Hey guys, I have an old Detroit inline 371 Diesel engine. Its in an old Austin Western Grader, but my question is about the 371 in general, so I posted here. I let this machine sit for about 3 years. The blower went bad on it about the time I got married and bought a house, and it kinda got put on the backburner and just sat out at my dads place. I put a replacement blower on it this summer, and it runs good again, but its slobbering like crazy. It didn't do this so bad before. It slobbered a bit like a Detroit will, but now its slobbering badly and I have oil oozing down the exhaust manifold. Does anyone have any advice? I fear I have ring problems, but don't have alot of experience with these engines. Over the years it was parked, I did spin the engine a bit by hand once a month or so just to make sure it didn't lock up, so the rings didn't have a chance to rust into the cylinder walls or anything. Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated Andy
Was the replacement blower a new one, or a used one? Make sure some critter hasn't clogged the crankcase vent tube while it was parked. That's the large external tube coming from top of engine, not the small 1/4" airbox drain tubes that are probably slobbering the oil. Oh, "oil oozing from manifold", just caught that. Check that air box drain tube isn't clogged by a dirt dauber.
thanks for the reply! Is that the tube that comes down from near the governor? If so I washed it out when I did the blower. The blower is used. It seemed to be okay, so I did not over haul it. Just installed it.
It's hard to pinpoint all the possiblities, but, assuming it didn't slobber oil before, you replaced blower with used unit, now it's slobbering oil out of exhaust manifold, I'm thinking it's possible the used blower unit is in need of shaft seals. The air box drain tube is a small 1/4" dia tube at the bottom of the block just above where oil pan connects to block, usually near flywheel housing. It drains excessive oil that builds up in air boxes that lubricates upper piston rings. The crankcase vent tube is about a 1" dia tube, and it may come from the governor housing area, can't remember for sure.
3-71 I agree with ATCOEQUIP, I would first make sure the air box drains are clear/venting/breathing. Now if they are not clear, remove them and see if they are stopped up in the tube and fitting, or inside the air box. Dont blow through the tube, back inside the air box, remove them and clean them, if they are stopped, its probably in the elbow fitting. Now if the fitting is clear and the hole in the block is free, and there is no pressure coming out with engine running, I have screwed a grease fitting in this hole and gave it about 6 pumps of grease. When the grease gets hot, it will melt and push the crude out, of course remove the grease fitting before starting the engine and leave the fitting off for now. Now, remove the blower screen/housing and see if the lobes, are real oily. If they are, most likely the seals are bad in the blower Lets check the injectors. With the engine running and warmed up, take a screw driver (common about 12") and put down between the injector spring and plunger, just rock the screwdriver and it will hold the plunger down, killing the fuel to the engine. Do this on all the cylinders, you are trying to see/hear if all of them are sounding about the same. Im thinking what is wrong is a bad injector. You can find them on eBay for about $30 ea, I think the local shops charge around $65 ea. If you find a bad injector I would replace all of them. Of course, before doing this, is it possible, someone has set the injectors and rack wrong, I have never seen this done, but its possible. Ive had injectors stick, in the full fuel position. When this happens either the engine would rev up, or it wants to run away Recap 1. check the breather and vent tubes 2. check the injectors 3. check the blower lobes, for excessive oil 4. if you can pull the air box covers off, you can look through the linner ports and see if you have a broke ring, or scored linner. Im not sure if you can get to them in your machine. If you do remove them make sure you have new gaskets, or RTV sealant to re install them. This engines are pretty simple to rebuild, if you have to go that far. Sorry for the long reply, I get carried away talking about Detroits Good Luck and keep us posted
I suppose if the blower seals are the problem, the veins of the blower should be all oily after its has run? I hate to pull it back off, but thats a better deal then rings and liners! :beatsme
At least your working on a 3-71, Andy 1845C. It's a dirtier job on a V engine. Aside from removing and inspecting/repairing blower, be sure and take a good look at the splined shaft that drives the blower. That shaft is designed to be a weak link in case something gets lodged in blower when running. In that case, it's designed to rip the teeth off of the shaft before it grenades blower. I have replaced a number of those shafts over the years from the teeth simply wearing out.
Willis, Thanks for the reply! I know it is oil slobbering out, because the oil level goes down too fast to be normal. So I don't think its a case of a bad injector dumping diesel in. I will check the vents tomarrow, but I am pretty sure I had that tube off and washed it out. I will take a peek at the inside of the blower tommarow if i have time too. The more I think about it, I bet the seals are leaking. I don't think I will have time this year to fix it. Would it be a terrible thing to run it as long as I keep pouring oil in? I have a small project for it.
