i have a mid 60,s 580 deisel that i got 3 months ago and have been working on ever since. initially pump pressure was low and the unit would only nudge itself. i pulled the valve body off and found the screen pretty clogged. checked the spool and relief valves, put in new gaskets and put it together.i now have 300 psi and the outlet port of the filter and converter pressure with all in neutral sits at 38 psi. this is where the problems start. shuttle pressure with all in neural sits at about 150 but drops to 100 and even lower as the tractor warms up. the converter pressure drops to about 18 with the shuttle engaged [no difference whether in forward or reverse], but swings back to 38 with the shuttle in neutral. the thing appears to run ok for quite a long time with the backhoe removed but a lot less when it was on[probably the extra weight] and then the slippage starts. things that i find strange is that the shuttle pressure drops to 0 whenever the clutch is depressed and my case manual states that it should be about 30. what i am trying to do is to isolate the problem to either the shuttle or converter. any and all assistance is welcome sam
Sam, I like the way you've presented your problem, lots of detail. I'd like to focus on your dash gauge pressure first, falling off when warm. You obviously have a more accurate gauge in place of it. Would you check the dump valve adjustment; 3.1" from the center of the cam follower bearing to the center of the rear 1/4"NC bolt that holds the cam follower bearing support, on. Check with clutch released(foot off). Check that the clutch pedal returns to it's stop, after you take your foot off it. Just a basic check. Disconnect the 2 lines going to the front cooler/filter and blow through them. looking for any restriction to flow, a collapsed hydraulic hose, plugged cooler, or restrictive filter. If you haven't already replaced the filter, then replace it. I have a NAPA # if you need it. Satisfy yourself that this part of the circuit has no flow problems. Where in Ontario are you? Phil
first of all phil thanks for responding and to answer your queries. first of all i was not sure of the dash guage so i temporarily hooked up another one for the shuttle and one for the converter so that i could see what was happening. the clutch is set at 3.1" as per manual and is retracting. the filter has been replaced and fluids renewed. i am in the little town of loretto about 20 miles south of alliston ontario. sam
Been thinking about your problem today. This copied text is interesting. "With the control valve flow spool in the engaged position"( foot off clutch pedal)"the oil flows around the flow spool through a passage to the pressure regulator valve. The pressure regulator valve regulates the pressure and flow of oil to the power shuttle control spool" (gear selector spool) "and passes the remainder of the oil to the torque converter." Pushing the clutch pedal down and losing all converter charge pressure just does not make sense. I have to read up on this a little more. Try blowing compressed air through cooler/ filter line assembly, also do you have the part # for the upper valve body gasket that you used? Phil
i am in complete agreement on that . i have already blown compressed air through the lines. with regard to the gaskets i do see in my parts diagram that there are two different ones and unfortunately the info has already been tuffed but i can go back to the dealer and get the info. phil i know that i checked the serial #,s prior to ordering but that is not to say that i got the correct ones. i will find out tomorrow and let you know as if that is the case it could explain a few things.when the clutch is depressed i lose not only converter pressure but shuttle pressure also. thanks a pile for your input sam
Sam, Just curious how your pump looked when you had it out, did you take it apart? Are you able to get on CNH to look at the parts for your tractor? If so you can verify the gasket part #'s for your tractor. Have you had the converter pressure regulator valve apart? Have you had the clutch pressure regulator valve apart, did the springs look okay? Still guessing, Phil
well phil, when i pulled the shuttle valve body to clean the screen i did indeed take both the converter aND SHUTTLE PRESSURE REGULATING VALVES APART and checked for spring length etc . and all was fine . i also at this time pulled the pump apart and checked the relief valve and all looked good. you did however give me something to think about and that is the two upper gaskets on the valve body. my parts book indicates that after a certain tractor serial number that these two changed as they have a different parts number. the thing that i am now wondering is whether or not i have the right two as the serial number on the tractor is long gone. . from what i have read also is that the upper one could be placed either way. my case book shows the 2 upper gaskets as A37544fot the oil distribution plate and A37545 for the control valve on tractors with serial numbers prior to #8314666 and A38029[oil distribution plate] and A38030 [control valve] after serial # 8314666. right now until i find my invoice based on the fact that the serial # plate is gone i am really not sure which ones went in . hopefully if it,s not pouring rain tomorrow i will pull the top off the valve body and see. keep the ideas coming sam
