We've have this guy sitting in the back of our barn for a few years now. It actually belongs to the neighbor, but it got stranded here and parked whenever we borrowed it, because one of the tracks suddenly died. I'm tired of it just sitting back there, and I'd really like to get it going again. Anybody have experience with these? About all I know about it is that is was made between 1962 and 1966, and has a 4 cylinder 166 CDI diesel engine.
Also, where do I check all the fluid levels? I believe I will go out tomorrow and try to start it up. EDIT: I would also wondering whether this was hydrostatic or mechanical drive.
Ok it is like a tractor most of those were manuel transmissions or other wise called direct drive and most likely the clutches or clutch springs are out on that side that won't pull you basically have to do some what of a major tear down and find and repair the problem ....you will have to split the track and take off the sprocket and then the housing i beleive
Another bit of info, the hydraulics go kaput after it runs a while. If you shut it off and let it sit and cool a bit, they will come back up.
I have a T340 gas burner. The track sides are driven through a set of planetary rings held by a brake pad on each side. you may have a side not locking down and holding. there is a spring in the center which can be tightened. remove rear access plate and you can see it and what else might be going on. have someone pull the levers while looking in the back. this is valid if you don't have a final failure. hydraulic fading could be due to plugged filters on the lower right side or a worn out pump. look at a 340 wheel tractor on CASEIH website as everything is the same back to the differential housing whereupon they installed the steering system in place of a normal differential. it is a precursor to the design of the TD15 and TD20 machines. have been all the way through mine if you have any questions.
Thanks a lot for your reply, wrwtexan. I'm going out now to start looking at tearing it down.
Ok, I figured out more about what's going on. It will move forwards and backwards in a straight line. Pull on the left stick, and it will turn. If you pull on the right stick, it will just sit there whenever you let out on the clutch. You can hear the transmission turning though. And you were all right about the mechanical drive. You put it gear, and let out on the clutch to move. The sticks are just for turning.
Here's a video I took of it moving just a few minutes ago. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xh_RJnqywso I popped the rear hatch off like you said in order to take a peek. I didn't really expect to be inundated with hydraulic fluid though. I guess I should have expected that. Here are a couple of pics. I still have no idea what I'm really looking at. I'll have to wait until someone else gets here before I can do much else with it. I suppose I'll totally have to tear the rear end apart in order to repair anything that's out? https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.ne...360693163_1402570080_33617721_721600791_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.ne...62613211_1402570080_33617732_1184165823_n.jpg
mine has a six way blade so it is easier to work on. these little machines will not drift steer and must be braked to make a turn. as a result, one side will make it move as if both sides are pulling. when you pulled the left steering lever and it moved, the right side was pulling it. when you pulled the right lever and it didn't move, you isolated the failed drive to the left side. it is a simple straight shaft out of the planetary which is held stopped by a brake caliper into the final drive pinion down into the bull gear. sorry about the oil dump. look up with a flashlight into the left side of the rear case at the top left end of the "differential" assembly and sun ring and you will see a fixed pad on the outside and a movable pad on the inside. a vertical spring is mounted in the center to apply pressure to both sides. with the sun ring stopped, power is transferred through the planetary. when it is released, the output shaft stops, along with the track. other possibilities include a planetary gearset, or pinion or bull gear failure. if those are okay, the caliper pads can be accessed by lifting off the rear cover.
Well, I don't know if you can tell much from this or not, but here's a picture of the inside of the diff. https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.ne...62613211_1402570080_33617732_1184165823_n.jpg
picture is too grainy. if you can't see the brake caliper or feel or detect a lack of clamping force on the sun disc, you may have to go deeper. I would remove the top first and you could jack up the left side and use a prybar to turn the ring gear and see if the problem is inside the planetary and sun ring, or further out in the final.
Most likely used up the friction areas the make it drive and turn it is best done in a shop with hoist,moderate disassembly is required and $500 in parts are recommended $800-1200 is the norm with $2k + possible for remachining if it has been neglected in total internal service How much does the owner want for it $ ?