special apart from the extremely low viscosity. It's about 1/3 of the viscosity of a 10-weight hydraulic oil. http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/F...FB750802577E0005BB19F/$File/BPXE-8BGMVA_0.pdf
Thank u all. The reason for me asking is I'm doing a ground up overhaul on a 75series Toyota land cruiser engine being a 1hz which is a 4.2 liter precomp mech injection diesel strait 6 spent 15k on the eng alone and that's trade price the eng has been assembled for about 14 months now and I haven't fired it up yet and I am getting scared about it sitting so long particularly worried about the pump and squirters on the books the injection alone would have been worth 8k. Also concerned about the rings sitting in one spot that long and the plain bearings not being rotated for that long. Spent 45k so far about 20k will finish it ( about another nine months ) am wondering even though the car is not ready to drive if should tip some oil in bleed the fuel system put some power to the pump and fire it up. But if I fire it up with no load on it I run the risk of glasing the cylinders not sure what to do maybe the more experienced minds on here could help me come to a conclusion. Regards cam
You must be very fond of this vehicle, 65k will almost get you a new cruiser with a V8 diesel. You should post some pics sometime. Cheers, Greg
Hey Cam. When I mentioned I was at the pump shop, I was collecting the pump for my latest little side-project. 1990 HZJ75 Landcruiser. If you're worried about the long term storage of your engine, I would suggest overfilling the sump with oil to the level that the crank is half submerged and then rolling it over by hand several times, maybe once a month. When you go to start it for the first time, fill the sump to the correct level, pre-fill the oil filter, (one of the few times I would recommend doing this), disconnect the fuel solenoid and crank it over until it registers oil pressure. If you're really paranoid, you could rig up some sort of pre-lube pump system, but personally speaking, I wouldn't bother.
In the beginning this is what she looked like b4 I pulled her down. The reason she came apart is where the bracket for the clutch pedal bots on to the firewall a complete piece pulled out of the fire wall I had fiber glassed up the floor pan once b4 ( rust under the evaporator ) and instead of pulling the pedal box out and welding a patch in ( what I should have done ) I made the decision to completely dismantle and fix properly and then the project to end em all started.
On the way down
the bloke in the flanny n board shorts that's me
Thank god 4 zippi ties and snap loch bags
I've got some really good picks on the camera but I'll have to get a mate to show me how to get em off the camera and on here. They show me lifting the tub off ( bottom half of cab ) the freshly painted chassey arfter sand blasting of course and all sorts of good stuff. The body is back on now the eng in the gear box in and lots more I'll get those picks up as soon as I can. I diddent think anybody would b interested in a Toyota build on this site
Maybe you should start another thread in the transportation section?
Am I allowed to take up 6 with picks and detailed info on the build. If so and people are interested let me know and I'll get it up. As a quick overview she has been down blasted painted and every single piece has been apart and back together with lots of new upgrade bits and goodies. The front diff has a new arb air locker, carriers, collapsible spacer, flange I was Abel to reuse the original crown wheel and pinion I had the local specialist assemble the banjo ( diff center ) the reason being he has the special vice and the set up to hold the dial gauge the measuring equipment dummy axels and so on to make sure everything is running true and wearing even. I prepped and painted the housing myself did every piece separate and assembled so the car. 2 new axels and cv joins supplied by repco genuine inner axel seals koyo pivot bearings ( king pins ) re used the outer swivel hub housing arfter a dip in the hot tank prep and paint re used the backing plate 4 the brakes prep and paint also same with the hubs but gave her a new set of free wheeling hubs ( the two outer pieces lock and free ) New rotors new pads and even a new set of calipers ( if u gunna make it go u gotta make it wo ) Sat the reman diff in on new 2 inch lifted springs heavy duty of course ( EFS ) new u bolts new heavy duty shakels pins n bushes. The steering was next the sector shaft in the steering box was rooted and the housing was a bit sad so a brand spanker from Toyota was put in along with new bolts genuine drag links and a set of snake racing tie rod ends the arms where ok arfter a run down to the local shop and some time spent gettin freaky with the press. New genuine ps hoses. New old man emu nitrous shocks and steering damper. About 7 grand on the front end alone. Next the gear box and transfer case grrr this mongrel bot had already been out 4 times and still wasn't right so I craked a rumpy and sent it of to Newcassel in NSW
I don't know what happend to the rest of the last post I'll get some picks sorted out and have another go
Good idea, now that you've let the cat out of the bag Cmark , we will need to be kept up to date with your project as well! Cheers, Greg
Ok I'll start another thread in transport I'll get all the picks sorted first. In show time or tucks? Build off anybody?