the trouble may well be elsewhere phil but i am reluctant to split the tractor ontil a probable cause lines up with all the symptoms. right now i am going to check out the gaskets. what do you think? sam
Sam, I just noticed, in my CK service manual, the change starting at serial #8314666. Apparently the converter is dumped in the neutral circuit prior to, and charged in the neutral circuit after 8314666. This will explain part of the puzzle, as you probably have the prior design, however I have run out of time, talk to you later. Phil
phil, pouring rain today and shop is full. i did however find a part # on the upper valve assembly that i have not been able to find in my parts book . it is A38032. are you able to line it with anything as i think if i can nail it down i should be able to determine the correct gaskets sam
Sam, Just to go back and answer one question you had, with the early model, pre 8314666, you will lose shuttle pressure when depressing the clutch pedal, same as in later models. Usually the clutch pedal doesn't have to be moved far to see the pressure drop and as you can see by the cam, the 'flow spool' moves forward quickly at first. I am still suspicious of the setting of this spool, as it would explain some loss of oil if not adjusted properly. Would you go back and adjust this spool out(to the rear) a bit more, maybe to 3.2"? I use a very long 1/2"extension with a universal and 3/4"socket to reach the nut on the cam pivot bolt. As you probably know the bolt has an eccentric on it. The roller bearing and bolt connecting the roller to the spool tends get loose and not one of Case's better ideas. I can't get on the Case site this morning, so I can't check your upper valve body # to verify it's an early one, or the gasket #'s. Phoning your Case dealer and asking for info re your recent gasket(s) purchase, should get you the # of all 3 main gaskets that you replaced. I can post a picture of the later upper gasket if you wish, as I now keep all 3 gaskets in stock, for fear of them being discontinued, and losing the pattern. I guess now I will have to get another. Did you replace the 2 seals that go under the pump when you had it off? Phil
phil,the problem that i have is that the old gaskets were tuffed so i am not 100% sure that i have the correct ones in. as previously stated the tractor serial # is long gone and the only thing i have to go on is the upper valve assembly # of A38032. as for clutch adjustment i have already tried moving it out some with no change and the oil pump o rings were replaced. i have no idea if incorrect gaskets could cause some of my problems but that is a place to start. i have had no luck connecting with cnh as it appears they are off line. what i am trying to do now is to determine which gaskets belong to this valve assembly.
Sam, I was able to get on CNH tonight: http://www2.casece.com/wps/portal/c...CaseCE&brandsite_language=en&brandsite_geo=NA Click on 'Launch Parts Catalog', when the CNH page loads, type in 580, go down to 580Case Construction King, scroll down to 096(late) or 097A(early). I was able to find the reference to A38032 valve as part of a valve assembly, probably only available with fitted spools. This was on the early 097A page, pre serial #8314666. The early 3 main gaskets are from top down are A37545, A37544, and A37517. On page 096, serial # 831666 up, the late 3 main gaskets are from top down are A38030, A38029, and A37517. The converter relief valve gaskets are the same on both pages. I think you have the early model and need 2 early gaskets A37545(top) and A37544(middle). Your Case parts guy should be able to go back on the computer and tell what gaskets you bought. They are usually pretty helpful. Try a call. I posted a pic of the pre 8314666 shuttle valve page. I noted that the pressure regulator valve uses a double spring on the later model and a single spring on the early model. I went back and read your first post and want to re-confirm that the 'dash' gauge pressure falls as the machine warms up, when in neutral, not when in forward or reverse. Phil
well phil i went out today and rechecked every thing and results are as follow,. With engine cold and about 1500 rpms with clutch engaged and shuttle in neutral pressure is 150 psi. With clutch depressed it is 0 psi. With clutch engaged and shuttle in forward or reverse pressure is 110. with clutch engaged and shuttle in neutral converter pressure is 38. and 0 with clutch disengaged. with engine fully warmed up pressures are as follow.. With clutch engaged and shuttle in neutral pressure is 150. with clutch engaged and shuttle in either forward or reverse pressure is 80... so between cold and hot it drops at least 30 psi. the one thing i might mention is that it starts slipping in 4th a lot quicker with the backhoe on.. i am still not clear why the pressure in neutral drops to 150 when it is isolated from the clutches etc. a friend suggested that it might be worn seals or worn sealing rings in the torque tube area. i have taken the assembly off and the gaskets appear correct and i have taken pictures but do not know how to send them to you sam