Atco - That shaft id supposed to shear the splines off? Mine snapped in the center and thats why it quit running 3 years ago. One of the veins inside the old blower cracked and locked it up. It wasn't pretty!
At worst, hot oil in exhaust could catch on fire. Not to mention what a mess it's going to make over time blowing oil out, yuk. Yep, seen 'em snap in middle as well. Like I said, that shaft is a designed weak point. If you've replaced it already, you should be good with the shaft. Bummer you can't repair it right now, that old Detroit is probably chawin' at the bit to burn diesel once again.
Well, I will see if I can take a peek at the blower insides tomorrow and see how much oil is in there. Then I guess I will have a better idea if its the seal, but it seems logical. I only have maybe a few hours of work for it his fall. I would kind of like to get that done, and then repair it right. the engine was rebuilt not to long ago and it still seems to run great. Right now my biggest problem with it is it still has some 50 year old rubber hydraulic hoses on it that were doing okay 3 years ago, but now are blowing, lol Worst part is they used this strange 15/16th UNF thread end on some of them that attach to the steel line....:Banghead I can't find them anywhere. I made an adapter on my lathe to go from that to NPT thread so I can buy regular hoses for it now. I fixed one tonight.... only 14 more adapters to make....:beatsme Its always something..... but man I love these old machines!:drinkup Thanks to both of you for the help. I will post back when I know a bit more.
3-71 start the engine and see if any air/???? is coming out of the air box drains, if you feel anything, they are OK maybe I really think you have a blower issue, now I know it was a used blower. As far as using it as is and keep adding oil, I would say I have seen a bunch of worn out engines slobbering away and still working. It isnt a good idea, but I really dont think anything will happen bad, just keep a eye on the oil and oil pressure. My only concern is, you said the oil level was going now fast, if it is going now fast, then it maybe going down too fast to keep oil added in a safe way
I agree with ya Willis, if oil is going down fast, hard to say it can be safe to run it. I was called to get a Rex compactor off of a landfill, 8V-71 had busted rings on a couple of pistons. I ran it a couple hundred feet, had to stop and put a gallon of oil in it. Repeated this process several times until the machine was at a spot we could pull the engine. Man, what a mess of oil coming out of the exhaust all over the engine compartment.
I had a 4-71 years ago on a loader. It had a oil control problem but it didn't use oil like you are describing, anyway it ran away, What a show! r.p.m. like super stocks at the tractor pull. incredibly it stayed together. changed seals in blower ran for a while and did it again! At first it only did it on full throttle but got progressively worse in that it would run away at lower and lower throttle. For safety Make sure you have an operable shutdown damper on the blower intake. My guess is you have stuck rings on a cyl that is dead and it is just pumping oil. if it is blower seals it will eventually use that oil for fuel and runaway. if it runs way it could scavange oil from crankcase and run on that. It has to be dangerous, shattered flywheel comes to mind, so please be carefull . wound up selling the machine to a guy who said he would rebuild the engine.
You don't necessarily have to pull the blower. There are hand covers on the sides of the block. Pull one or two of those and look inside. If it is all oiled up you know what to do. If not you likely to have to go deeper. Good Luck!
Wet stacking Detroit Andy, Make sure that you are running the correct crank case oil. These Detroit 2-cycles need single viscosity 40 weight that meets CF-2 specs. Delo 100 by Chevron is one brand. Most NAPA stores can order it for you. No one in my neck of the woods normally stocks it. Do NOT use multi-viscosity (15W-40) engine oil (Delo 400). If you have changed the oil and poured the wrong oil into the engine, or if you don't know the exact oil that is in the engine, change it. Then, run the engine hard for an hour or so. The excess oil pouring out of the exhaust should clear right up. This problem is common, so common that it has a name: wet stacking. If it were mine, I'd remove the filter and pour the incorrect oil out, then prefill it with the correct oil and run with it. Hang in there. ~0le
3-71 you can use Ursa 40 also, it is a bit cheaper, if you can find it, Texaco used to make it, but I think they sold out to ????? I can buy it in my area. Check the blower, before you do to much stuff.