Ha ha. Well if Cam starts a 'Cruiser thread showing his build, I'll try to post a few snaps of my own resto as well, although don't expect anything too schmexy from my effort. Mine is only a restore to daily driver standard, mainly for old-time's sake. Cam. Looking forward to your new thread. :thumbsup:
Well there is a few picks for everybody to drool over. Now the gear box what a nightmare it went to Newcassel was stripped down and put in the hot tank ( acid dip ) and the list started to grow. Started off with a new main input shaft an arfter market one with a longer spline all new sinkroes and a complete new second all new bearings koyo all new seals n gaskets new detent springs a new 5th both of em arfter market a bit wider to stop it jumping out of gear new reverse the forks were good so they went back in. The transfer case was even worse a new main bevel gear pin and needle rollers bearings gaskets seals flanges and switches just to name a few. A cote of nice slut red a new mount a few new bolts and nilock nuts and we sat her back in Oops there goes 7 grand.
Now arfter a good day or so spent polishing the bell housing and a full new set of rubbers waiting to go on the real fun began the eng. Arfter I pulled the eng down I found it was in really good nick and decided to overhaul it properly I cleaned it up as best I could and had my old workshop foreman come over to help with some basic measuring just to c exactly what I had. I then loaded her up and took her down to a local work shop with a hot tank ( acid dip ) big enough to cope. I know him so it only cost me 2 boxes of grog. Then took it all off to the eng builder for the machiening to b don The crank was sent off to b dressed and polished the block was decked and all cilinders boarded out 10 thow a really kick ass set of con rods bought along with some really good pistons. The pistons had to b milled down and all the deck highs reset at .05 every ring gap is perfect. All new big ends ( obvisually ) and mains. I had the fly wheel faced supplied a new harmonic balancer and had the lot sent off to brissy to b blueprinted and balanced. I now had a rotating assembly.
It's getting late more tomorow
Sweet ride! I'm a huge toyota fan, currently building an 81 4x4 pickup. Keep the picture coming
I love Cmark's second pic in post #7. If people around here would do that every week, then their Toyota frames wouldn't look like tin cans after a few winters in the salt. And thanks for the suggestion on overfilling the sump for storage. I suppose you could even disable the engine and crank it that way every now and then, and until there was oil pressure then drain out the extra before you start it.
Yair . . . Cam85 . . . . and to think I thought you were a smart young bloke (big grin). Seriously though that is an awful lot of seat hours to lay out on an old 75 series . . . I suppose you can look at as an investment to pass on to your kids. The old dungers are certainly reliable but were a lot of money for what you got . . . those 50 hour oil changes on the Jap precom. diesels is what got up my nose. All my life diesels ran 250 hour oil changes, the Cats and the Jimmies and the Fords and the Leylands and the Fergis and the BMCs it was just standard in my part of the world that they did 250 hours and then I bought a Nissan and they tell me 5000 miles . . . which is just 50 hours . . . the freaking Briggs and Stratton on the lawn mower gets by on that. The thing is they really mean it. Those rotten things can soot the oil up so bad I have seen a bloke at Mitchell with the sump of a Tojo giving it an oil change with a paint scraper . . . two frosty mornings parked at the motel and the oil had changed to jelly. Anyway rant over . . . it sure looks pretty. Cheers.
Were you averaging 100mph Scrub..? Because that's how I see the numbers. To me 5000 miles at an overall average speed of say 25mph would give 200 hours between oil changes, or am I missing something..?
Yea Scrub it think it's all the sun ( zit zit crack of the the neck I'm special really special ) ha ah ha. In all honesty I was never going to go this far but I got on the tread mill and now I can't get off its a bit hard to do so much and not go a bit further. Tonight Ime going to b doing the write up on the head and all the bits n pieces on the eng if anyone wants to know also wondering is u guys are happy with the amount of detail if u guys want more just say so. But some tricks I'll take to grave. Nige as a fitter what do think of my handiwork so far the best is yet to come
Yair . . . Nige . Sorry mate I got twixt up with my units . . . supposed to be kilometres and yes the speed limit here is 100 kays and on the blacktop in the western flat country between towns its not hard to average close to that. I could be wrong but I think all the Japanese indirect injection diesels of that era were five thousand kay oil changes . . . I put a centrifuge on the 2.7 Navara and scraped a cupful of crud out every couple of thousand and ran it out to ten. The early Toyotas came out with centrifuges but no b*****d knew what they were and Toyota discontinued them . . . they were built into the tappet cover of the 6000 trucks and I think some of the Cruisers, later ones (in PNG anyway) were plumbed with hoses. The current crop of common rail jobbies I think are mostly out to ten thousand with a few eurodiesels out to fifteen thousand kays on the oil. Cheers.