Sam, If you could clarify this: "i am still not clear why the pressure in neutral drops to 150 when it is isolated from the clutches etc". If you mean the drop in pressure, from the test at the converter filter(300 psi), that's the pressure regulating valve doing just what it's supposed to do. I may have got confused right from the first post on this problem. The same dash pressure both hot and cold, in neutral, with foot off the clutch. That is good . You can add shims(flat washers) behind the pressure regulator valve, to bring this up to the spec. 170 -190 psi, the next time you have the valve assembly off. Let me know if you want a 'thickness' dimension. At low idle, you should have the same pressure, it doesn't need to be at 1500 rpm in my opinion. That dash needle should never change Sam, hot, cold, high / low idle, as long as the foot is off the clutch and it's in neutral. Now we can move on; you probably have the correct gaskets too. In forward or reverse: cold you have 110 psi, and hot 80 psi. The difference is because of oil viscosity. The drop in pressure is not good and is most likely in your clutch packs, not your converter. Yes it can be leakage in the 3 housing rings that direct the clutch apply oil into the shaft(or valve body gaskets). But there are many other places to leak, usually in the clutch packs. In my experience, just because it's the same pressure drop in either gear, doesn't mean the problem is not in the shuttle clutch packs. If you've been easy on the machine and not slipped the clutches too much they most likely will be alright. They are quite robust. Hopefully you have a Rockwell shuttle. Let me know if I have interpreted the info your last post correctly. Phil
New to forum samk, sorry to impose on you & phil. I'm a total newbie unable to start a new thread. I'm looking to purchase my first backhoe - for ditch digging, timber clearing, bridge building with corrugated pipe across a small stream, filling in an old swimming pool, etc...etc.. on 12 acres of ground. I have my eyes on a 1987 Case 680K 2WD machine, up for sealed bid by a local municipality. It has 6250 hours, and has been owned by this municipality since new. I talked to the head wrench at the shop where it is kept, who has worked on the machine for the past 18 years. No major problems to report, and he showed me the maintenance history files. From what I can research, this machine was only made for 5 years? Any feedabck on the 680K would be appreciated. What would a '87 680K in good condition be worth? She is one Big machine, but I believe I have the room to use it.
well phil, it is correct that pressure in neutral does not change hot or cold regardless of rpm,s but i should clarify that the pressure when the tractor is hot and in gear at low rpm,s [700] does drop as low as 60 but as the rpm,s pick up it goes back to 80. by the way do you know how to post pictures as i have the assembly apart with pictures. thank,s for all of your help
Sam, Sorry if I sounded blunt in my last post, these units are labour intensive. I've made a few mistakes with them in the past, and don't want anybody to be fooled like I was. Dropping to 60 psi in gear, hot, at low idle is not unusual, I have seen them with no pressure showing on the gauge. The shuttle pump in my opinion actually supplies far more oil than needed to make up for minor sealing ring leaks, and I have seen quite a few with visibly worn pumps, still moving the machine. Pictures have to be shrunk a little to post. I will PM you with how I do it, so as not to get off topic on your thread, please check your mail. Racer, I'm not familiar with the newer 580 or 680 models, so I can't tell you about any inherent problems. Check the 'machinery trader' online, for an idea on machine value. The hours sound okay, probably work good for you, certainly a powerful machine. The upside is the verifiable background, the downfall is that it's a 680, not popular when reselling, it's heavy, only 2 -wheel drive, and used/aftermarket parts are much harder to find. It could last you for years and years, might be a problem with it so if you could talk to an operator who has used it recently.......Phil
Photos Here are photos , can you make any sense out of them? Another photo in next message. Sam.
1 more photo. Heres' my last photo. Sam
Sam, I don't think you need to read my PM , you have it down pat. I will post the pictures of the 2 new, upper, later gaskets I have, tomorrow, so you should be able to tell which ones you have. Phil
Phil,
Phil, thanks for your reply.
I will second what phil said sam, you presented your experiences very well .. it was easy to understand & follow without having to be an expert. Tom
Sam, Here they are, top gasket A38030 and middle gasket A38029. Used starting serial # 8314666. I'm going to phone in an order Monday for A37545 and A37544, used prior to serial # 8314666, so I have them in stock, and can post a picture of them when they arrive, Sam. Phil
I just purchase a580ck (1969) with the same problem.. Please keep up the dialog. Both of you have given me a lot of information helping me solve my problem...