Hey guys, 15-40W is exactly what I put in it......:Banghead I didn't get a look at the blower lastnight because it was raining. I was going to look thismorning before work, but its still raining..... I did think about the runaway potential, and check the emergency air cut off flapper last time I shut it off. It works good. Thanks for the reminder on that and continued help. -Andy
Hey Andy, here's you some reading on the oil specs for the 2 stroke Detroit. Detroit Diesel recommends sulfated ash of the oil should be less than 1.0%. The Texaco Ursa oil that Willisbushogin mentioned is now merged with Chevron and is Chevron/Texaco Ursa Extra Duty, it has an ash content of 0.85% which is within Detroit specs. Oddly enough, Shell Rotella is borderline at 1.0% ash. All these are SAE40 oils. Multigrade oils are not recommended for Detroit 2 stroke engines. Here's you a link; http://www.tejascoach.com/ddcoil.html
Well, I ran it for a bit today and then took the cover off the blower and peeked at the veins. The looked pretty clean. Not oily. :beatsme With the oil weight issue - does the multi-weight 15-40 cause slobbering or just engine wear? The vents seem open to me. Today the fuel tank decided to start leaking:Banghead Its always something.....
Hmmm, not sure myself. If you took the intake casting off of the blower to view the viens, I don't know that you would see the oil on the veins. You may, I just don't know. As for the multigrade and oil consumption, I've never noted the difference myself, but I read in the Tejas article that when they used Delo 400 they had more oil useage than when they used Delo 100. Maybe Willisbushogin can add some more info.
Andy, There is nothing wrong with your blower seals. If they were leaking, there would be oil all over the veins, (which are called lobes, by the way). If your blower seals were leaking oil, you would be complaining about the engine runing away, not about too much oil in the exhaust system. Your problem is caused by running the WRONG oil. Drain your oil. Put in the correct spec oil. Run the engine HARD for an hour or so and your wet stacking will go away. This is a common problem. It has an easy, relatively inexpensive fix, but it will cost you the expense of buying the correct oil. (Hey, if money is tight, save the low-hour oil that you drain out of your Detroit and run it in another engine for which it meets spec.) I agree, it seems counter intuitive that such a simple (oil) change could address such an apparently massive problem...but it does. Have faith, my son...and follow the manufacturer's oil specification requirements to the letter. Look at it like this, an oil change is A LOT less expensive than an overhaul. The Detroit is the only 2-stroke engine in a 4-stroke world. It does have some quirks. Its need for special oil is one them. You might be able to save 5% or 10% or so on the price of the oil if you can buy it from a jobber (Chevron) rather then from a local retail outlet (NAPA). That will require that you buy by the case, though. Tejas Coach is an interesting site. Believe him when he tells you to run the correct oil. Check out his storys about blower seals and run-aways at http://www.tejascoach.com/tips.html . Another interesting site is www.busnut.com/bbs . Roll down slightly and click on "The Board." Members/posters on that board buy old (Detroit-powered) buses and convert them into motor homes. For some, it is their first experience with a piece of heavy iron, Detroit power not-with-standing. Hang in there, Andy, you'll get it.
Thanks guys. I will see if I can locate the correct oil here in town tomarrow. I was planning to change the oil after a few hours anyway seeing it sat so long. It would be good to get any moisture or gunk that was in the engine flushed out. So no heartbreaking loss there. The low hour 15-40 will make good D-8 airfilter oil. Today I need to se what I can do about the damn fuel tank. I have a smaller plastic tank I am going to see if I can make work. The old one must have rusted out on one of the corners.
3-71 Ill answer the fuel tank question first, Ive done this as a temporary fix and it ended up being a permanent fix. If you can get to the corner to fix it, or take the tank out and fix it the better way, FIBERGLASS repair. Even if you dont have any experience with doing this, its a trial and error thing. You have to clean it very good, before attempting to fiberglass. Wire brush on a grinder, grinding disk. Of course the simplest thing to do is remove the tank, remove all the fuel and flush the tank good with water. You can get fiberglass supplies from auto parts stores, I use Napa in my area, but I guess any will do. I wouldnt go into details now, but if its something you want to try, let me know. Now to the oil slobbering, Im trying to remember, if you said why you changed the blower, this could be a clue, maybe. Did the engine start slobbering when you changed the oil, or changed the governor? I dont like going against anyones advice, but in my 30 something years messing with 71 series engines, I have never had a slobbering problem, caused by the wrong oil. This might be that the correct oil was always used, humm Was the engine slobbering, before you changed the governor? Back to my other posts, take the inspection covers off and check for a broke or stuck ring injector will cause slobbering, it will wash the rings down and mix with oil ans blow out the stack and everywhere else. You also stated it couldnt be the injectors, because the oil level was going down, how long does it take to lower the oil level? If you change the oil, make sure you change the filter. If you can find a oil additive made by Lucas, you add it to excessive worn engines. I would add 1 gal, along with the oil, its like a STP thick additive, I use it all the time in all the engines. It sells for about $24 a gal. Keep us posted, this is beginning to be an interesting thread:usa
Quote: ~ole Quote: ATCOEQUIP That's interesting. I should rephrase my statement, I said I never noted the difference (between multigrade and straight 40), what I should have said is something like "I haven't used multigrade so I don't have any experience with it causing increased oil consumption".
