I am looking for more detailed information on HOW TO, repair the rear brakes on my 3400A Backhoe. I am sure other models use the same type of brakes. Someone with experience would be a real help. I know I should not even get started with this repair. It looks aweful BIG. Looks like I'll have to remove the ROPS and Backhoe, drain allot of fluid, etc.... This is what I see currently. My right brake is fine (I rebuilt both master cylinders), and am sure something is leaking on the rear end for the left brake. The BIG PROBLEM is ROPS removal (I'd need a really tall crane) I can handle that if needed. Backhoe removal, plugging all the lines (wondering if I'd have to make some type of stand to hold the backhoe in position for reinstallation.) I have books but books don't beat experience.... IN MY BOOK. LOL I believe some of the models listed below should have this type of braking system. I am just looking for some insight into this job. 2400, 248, 2500, 258, 268, 278, 385, 454, 464, 474, 475, 484, 485, 574, 584, 585, 674, 684, 685, 784, 785, 884, 885, Thanks for any help, Gene
Sky king, Most of the Ih tractors have a brake line that runs to the rear axle, you need to put a hand pump on that line going into the rear houseing, when i worked for IH way back then, we had a grease gun, you turn the plunger seal around, fill the barrel with hy-tran and release the handle, this is after you install a short pipe, needle valve, pressure gauge, test hose 1/4" and fitting that will hook to the fitting on the housing where you took the line loose. Holding the grease gun down you pump oli into the piston and build pressure, close the needle valve and let it set to see if you have a slow leak, you may not be able to build pressure at all and this means you have to go into it. We spoke about the dump line before, do you have a pressure fed M/C or a res that you have to fill up? If you don't have a res then it is fed most likely from the P/S or trans cooler. If so you have to pinch the dump line and install a clear tube on the bleeder screw, run it into a bucket, start the machine and let it run untill you see no more air bubbles traveling threw the tube, then shut off the bleeder and check your brakes on that side. #1 step bleed the pistons in the rear housings, #2 pressure test the piston, #3 open it up if needed.
Thanks Sheepfoot. I'm positive it's an internal leak, prolly the piston o-rings or something like that. I got great pressure from the master cylinder and the line is bled and clear of air. I have a question, after I remove the ROPS and BACKHOE... how much work is it to do the brake job ? Doesn't seem like much considering what needs to be done. I know I'll need a floor jack, some stands and such. Any advice would be appreciated. LIke I said, I will most likely NOT do this job anytime soon, but I might get bored over the winter. Ha ha. Take care and thanks, Gene