phil, the gaskets that i took off align with the pictures that you posted i.e. a38030 and a38029 plus they do seem to align with the valve assembly etc. but this does not agree with the assembly number a38032 that you tracked down and seem to be affiliated with the other 2.. in any case if i have not said it thank you so much for all your help sam
Sam, Your welcome. However, the fact that you lose all pressure in the converter charge lines, when the clutch pedal is depressed, using the late gaskets, does not make sense. Do you have one or 2 springs behind your shuttle pressure regulator valve? I still believe your machine is before serial # 8314666. I ordered those 2 early gaskets today, numbers were good. Should have them by Wednesday. Sometimes a machine serial # is stamped under the metal decal. Check again where the serial # plate used to be. I am not sure if a CK has it located the same place as a B, on the right side of the steering column, just below the hand throttle I believe. Phil
i have 2 springs behind the shuttle pressure valve and i did again check where the serial # should be and all i have is 2 holes where the revits used to be sam
Sam, I wonder what kind of pump pick-up tube you have, I see the early one has a goose neck in it. Posting picture of the late one, early picture on page 1. I'm not sure what to tell you at this point, short of trying the 2 early gaskets in it. Phil
hi phil, well as you know i pulled the top two plates off the bottom adapter of the 580 and lined everythying up with my case manual and i am 99% sure that they are the correct gaskets, i then proceeded to blow out every opening that there was and put 3 shims in front of the shuttle valve and the results with the motor warm are as follow;;shuttle pressure with shuttle in neutral and clutch engaged is 200[was 150], shuttle pressure with clutch depressed is 0{was0] ,shuttle pressure with clutch engaged in fwd is 140 [was 80],shuttle pressure with clutch engaged and in rev, is 120 [was 70], converter pressure with shuttle in either fwd or rev. with clutch engaged is 35 and -the really strange thing now is that it sits at 35-38 with the clutch disengaged. i am beginning to think now that i may have to look at shuttle seals to get pressure up to 170-190 what do you thinkk sam
Sam, Yes I think you are losing oil in the shuttle clutch pack somewhere, but these "really strange things" keep coming up. One last attempt to determine if you have A37546, A38031, A38300, or A38434 valves. A37546 is the machine pre serial # 8314666 valve. All use the same pressure regulator valve, but only A37546 uses a different flow spool. It actually looks different with only 2 machined lands instead of 3. CNH shows it updating, I believe, to the later spool valve, if you want to order a new one. This is on page 101C. Look at your flow spool( the one the clutch pedal moves) and see if it has 2 lands(A37551-early) or 3(A38033-late), see the attached picture for the difference in appearance. My manual shows oil flowing differently around these 2 different flow spools, possibly giving either a charged or uncharged converter with the clutch pedal down. Phil
phil, i have the a38033 valve and it does have the 3 lands.am going to pull the shuttle out tomorrow, weather permitting. do you have any tips on what i should be looking for? sam
Sam, I picked up the early upper valve gaskets today and they are different. If you pull the shuttle out, post a picture of it, so I know which one you have. Note if there is any wear in the bore of the torque tube where the 3 sealing rings run. Does your service manual show a break-down of the shuttle unit or dis-assembly instructions? Phil
Hi Phil, I have a 580B ser. # 8727034 I am looking for the gaskets you keep talking about. One for the top valve and one for the lower plate. From me reading your posts here it looks like I need part #'s A380029 and A380030 is this correct? Thanks.
hi phil, yes my manual does cover assembly and disassembly and as soon as i get it out i will send you a picture. as i have not worked on one before it will be a slow methodical process and your experience will be invaluable. my dad used to say that most, if not all good decisons are the result of experience, but that sometimes that experience comes as the result of a real screwup. i am still a bit confused as to where these 3 sealing rings are in the torque tube is it possible that i could get a part # or whatever so i can nail iy down in my parts book.. thanks again sam
Sam, I see the 3 main shaft sealing rings are only shown as a kit(of 3), on CNH, part # is A43258. Shown in the picture as #38. Elcactus, You will need the adapter housing gasket also, the bottom gasket, if you take the large adaptor plate off, part #A37517. Along with the top gasket A38030 and the middle gasket A38029, you should have the converter regulator valve gasket #G46824. The 2 pump seals should be replaced if you take the large adaptor plate off, part #A7075. Phil
Thanks Phil, I just ordered the parts. The problem I am having is trans oil is coming out around the bolt head near the fitting/line that goes to trans pressure guage. I hope its only a gasket.
