Hey guys still fighting compression issues with my ole dt 466b did a inframe on this dozier motor an head work, im still building compression in coolant, took head back off an back to machine shop an they rechecked it all over an looks great, my linners appear to look fine aswell, will build pressure from cold start as well as at higher temp. idles fine all day long, at qter throttle it starts bubbleing up on me an looking like foam . hotter it gets the worse it builds press, its not over heating either.:Banghead
The Intl heads were bad for nozzle cup failures, if the shop did not pressure check the head you are chasing your tail with them. Need to get that head to a rebuilder that understands the places they will crack or break seal where a small shop will either dye or magna flux and not catch the crack as they don't pressure check. About the only way to get compression in coolant is thru the head or head gasket if liner protrusion is wrong but those generally leak externally, if anything I would buy a replacement used and have it gone thru then replace this one, you have wasted enough time with it.
For whatever it's worth as advice. I totally agree with dmiller that they need to psi test head or do the best thing n quit wasting time n money n pickup a new head n be done with these issues. I am not a intl fan, but it is what it is as they say. The reason it becomes worst as operating temperature increases is due to expansion of cracks or cup seat failure. We all have been here at one time or another, do yourself a favor n be done with it n get er back online. Good luck n hope you get er done soon,,, Ty
yea just spent 1300 bucks on the head due to all the injector tubes were shot an leaking bad, I was hopeing after I took the head back to the shop after the second time id hoped they had found something but nope looked good
yea Id love to tell my customer that he needs to find another head due to the leaks but he may not go for that since he already spent 1300 bucks to rebuild the head the first time an then now his motor is still building compression in water after inframeing it.
Hey Chris, well that's a tough situation ya got. Yet just be up front n honest n eat some of it if you value his account. Yet the outfit that tested head also needs to do their part, as they should have the abilities to check such problems, even if they outsource to another shop. Most of us have been where you are currently n honesty is the best way,,, Don't give it away yet try n help where you can as it will come back around some day. At least I have had such issues, but if he's a jerk that may not work regardless. You can't make chicken salad out of chickens*** as they say. It's always better to have a happy customer than a bad one, yet how to manage each can be complicated at times. Some always blame the wrench guy n those you can't satisfy n just move onward. They're not worth keeping imo. Good luck n hold your head up regardless.
Only place you will get compression in coolant is thru head/head gasket, sorry to say, you as I have been, are between the rock and hard place. If the head repair shop failed to upset the cups correctly into the head machinings, if the head was cracked inside a nozzle cup machining, if the head had other issues beyond the cups and valve work they need to stand behind it and refund at least some of their cost. I have services I won't use anymore due to less than quality work where they would not back it, some of those went out of business others plod right along. Check the head gasket that last came off, look for trails at or around any of the water jacket bore seals, check the crush for the fire ring at the liner heads, I am sure you already have but always worth a second or third look. If nothing on the gasket then go back to the head, I have even sealed water connection openings with head on a bench, corked all the jacket holes and filled one with isopropyl alcohol and red food color to find where it was leaking from on a old Detroit, machine shop could not find it but I did. I had to give that one away as that customer would not hear there were more issues than estimated, can't always win and he never forgave the extra expense even as I ate most of it.
Hey friend, thanks for ur remarks, how well I know bout making the chicken salad outta tha chicken poo,,, I say that every do myself, ive just gotta keep looking for my thorn that's pricking me,, I don't give up easily ,not like it when something like this bites me in the tail, may just need to take my head to another shop an just askem to look it over with out telling them whats going on with my tractor.
Hey Mr. Miller, thanks for the tip with the rubbing alcohol, hadn't though of that one,,, ive used gas before on a head to check valve seats tho, though of takeing head to another place with out telling them whats going on with my tractor. whats so bad is that ive built tha guys motor an done got my check an guy called me an said that water was still pushing outta rad. in witch it did before the inframe, wasn't complete waste tho on the build due to 2 pistons were washed from water. I haven't a problem with any rework its just weres it at to fix it,,, trust me im far from ever giving a bad taste in anyones mouth bout my work,,,, cause bad wrenching flys as fast as good ones.
This is a raw deal for everybody involved. Just from what I'm reading , I'd have similar things happen but I was my own mechanic on my own machine. Just my .02 , Have another shop pressure test it. If it checks out that its leaking , the original shop needs to man up. Lots of times I've seen some of these machine shop look over a cylinder head and say yeah its ok. Its a tuff situation I hope works out. We built a Ford 3 cylinder tractor engine , diesel , rebuilt it out of frame complete block strip etc, all new stuff , started it , ran about 15 minutes and it locked up tighter the Richards hat band. Almost threw up. Should have. Come to find out the bore was too tight .
Had a similar thing on a Waukesha six many years ago. Out of frame rebuild. Started on shop floor to check out. Ran a couple minutes and shut it down. Went to restart and it would not move! Found a main bearing had seized ointhead. Pulled crank and took to machine shop. They found it to be bent. Used press to straighten. Reinstalled with new main bearings and ran fine after that. This engine had been over sped and that was the reason we had to rebuild. That is probably how crank got bent. Never could convince the guy who was driving it that it had been over reved. Even though the air compressor that had it's own oil sump had broke both rods and the bearings on the big ends of rods looked like new.