Hey all, Fuel tank issue is solved for now. I had a smaller plastic tank that will work until I fix the original, if I ever do. Willis - Are the inspection covers you are refferring too the three square-ish covers on the side of the block? As for how fast the oil goes down...... its hard to say. Its not pouring out faster then I can pour it in, but its certinly coming out the stack and making a mess. I would guess it will go from full to add in an hour maybe? I haven't run it enough yet to get a good idea. I changed the blower. Not the govener. I did everything I could to not mess with anything with I moved the govener from the old blower to the new one. I changed the blower because one of the lobes cracked and it locked up. It didn't slobber much before the blower went bad and it set for 3 years. Certinly not like it does now. I will keep everyone posted.... thansk for the continued help! -Andy
3-71 Looks like Im getting out voted about changing the oil to a 40W, so go ahead and do it. Just remember, you have a bunch of oily crap, in the exhaust and muffler. As stated, it will take a while to burn all this stuff out. Yes those kinda square plates on the side, is the inspection plates, I think it takes a 9/16 wrench, to remove the bolt. Dont force them off, you might bend them, just keep messing with them, they come off. They should have a concave shaped copper washer, under the head of the bolt. Make sure it goes back the way it comes off, if you remove it. You can look through the liner ports/holes and check the rings and liner scoring. You can turn the engine where you can get the piston at different postions to check these items. Be careful, doing this, if you are using the starter to rock the engine, safety thing, you know Im not sure on your application, how hard the exhaust manifold is to take off, but if its easy to get to, you can remove it and see what cylinder is real wet, I would do this last, the studs might snap off, they have a history of doing these on older engines. How does the engine run? Does it sound like its missing? Hope we can help get you going.
Thanks, Willis. I think I will pop those covers off and have a peek, and if all look okay, go for the 40W and see what happens. Its about all I can do I guess. I almost popped one off today to see what was in there but figured I better double check. I can just see me popping one off and all the coolent pouring out or something... The exhaust manifold does not look hard to get off, but does look plenty rusty. I think I will leave it on there unless I have to remove it. It runs great! I am no Detroit expert, but I think it sounds fine. Fires right up, doesn't sound to me like its missing at all.
This has nothing to do with your problem, Just a brain poop, My first diesel engine, I owned was a Detroit 2-71, I put it in a commerical fishing boat, boy was it noisy in that small boat. That was 1970, seems like yesterday. Ran like a swiss clock, just not as quite. The biggest one I owned was a 12-71. Biggest I ever worked on was a 16V71 Keep us posted
update I took all 3 inspection covers off tonight. Everything in there is covered in oil. The rings look okay to me. I can of course only see one side if them, but they are shiny and oily and move when poked with a screwdriver. So if they are broken or stuck its on a side I can't see. The cylinder walls look smooth from what I can see. But there certinly is ALOT of oil oozing around in there. Any input? is there a trick to spotting a bad ring through that opening?
Willis said he was being "outvoted" on the oil change. I hope he wasn't referring to me as a vote because I said I was clueless. ~ole contends that if the blower seals were bad, you would for sure see oil on the lobes. I don't know myself, I have to take his word for that. Maybe him or Willis can offer you some more info. But out of curiosity, I would like to see what an oil change to SAE 40 C2 would do for it. Change oil and filter and run the dog snot out of it. If proper oil would in fact make a difference, seems we have an excellent specimen here to try it out on.
Is the area that those covers lead into known as the "air box"? Is there other ways for oil to get on there then the blower seals? Will the pistons actually carry it up out of the crankcase and deposit it in the airbox via those "air holes" in the liners? (sorry for my horrible terminology here.... I need a good lesson in detroits....) I am not doubting the oil being wrong could case this, but I am curious why that is so. Does multi weight get past the rings or some other seal that the proper 40W will not get through? got bombed with work today and didn't have a chance to call around and see who has that 40W. Maybe I can do that tomorrow. Its supposed to maybe dry up a bit around here too, so maybe I can actually work her a bit and see what that does this week or weekend.