Maint. schedule for 1HZ motor recommends 10000 km oil change interval with a reduction to 5000 km for vehicles working in " severe operating conditions". These include most conditions it was designed for - dusty roads, towing, extensive low speed driving and a few others. There would be thousands of these motors still going strong that don't get this level of attention. The current model has 4.5 litre V8 diesel with a 20000 km interval and no reduction for operating conditions. This motor may not be as forgiving of a reduced maintenance program though. Cheers, Greg
This seems a bit of a hijack, but my opinion on drain intervals is I'm doing 200 hrs no matter what the manufacturer says. Oil is cheap, and with these engines nowadays designed to foul the oil with soot, I'll choose to keep the oil clean. My trucks go 12-15K miles, depending upon how much idling they've done.
Yair . . . Thanks for the heads up Queenslander I was not aware of that. Cheers.
The book on the 1 hz states oil th 5000 and oil n filter at 10000 personally I do both every 5 religiously they are a sooty eng and in my experience most repair work could have been prevented for the want of proper servicing and maintenance it all starts with the basics clean car clean oil clean fuel clean air. At a later date I will write up my own list on how I maintain my gear.
Now back to the build the head had much the same treatment as the bottom end completely dismantled and dropped in the acid when it came out I sprayed it down with die and ran the light over it all was good a full set of pre comps was ordered and a full set of valves really good ones along with springs collets and retainers to match the buckets where good so they went back in 4 a another round ( I had the valves machined so the shims are all the same the idea behind that this should make future valve sets easy ). The cam shaft had the same treatment as the crank. I had a Full three way valve grind along with the head being milled and the head itself reassembled by the eng builder as well as vacume / pressure tested just to b sure. Now the head was ready I oiled her up and wrapped it up in glad wrap and about 3 blankets to keep it safe whilst I was getting the rest of my parts organised. A full set of welsh plugs was ordered along with a genuine rear main front main and cam seal. A new set of timing gears and oil pump came all the way from japan ( $1500 on there own ) a new water pump and timing belt along with a thermostat and even got the thermostat housing blasted and the o ring surface machined the same on the top water spout. The outher bolt on housings on the front where cheaned and I polished em to a high shine by hand the intake manifold and plenum chamber was chemically cleaned and polished and genuine gasket seals to go with the straws where blasted and ceramic coated in red ( there was nothing wrong with em but I wanted red ) the oil cooler was chemically cleaned and the outer housing I had 2 have it blasted to get the stains off a new genuine oil pressure sender was ordered the sump was blasted and some sort of special paint was put on it by my painter. I reused the low oil switch it looked good after cleaning.
A new clutch was sourced from exceedy a super tough plus ( the best single plate money can buy very heavy duty ) I felt a bit ripped off when the kit didn't come with a new spigot a few new head bolts and exhaust bots n nuts a genuine tappet Cover gasket a few outher bits n pieces bolts nuts glow plugs and the like and the eng itself was ready for assembly but I still needed injection.
Keep going, we're listening. opcorn
Sorry mate I've been a bit busy last couple days I fired it up 2day it is efffing nice like gooood oh yea don't panic I got footage and I will continue with the write up and pics and prices but right now I gotta sleep just give me a day or 2 and I'll put it all up
Ok now the injection was the next hurtle lucky 4 me my specialist only lives about 10 houses away from me so a walk down the street to c him and a good few hrs spent talking to him ( he was consulted b4 I started the build along with my eng builder and my turbo specialist and the drive line man ) and we where under way the injectors came apart and all new internals where put in and the crack off pressures where set at 10 bar more than stock and the spray pattern was perfect the lines where sat in the sonic bath for a good while once again I like clean. The problem now is building a pump perfect enough to run the squirters. The pump came down and we found a mess a real mess like wow every thing was completely stuffed. I don't know much about injector pumps but I can tell u that I got every part at trade price and 4k was spent on parts on the pump I know it's got a new housing and I know he spent somewhere around 35 hrs building my injection and the head is shimmed up ( something about start up pressures ) He tells me when he tested it on the machiene it stopped pumping at 10,000 rpm so that might tell the people that understand them how special it is. With that sort of rpm u can bet ur bottom dollar it's gunna hold together considering the rotating assy when it was blue printed and balanced was spun to 8.500 rpm it's prob a bit over kill but at least u know its gunn go the distance and go like the clappers. He also did my vacume pump and power steering pump including new vains along with a couple outher bits n pices in the vac pump and a new shaft , bearing and what ever else was needed in the ps pump he put in there u would have to ask him but ime satisfied its good. I'm bloody lucky he only charged me parts and $500 labour that he wanted at Christmas time he did work it out that if he had have put it on the books it would have been somewhere around 8k Finally I had every last piece and was ready to assemble the big 1hz.
