For the IH fans, here's a latter model hoe, probably one of the last backhoes they made. Started a few days ago by getting a used engine block and crankshaft. The block turned out to have a lot of damage from a spun rear main thrust bearing. Would have required major machining, probably an insert. Used it as a doner block to fix my old block. Got the piece welded in and painted over the Devcon steel putty with Glyptol. Need a connecting rod and and engine kit now. Phil
It looks like there's nothing stopping it from running at this point. Please post the rebuild. I'm not very good at it, but I seem to find myself doing such work more often these days.
Nice, good luck with it!
good job! I did the same on a guys engine years ago worked great. nice patina.
Patina? Is that a Spanish word? I got the engine kit ordered, $1102 Can. from my machinist, I believe it's an A & I kit, also got a connecting rod coming from Fawcett Tractor. I'm thinking seriously of taking the balance shafts out and blocking the oil passage. I don't think I can get bushings for the shafts. I welded the broken flywheel housing with that cheap Air Liquid "econo cast" rod and still have to weld a piece on the broken crankshaft pulley. Apparently this engine is one of few that has cam bearings that have to be line bored when installed, so I'm not sure what to do about this. The front cam bearing does have some wear, although the rest appear to be tight on the cam. Phil
Fuel Tank location?? I have a 1977 2500a with a marine tank on the roof for fuel.... Anyone know where the real fuel tank is supposed to be?? thanks! Rene
Very nice work,Phil ! I am in way to do the same but with bores welding to block on a V8 International H90e with DVT-573 engine.Photos next coming in thread"h90e engine problems" subject " wheel Loaderrs" . You must open a bottle of Champagne when you will turn the key "ON" to turn it for first time...just pay attention of all is in place and it will run great!
Gadget, My 3500 fuel tank is in front of the rear tire on the left side. On the right side, a similar box houses the batteries with extra room for tools. Very little info out there on IH backhoes. George, Looking forward to your thread. I will be posting some more pictures once the parts arrive, showing her slow revival. Phil
Updating the work on my IH 3500A hoe. Kit from A&I had everything I needed. Fawcett Tractor supplied the correct connecting rod. I'm glad I marked the timing gears, even though all the factory marks were there. The fuel pump drive gear had a dot on 6 different teeth, numbered one through 6. Without a service manual to explain, I had to use my grinder marks. Replaced the flywheel bolts with new grade 8 bolts. The old ones had bent from the engine coming to a stop so suddenly. Left the balancer shafts out and plugged the oil hole. Got a complete new clutch and water pump from Fawcetts. I have yet to weld a piece on the front pulley and machine it. Phil
I forgot to add that it took about 3 hours to weld that patch on the outside of the block, about 1/8"at a time. After grinding the weld smooth I could see tiny cracks in the weld. The rod I was using is too hard to peen. With the broken flywheel housing I just ground out a V and welded non-stop using DC straight polarity. More pics coming. Phil
Thanks Phil; mine's a 1977 & has some bolt holes & shadow marks inside the cab both left & right - there appears to be a dead-end line on the right side, tho, & the battery is already mounted up front, behind the engine.... Gadgets (Rene)
nice looking project
Got the engine in, a tight fit using a forklift coming in from side. Engine sits very low and the oil pan is not far off the ground. The front engine mount slides over the axle pivot pin. Got the correct oil filter today by asking for one used in an IH 574 tractor. Phil
Phil can't wait to see it come to life.....IH'S are up there in my book....my grandpa had a dealership and sold IH medium and heavy duty trucks for 30 years....what year is it?
Gadget - some old Int. fuel tanks were under the sheet metal that seat is mounted on Fuel fill would be half way back on top of right fender
Ghitch75, Not sure of the year, maybe mid-70's. So very little info out there although I did find a parts book for the 3500A for sale on-line. I was hoping to find a service manual. Got the oil cooler/radiator on today and put coolant in it. Found out my mechanical coolant temp gauge is not working. I have to fab up an air breather as there was none with the machine. The previous picture shows the fuel tank between the front and rear wheels. It has no drain and someone has cobbled up a fill spout. Phil
Final picture. Injectors needed new nozzles, engine sounds good, lots of power. Did some digging with it, not like any other machine I've ever run. It's a direct drive machine with a reverser lever by the steering column. Similar to an older JD backhoe in many ways. The hood flips up like a car from the 70's. Phil
Looks good Phil! Now all you need is some decals.