Yes, that is the area commonly know as the "air box". It's a scavenging cavity that feeds all pistons fresh air as a collective chamber. There are at least 3 other ways excessive oil can enter the air box. The least likely, but possible, is failure of the lower o-ring that seals the liners in the block just above crankshaft. Then there is the possiblity of either loose or improperly installed wrist pin end caps that prevent oil that lubes the wrist pins from entering air box. Lastly would be failure of lower piston scraper rings. The Detroit Piston has rings on the top and bottom of each piston. The top rings are the compression rings, the rings at the bottom are the scaper rings that prevent excess oil entering air box area. Here's a couple of pics for you. Here's Detroit pistons turned upside down. You can see the 3 compression rings on the piston tops, and the 2 scraper rings at the bottom (of course, these are all upside down though). You can also see the wrist pin end caps I was referring to. Here's Detroit liners with pistons/rods install ready to drop in block.
Hmmm, well, failure of the O-rings or endcaps does not seem real likely, as it wasn't doing this before.... but those scraper rings.....I wonder how those are doing.... wish I could see them. I wonder if possibly one or all of those could have got rusty from condensation on the crankcase....:beatsme Maybe Ole can comment more on where the multi-weight oil sneaks around. Maybe the scraper rings?:beatsme I will say those are pretty cool engines. I am enjoying learning a bit more about whats inside them. Thanks for the pictures. :usa
As for improper oil, it gets all technical, way above my High School edumacation. I have read that one of the factors is that multigrade oil has friction and viscosity modifiers that can't handle the extreme pressure the scaper rings put on the oil. I don't know how that translates into increased oil consumption, I've just read plenty of info that multigrade will not lube the rings/pistons properly which leads to piston/liner failure. Another thing to keep in mind is that a certain amount of oil is allowed, even necessary, to enter the air box. After all, the top piston rings require lube. If you look closely at the pic of pistons/rods installed in the liners, you can see the scraper rings viewing through the liner ports. When the pistons are at TDC, the scaper rings are slightly above the bottom of the ports which allows a small amount of oil to enter the air box for lubricating top piston rings. As soon as piston goes back down, the scraper rings create the oil seal in the lower part of the liner below the ports. Here's a pic of a 53 series where you can see the open area of the air box that feeds air to all the cylinders.
LoL, a good lesson in the Detroit 2 stroke has to involve the basics of how it works. First, it is just that, 2 strokes of the piston. The first stroke is compression stroke, the second is power stroke. They do not need an intake or exhaust stroke that a 4 stroke engine requires. It's really very simple. When the piston is at bottom, the top of the piston is below the ports in the liners. At this point, the exhaust valves are open and air from the Roots blower is rushing through the open ports of the cylinder flushing exhaust gases out of the combustion chamber via the open exhaust valves. Just as piston begins to come up, the exhaust valves close. This allows the blower to give the combustion chamber a charge of air. Now the piston continues up and blocks the ports, this is the beginning of compression stroke. Near TDC of compression stroke, the injector gives the chamber a shot of fuel, ignition now happens, and with all engines, ignition begins power stroke with piston being forced down under pressure. As the piston reaches bottom of power stroke, the ports are now open, and we do it all over again.
Saga of the slobber update Atco - Thanks for the pictures and detroit lesson. I now see why the blower is so important. I had no luck locating anything but generic 40W oil today. NAPA brand and some other that I can't remember. I called the local petroleum dealer that sells Texaco products, and he was not able to readily get me any URSA 40w... I will keep looking.... I suppose any 40w would be better then 15-40? I finally had a chance to run it tonight for about an hour before it got dark outside. I filled the oil to the FULL mark exactly to be able to gauge how much it slobbered out, and ran it at 1/2 or 3/4 throttle for an hour or so in wet loamy soil, so it had to snort a bit once and a while. It seems like the slobber subsided a bit.....:beatsme There was less ooze then the last few times I have let it idle, and the oil level was pretty much unchanged after that hour of running. I know I didn't fix it because I haven't done anything but peek at the rings lastnight, but maybe a stuck scraper ring popped loose under a bit more load? I am pretty much as confused as ever. Maybe the exhaust just got hot enough to burn the ooze too, but it didn't seem to be draining the crankcase like it did when I graded dads driveway a few weekends ago. I still want to put the proper oil in it before I run it much more.
stuck rings will cause slobbering, they sometimes break loose by running, after a long setup, or by pushing on them. Good luck and hope whatever happened, stays good with the engine
Doesn't Valvoline make the oil for NAPA? Talk to your NAPA dealer, they should be able to look up the specs on their oil. It would be an SAE40 oil that meets CF-2 specs and has an ash volume of less than 1.0%. The lower the ash than 1% the better. If they have an oil that meets those specs, I say go for it. And yes, a Detroit that idles or is lightly worked for extended periods will slobber some oil out of the air box drain tubes, until you run the snot out of it.