Eng assy and firing it happens in one weekend I got my injection specialist around to help more for the timing on the pump than anything else u need a special tool to dial these pumps in and it's berry important 2 get it spot on the difference between to far advanced or to far retarded is about 1 mill each way on the marks I also wanted his torque wrench as his are good ones and they get calibrated every month. I also got anouther friend around ( the outher bloke in the picks ) reece who is still swinging span nerds for a living 2 come n help we assembled on Saturday and slid her in on Sunday. I also had a new starter alt and air comp to go on. There goes anouther 15k. I rang my auto electrician and got him busy doing the wiring on the box and the fuel system wiring that goes with it along with the wiring on the eng itself It's easier to do it now whilst there is no body on the way especially since I wanted a custome wiring job a few trips to ash downs some wire a few doish plugs some condute some resin shrink tape and a full day of putting it on and it looks smick. I had to buy anouther complete wiring harness out of a donour car to get some better quality plugs ( the ones that need to stay stock that is ) I did that because I coil dent bring myself to spend 3k on a new harness and then chop it to bits. The second hand one was only $500 a lot more affordable. Now she was ready 4 the body to b put back on.
Been having trouble getting picks off phone and on here I donk know why some are upside down but there is an update none the less Haven't seen any replies ? What do u guys think so far?
theres no way I could work bare foot!!!! good looking ride
It's good for your feet , it should b good looking $15000 spent on panel n paint and that's getting everything at trade rate and mates rates and payed in cash. Plus a whole lot of man hours getting everything perfect
The body what a headache I started with a replacement tub ( bottom half of cab ) off a 97 model no rust and strait as a die That was taken off to my panel beater spray painter along with every outher piece of the body Mack chassis red was the colour that was picked ( I wanted it a bit darker but Mack classy red is a flat basic colour that I can but off the shelf and know its gunna match ) the tub was sand blasted etch primed under coated and painted. Underneath has been sprayed with that black tar body deadener heat retardent stuff. A brand new front windscreen frame was purchased ( genuine ) along with a new bonnet ( also genuine ) the roof was good so was the rear windscreen frame . All was a bare metal rub down by hand and spray up except the new parts basic prep n paint. The front quarter guards upper n lower where good for a dint in the lower driver side that was beaten out bare metal rub down prepped and painted. A lot of time sanding I can assure u. The passenger door was good but the drivers door was a mess.
Cam seems to have gone walkabout for a while, but how is your 'cruiser coming along Cmark?
It's actually going quite well, thanks for asking. It turned into pretty much a nuts and bolts restoration. I'm not really big into the 4WD performance mods wank. More of a factory spec rebuild. I'm currently brushing up on my tig welding skills and building a new aluminium tray for it. I'll put up some pics when it's done.
I spotted this one on my travels .......
Those old FJs come from an era when men where men and women where gratefull.
I thought it was the era when men were men and sheep got frightened ........ especially in Oz ....... :tong
lol.....I'll remember that Nige. The venerable FJ40, or short wheelbase Tojo, was/is the perfect vehicle for catching wild bulls and buffalo in the gulf country of North Qld. and the Northern Territory. The original method was to chase the bull down and then give him a bump to knock him off his feet, park the vehicle over him, like the boys above, leap out and tie him up. Later, someone invented "the arm", which resulted in a much greater level of safety for man and beast alike. Plenty of clips on the subject here. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zqkXxximQtk Cheers, Greg
Yair . . . Good one Queenslander The early bull-arms worked off a Toyota starter motor but a young bloke rocked up to our workshop in Karumba with drawings for hydraulic ones and we fitted I think seven sets to his stripped down FJ's. That was in the early days of the BTEC scheme and he had a contract to catch west of Burketown on the Gulf. I spent a bit of time with the boys (oh to be young again) and the things worked well enough but they went back to the starter motor and spring deal because out in the sticks they were easier to fix. We only occasionally worked with choppers and one of the problems some times was finding the buggers when you went back with the trailer . . . a lot easier these days with GPS. (big grin) Nice bit of flat country up there hey? . . . that's the stuff they reckon they going to turn into the foodbowl of Asia, just rake up all those ant mounds, plough it up and add water, no problem for wankers. Cheers.