Nice job looks real good
Thanks guys, the decals would be nice, the IH emblem has a nice red 'I' in it. Forgot to mention that the engine has a deep-throated sound inside the cab. There is a muffler attached to the exhaust manifold. A piece of history. Phil
Phil, That is a great looking paint job. I was wondering how you prep the machine before painting. Do you spend a lot of time sanding the rust ? Or do you sandblast it ? Are you real fussy about getting all the rust off ? Do you prime the entire machine before applying the finish coat of paint. What is your favorite type or brand of primer ? The reason I have so many questions is that I am going to paint my Case 680 and need a some advice on how to prep it. Thanks , Tinkerer
I send the machine out, painter does it all. Sorry I can't help you. Phil
Tinkerer, I ain't no painter (hate the stuff), but I have fooled around with a bit of the prep. The first thing is a serious cleaning to remove grease/oil. If your going to do the work yourself, it really all depends on how good a finished job you want. If you want it slick, you have to prep the rusty spots. Heavy pitting would require body filler or at least spot putty. A D-A sander is necessary to feather the edges of missing paint. I've always used an automotive type primer that thins with Laquer thinner, and you prime the whole machine before you apply finish paint. Most important, mask your cylinder rods. Nothing drives me more crazy than having a machine come back from a paint shop with paint on the chrome of the cylinder rods. :Banghead As for the paint or paint process, I don't do that.
Good info ATCOEQUIP, I steam cleaned the whole machine about ten weeks ago . It seems every time I want to get serious about finishing the painting, another job comes up and I have to get it dirty again. I haven't owned it very long and the previous owner never repaired anything unless it got so bad he couldn't use it. That is another reason I keep delaying the final stages of the paint job. Seven hydraulic cylinders have been repacked so far and I have lost count of how many hoses have failed. I do not abuse the machine it just seems that the repairs never end. The mechanical repairs would need another thread to describe them. Sorry Phil I didn't mean to hijack your thread but one question always seems to lead to another.
Well heck man, start us a thread and show us some pics of the beast. Hey Phil, did the painter do anything inside the cab? If I remember those old I-H machines, they didn't have a seat that would spin around, the flipped backwards to have a seat for hoe operation.
ATCOEQUIP, I will take some photos of the beast (it is a BEAST!)tomorrow and post them in a new thread. I love everyones pictures that are posted ! I will also list some of the repairs I have done so other members will realize they are not alone when it comes to never ending repairs on machines of any age.
Nope, no paint inside cab, need more cash for that . There were some original decals inside that were to frail to mask over, so we decided to leave it the way it was. I'm beginning to look at some of these machines as a piece of history and preserving the character they have. Yes the seat is that funky flip up and over style, but it does work well, as does the hood. Paint is Cat yellow(from Cat) with bright orange added, mixed 18:1. Fenders and exhaust are high temperature flat black which is brushed on, as no brush marks show with that paint. No primer needed for Cat yellow. Phil
You need to get some pics of those decals, and measure the size of them. The guy that makes my decals can make new ones from pics. I've sent him pics of Japanese Kanji text decals, which I contract a fellow in San Diego to translate the text, then Brent has to make the decal like the original exept with the English translated text. I'd say he's wanted to choke me on several occasions.
Nice job Dean
I have bad news to report, I sold it today . I guess I won't need any decals. The good news is that I bought a 580K to fix up, so I'm not without a backhoe . Phil
Dang...was the paint even dry???
"Dang...was the paint even dry???" Just barely. The mosquitoes and deer flies were starting to practice landing on the hood . Phil
you just got it done and it's gone?.....you do some good work Phil.....how many hoe's you had over the years?......any pic's of the K?
Wonderful resurrection! Too bad you sold it before you could enjoy your work.
"how many hoe's you had over the years?......any pic's of the K?" About 30 machines, I like backhoes. K pictures to come, it's very rough. "Too bad you sold it before you could enjoy your work." That's the way it goes, there is always another one. I've had a couple that I really liked and wanted to keep. Phil