My local petroleum guy called me back this morning, and he said he did some research and Texaco doesn't make the URSA 40w anymore. Anyone bought it recently? He is going to get me a 5 gallon bucket or Rotella 40w. 1% ash content. Still it should be better then running the multi weight oil in there.
I'm sorry if I'm beating a dead horse here, but are you really sure the air box drains are clear. They should be dripping oil out the bottom.
Yeah, pretty sure. I can feel air puffing out when its running. I can double check though just to be sure.
Andy, Put in the correct oil, work the engine hard, minimize idling. The "outpouring" of oil should subside in fairly short order. Detroit 2-strokes love to work hard. If you have to leave a Detroit 2-stroke parked for a while, do not start it once in a while unless you have the time and where-with-all to load it/work it sufficiently to fully warm the engine to normal operating temperature. For buses, the recommendation is 100 miles once every 6 weeks. Regarding the wet stacking, I alas, cannot explain the mechanism of misbehavior. When I took the factory training classes in these engines, we got a list of acceptable oils. (This list is current as of 1985, so you'll have to verify availability). The factory spec to meet: SAE 40 CF2 1% (max) ash * Chevron Delo 100 * Texaco URSA Extra Duty * Citgo Citgard Transit Low Ash Engine Oil * Fina Fleet Engine Oil Monograde * Shell Rotella T Single Grade Oil * Exxon XD-3 Monograde Premium Diesel Engine Oil * Castrol Assuron * Royal Purple Motor Oil SAE 40 CF2 * Conoco HD Fleet 40 I hope this information proves helpful. Hang in there. Never give up. Keep us posted. Sincerely, ~0le
Thanks for the infomation and support, Ole. There is a bucket of Rotella 40w waiting for me at the local oil wholesaler, I just haven't had time to go pick it up and do an oil change. I am building a driveway for my new home and the rock was delivered yesterday. I roughed it in with my old 15A D-8, but it needs some finish blading with the grader, so that would be a good opertunity to try it with the new oil. Hopfully this weekend. Dang daylight goes away too soon to get anything done after work now!
Andy, It never rains but it pours. On the Busnut.com discussion board there is a post of companies still manufacturing CF2 oil for 2 cycle engines. It is from the October 2009 issue of Fleet Owner magazine. I have taken the liberty of copying that list: Motor oil producers and their versions of DDA 2 cycle CF2 oils: * Amalie-XLO HD Fleet Grade oil * American Refining- Gulf Super Duty engine oil * Champion Brands- Champion Premium Heavy Duty oil * Chevron Products Co.- URSA Super Plus Oil * Cenex Lubricants- Super Lube 518 * Conoco Phillips- HD Fleet oil * D-A Lubricant Company- DA Reliant oil * Exxon-Mobil- XD-3 oil * Petro Canada Lubricants- Duron oil * Phillips 66- Super HDII oil * Schaffer Mfg.- 702 Supreme 7000 Synthetic oil * 76 Lubricants- Guardol QLT oil * Shell- Rotella oil * David Weber Oil Co.- Gibraltar HD Plus CF-2 All of these offered 30, 40, and some 50 weights. Now you can search these companies and compare their oil specs for lowest ash and whether you have a local distributor. ~0le
Thanks Ole. This is a good topic for anyone else with detroit oil issues. Hopefully everyones input will help more then just me. I got my pail of Rotella 40w sitting at home. I just haven't had time with there is daylight to do an oil change. Tomarrow looks good though. The oil guy I got it from said he thinks this is the first time he has ever sold 40w in the five years he has worked there. He says it getting pretty uncommon and no one stocks it
Just a quick update - I changed to the Rotella 40W and ran the engine for several hours this past week. The slobber seems to have stopped. It had greatly slowed even with the multi weight oil in it, but now I really don't detect anything to speak of coming out the stack. I am guessing I had a combination of the improper oil and stuck rings or something. Thanks again to everyone who offered input on this. -Andy