well phil , finally got a chance to get back at the old 580 and got the tractor separated today i have checked my manual and it states to wire the shuttle together and apply pressure at the front to ease it out. mine appears to slide easily for about an inch and then goes hard. the manual makes no mention of removing the rear gear on the countershaft, but there is probably something really stupid that i am missing any ideas sam. p.s. as soon as i get it out i will send photos
Sam, Good weather for working, not too hot. I don't remember ever having a summer this cool. Only had the central air on twice this year, so far. Remove the countershaft gear, it comes off easy, just note which way it goes back on. The shuttle assembly will then slide right out the back. The rear drum just slides on the back of the shuttle assembly....so either pull it off first(note the thrust bearing components) or with the assembly. Note the shims on the transmission shaft, and leave them there if you wish. They control shuttle assembly end play. Attached a picture of the Rockwell shuttle, note the bands around the notched drums. If your shuttle doesn't look like this one you have my condolences. Phil
phil, could not wait until tomorrow to get it out and with the countershaft gear out, no problem. it does seem strange that my case manual would not mention that little point. in any case i did check the torque tube area where the sealing rings sit and there i a tiny indentation where they sit[maybe .001] . and the question now is what if anything can be done with these. i have not really gone over the discs but externally they look not bad. what should the approximate thickness be sam
Good thread guys. I have a 1967 580 CK gas engine with many issues. I'm following along with interest.
Ruffa, Not too many gas hoes left out there. Sam, I don't have a dimension on disc thickness or assembled pack thickness. Look at the lines on the lining for wear, it's possible a transmission shop could advise you, or compare with a new one. As far as I know, its not a critical dimension on these clutch packs. Look for warped or discolored plates. I have some new Twin Disc plates but they are probably different. Wear in the torque tube housing hole sounds minimal. Remove the 3 sealing rings and check them for side wear, there will be a lip if there is, the middle one will be worn on both sides. Keep them in the same order and rotation if you intend to reuse them. Some come out looking as new, others I've seen are worn bad. The rings are clipped together when installed. The ring can be clipped back together and pushed into the torque tube exactly where it ran before. Note if the gap in the hook is closed or if there is still room to allow for wear before the ring will no longer open any more. More than likely you will end up replacing them and doing this test with the new rings. I believe they were $100 for the set of 3 from Case. Do you have the Rockwell clutch pack disassembly instructions in your book? Phil
yes phil , i do have the instructions for the disassembly and assembly of the shuttle and am raking it apart today to chek on what i may need. the slight grooves in the torque tube worry me some but i do not have enough experience to know if something should be done or even what as i dread the thought of pulling the entire thing apart having it bored and re-sleeved. i was very surprised to find that the pickup screen was again partially clogged as the sump ares were spotless when i last had it apart but it appears to be a mixture of silicon and possibly the remains of what may have been part of a shop rag. i will keep you posted of progress sam
well phil, i have rebuilt the shuttle and did find some worn sealing rings but it is together now with all new rings etc. i will be putting it back together early next week and will let you know the outcome sam
Sam, I meant to tell you that all the metal sealing rings used throughout the shuttle assembly, should be carefully checked in the bore they fit in. Remove each one and place it in the bore where it normally travels after clipping the ends together. Note if the ring maintains an outward pressure in the bore or if the 'ends' of the ring, touch. Some service manuals suggest looking at the gap between the clips and if the ring gap is more than 1/2 way to closing, replace the ring or housing or both. As long as there is a portion of the gap left you will be okay for a time. Make sure all the bores are polished to minimize scratch damage. Make sure the spacers with the internal teeth, one on each end, have a snap ring on each side. If this is not done correctly the shuttle will not work at all, don't ask how I know. Note that only the 2 thrust washers(on either side of the thrust bearing), on the forward end, are 1/8 thick, the other 4 are 1/16" thick. The sealing ring with the square cross-section should be greased before installing and can't be removed without damage unless the groove is filled. The accelerator pistons must be free to slide. Air test after you slide the shuttle back in the torque tube. The adaptor plate must be removed and then identify the 2 holes you blow through before sliding the shuttle in. Use oil in the holes if needed and at least 100 psi. I consider the air test a must, if you can get a good seal on the shaft, it can be done on the bench also. Do not let the rear drum slide to the rear at any time during the assembly of the torque tube to the transmission case. Check for rear drum end play, as the book states, only after the housings touch and during bolt tightening. Good luck, Phil
thanks for the info but i had the factory manual plus i took pictures of each of the disassemly steps and they were invaluable as it is amazing how some steps seem so straightforward at disassembly but are not all that clear 2 weeks down the road sam
Great stepping guys, this is a wonderful forum.
