Looking for a complete engine gasket set for an early 1990's Isuzu 6BD1T engine. NAPA or anyone I have contacted can't seem to find it. Does anyone have suggestions on how I could find one? Thanks
you will need the exact serial # and model stamped into the block just below the head in order to get the correct ones. I can usually get these if you don't have any luck
Give the guys at Hamilton Engine a call. The web link is below. http://www.hamiltonengine.com/contact.php The 6BD1 is out of production and the replacement is the 6BG1. I had to change one out is a roller a few years back and they look like the same engine. I believe the difference was air pollution specs. Good Luck!
Will give them a call John C. A question for you, went to start machine one cold day, fired right up, shut it off and it would not start or even hit again after it warmed up. So we started checking fuel rail, was good had fuel at all injectors, fuel shutoff was working. So we ended up pullin the head and sent it off for repair. The head shop says all exhaust valves were leaking compression bad and it needs all valve seals and the guides knurled or replaced. When we removed the exhaust manifold 3 of 6 ports were full of fine loose carbon or something that would blow with a puff of air. It also was putting compression in the crankcase when you turn the engine over. When you look in the cylinders it does not have much ring wear but I am unsure wheather I should put rings in it, in the existing liners or what to do next. Before this problem started it did have plenty of power and really did not smoke either, so I am thinking the problem may be in the head?? I also put some lightweight oil in the cylinders and just covered the top of the pistons to see if it would leak down through the rings, it took about 3 days for 3- of the cylinders to leak down and another 3- days more for the remaining 3 to leak down. I really do not know what I should do next. Any advice would be very helpful. The engine is the Isuzu 6BD1T. Advice will be greatly appreciated.
The leaking valves would probably account for a lot of the crankcase pressure on these engines. The liners are dry type and very thin. I've never seen one with much of if any wear. You don't mention how many hours you have on the unit but I would suspect a bit over 10,000 to have that kind of valve wear. I would clean the carbon off the top of the cylinders and throw it back together with the repaired head. Run it long enough to see if the head repair solved the problem and make a decision on what you want to do with the machine when you know how it runs. Isuzu motors generally run until they break. Change the oil on time, keep the cooling system up and you will have thousands of trouble free hours. The one issue I've always had with them is that parts are so expensive that it doesn't pay to do full rebuilds. The cost of the parts for a rebuild plus the labor to do it generally equals the cost of a new engine with a warranty.
If it has close to or more than 10K on it and you intend to run it longer, pull the pan and eyeball the rod and main bearings. Japanese diesels as a rule tend to live so long without getting tired and sloppy that the bearings will eventually get tired and spin. Set of inserts and a pan gasket don't cost all that much and if you know everything in the basement is good you might get another 5K or more out of her. Of course you can wait and see how it runs after the head goes back on before opening up more worm cans! LOL
The hour meter does not work and the unit was used so I have no idea how many hours are on it. I would say at least 10K or more. I did look at the liners closer and there is more wear than I previously thought. You can feel it catch your thumbnail as you rub over it. I did find a complete rebuild kit including new pistons and all bearings & gasket set for $1400.00 on Ebay. A gasket set alone from dealer was $338.00. What is the best way to clean the carbon off the top area of the cylinders?
Tool called a "Ridge reamer" You can buy, rent, or sometimes borrow one from your local auto parts store, tool rental yard, etc. They have a carbide blade that will cut the carbon and the unworn metal at the top of the liner so you can get pistons in and out without damage to the rings. If you do change rings or pistons and rings be sure to hone a crosshatch in the liners so the rings will seat in. I prefer the dingleberry style, but the three stone type is okay also.
Is there a tolerance or some way to determine if the wear in the liners are too much?
As I recall the old rule of thumb was ten thousandths of an inch maximum wear, measured with an inside mic or a dial bore gauge but the service manual will have that spec in it, no doubt in mm. As John C suggested call Hamilton Engines, these guys have always been very helpful to me. I would sort of tell the service manager the whole story in a nutshell and see what advice he had to offer.
I use a dull knife to knock off the carbon and then light sanding with emery cloth. If you feel a ledge after that, then you have a lot of wear. The injection pressure is very high and even with somewhat low compression that engine will still run like a top. Before you buy parts off Ebay you had better make sure they are the right ones. isuzu was like the Detroit line here with a couple of hundred different setups on the pistons, fuel pumps and settings.