Hey fellers just got back to townsville sorry about the lack of communication on my part life got hetick I'll be back on here when I can and give the next update. Been down banana way doin battle with some cursed 631 ( open bowl pieces of junkyard scrap ) been sick as well had drama at home and then my mate had an incident with a piece of rope the out her bloke in those photoes ( why I'm in townsville ) and then hit a roo this morning and wrote off my car. Oh I'll have to dig out the picks of me throwing mickeys up the gulf if u guys r interested. I'll be back
that bull catching setup is slick as snot. I never seen that before, here in the states we still use horses or ATVs
Yair . . . Gotcha Cam85 Sorry to hear about your troubles . . . love to see some pickys of throwing Gulf Mickys. Cheers.
Keep your chin up Cam...... It'll be alright in the long run. Dualie, The vast bulk of cattle here are handled the same way as yours. More are being mustered with the aid of helicopters in more extensive areas...with some preparation and with experienced operators, this is a calm and efficient process. However, in the far north, cattle are run in huge areas of timbered country with a very distinct wet and dry season. It is common for some to be missed for a year or two, these are the ones, mostly bulls, that have to be caught like this. The buffalo are a different story. They are the Asian water buffalo and were introduced, way back when, as beasts of burden and as a food supply for early settlements. Later they were released to the wild and went feral. Numbers of feral buff are now much reduced, but they say there are still some 80000 in the Territory. Cheers, Greg
Lots of ferrel pigs up there to and crocks and snakes. Some of the bulls n cows we catch are clean skins and have never seen man b4 or maybe once or twice. Trapping on water can be very effective but there are alwase those cunning old coots that think being elusive is funny. U must b carefull a few scrubbers can reak havok and tempt coaches away from a mob there is usually some inbreeding in the micks that makes em even harder to Handel. I've had a few that got shot. Catching em is only half the battle quitening them down is another problem on its own. Even just the task of getting them off to the works can b a fair contract on its own. Hopefully u can get a truck in and truck em out if not sometimes u gotta add coaches try 2 quitening them down and walk em out believe me u want good men half reasonable horses and if possible a few good dogs are very handy indeed. For those of u who may not know it's not that hard to tip a beast of horse back if u have 2 good men and a pair of balls with some tech neack one man on the head and one on the tail clown the head one way and pull the tail the same way will put the beast of balance and he will fall strait on his side. Unless u have an experienced sidekick do not try it if u stuff it up not only do u loose the beast but u could b seriously injured.
Since the introduction of choppers n bikes n trucks and better breeding n bloodlines coupled with loose lick runs better fencing and stations buying there own graders for road matience ect I would have thought that wild cattle like that would have become a thing of the past but with vast distances of crown land plenty of natural water available there still out there and I don't think the job of the top end ringer will ever die out. A great thing for a young bloke to 2 get in to it will toughen u up and some of the skills n values learned will carry through 4 a life time . Personally I think some of our youth busy being a bum ake in the city need to b rounded up and put to work on some of,these places and worked so hard all day every day all they wanna do at nite time is sleep. My 2 cence worth anyway
It's finished.
That's a work of art! :notworthy
Nice job Cmark.... unique tray, is it alloy or gal steel?
It's aluminium. 6061 for the structural stuff, 6060 for the light sections. Handcrafted by myself and the team of filipino maidens that work for me. (When they bother to turn up, which isn't often.)
Hey everybody it's been a while but I'm back at it currently throwing a wedge of cash at the ass end hey c mark nice job I was woundering if u might take a couple of pick and put em as I can't remember where a couple things go need to c whitch way the plates go under the springs in relation to the schoky mounts and need to c where some bracket s go on the rear chassy thanks in advance.
Sorry Cam, I must have missed your post from December last year asking for photos of the r-send. It looks like you don't need them now but if you need any other info, shout out. The tray is looking nice. I see you've gone for the tie down rail design. I've always preferred rope hooks myself. Any particular reason? Anyone else want to discuss the two options?
Hmmm? Double post. Not sure why.
Hey guys, Cam's away at work atm, he'll reply when hes back in a couple of weeks.
Tbh Cmark, I've never had reason to consider anything other than tie down rails, as 99.9% of trays in the bush are made that way. Debatable, but the rails may add some extra rigidity to trays sentenced to hard labour. The hooks would be handy when using those smaller ratchet straps though.
Yea mate I'm in town 4 the night put a Mulga stick through a radiator core today anyway there is a lot of thought in my tray I'll need a few hrs to point out all the details I like the rail design as I can hook on anywhere full length of the tray and with the water tank design and fuel pod design and mud guard design I had 2 go that way when I get a spare night I'll put up some picks and point some things out there is more to go on the tray yet it will make more sense when it's finished