well phil, got it together today and got it fired[still alot to hook up] converter pressure is at about 32 drops momentarily when engaging the shuttle and then returns almost imediately to 32. shuttle pressure after idling for 10 minutes sits at 175 for both forward or reverse. i wll have the rest hooked up in a day or so and will see how it performs when working. i will keep you posted sam
well phil, sorry to be so long getting back to you , but with that god-awful winter almost upon us things have been busy. now back to the backhoe since i rebuilt the shuttle it has been running and pushing like a bear. thank you once again for all of your help sAM
Your welcome Sam. I'm sure she will do lots of work for you. Phil
Phil & company... after reading this thread, I really realise what kind of deep muck ( mechanically speaking ) I am in. The most complicated thing I've ever rebuilt was the head on my water softener. Recently dived in & bought a 1973 580B ( power shuttle ) which, as it turns out, was in worse shape than I realised. The previous owner assured me that it had a refresh motor with less than 20 hours on it... but I now realise, after seeing the oil leaking from the forward bell housing, that it was likely an in-frame rebuild that didn't get to the bottm end... so I'm guessing rear main seal. So it looks like the machine will have to be split to deal with the leak. Could you give me a list of what should be done/checked while the machine is apart? Like the rest of the 580's here, this puppy doesn't exactly get up & go. I'm dealing with the leaky hydraulic cylinders one by one and the wiring is, well... let's notgo there just yet. If I get this thing apart I should probably make it worthwhile. What are my best options for torque converter/ clutch rebuild? Are there places locally... Belleville/ Kingston area... that rebuild this stuff? Fwiw... just got some front end parts from the local Case dealer and I feel like I've been bent over the work bench and violated. You don't do this sort of thing ( shuttle rebuild, etc ) by any chance, do you? regards...d2r
d2r - Phil is AWOL - he hasn't been here for a while & considering we are all addicted to HEF it seems strange.......we're all hoping everything is OK with him. He sure is missed, he seems to enjoy the challenges presented by early 580's. You need to split the tractor to be able to repair the rear main. A daunting job if you have never done one or seen one before. They are not too difficult to do if you use some common sense. I would sugest you find a service manual to guide you through your repairs. Seems to be some free downloads around for these early tractors - bit risky though..... Regards your shuttle - you best try to find a mechanic with a case background. You wont be able to just take it anywhere to be fixed (after you get it out) - even Case dealers wont have the staff who have probably ever seen one. After market sources for those early models (CK,B trans shuttle parts) are non existent here, I'm guessing the same there. I've always used OE.
Really sorry to hear that... sounds like the kind of guy... you were stranded on that deserted island, he'd be everybody's first pick for a wingman. Fortunately, my wife's uncle is a kind of mechanical savant... he's been restoring motorcycles & cars since he could shave... and has an amazing workshop to boot. Figure I could maybe get him to help me rebuild some stuff if I can yank it out and show up weeping on his doorstep. Probably should have popped for a newer machine, but the idea of resurrecting some "Old Iron" just had this appeal. I guess it's the Irish in me. Figured I was gonna suddenly grow me an autocad-like brain & magic hands, but it's a little more intimidating than I thought. Maybe should've spent less time around computers and more around wrenches, welding equipment and milling machines. C'est la vie, huh? Really love to hear from anyone who's been down this road.
Did you find your leak? Bell housing is full of oil, try torquing bolts to engine.
xxx
Hello folks, Im new here and having some trouble with my 580B. For some reason it is blowing transmission fluid out of the shuttle valve breather. Any ideas on this???????????
blowing transmission fluid Is this a reservoir breather? Is it overfilled? If not it either has an internal leak or something is over pressurizing that area. The 580B is different then my older 580ck which has a hydraulic reverser. On mine if you had blow-by in the engine and/or a leaky rear main crank seal it could put engine oil into to the reverser cavity. Or like I had, get coolant from a failed transcooler/radiator into the trans. That would be my guess! If its hot it could steam out of the trans breather. ****
Thankyou. This is the same shuttle-converter/control that phil posted a scymatic of on page 1 of this thread. It is blowing oil by the quart. I ran it about 3-4 minutes and it blew out over a gallon
Sleepyhollow, I guess I'm pretty much in the same boat. Have you emptied the torque tube to see if youhad it over filled? I think I'll drain mine completly and measure what I put back in to insure that it isn't over filled. Packratc