To all Isuzu Guru's. Can i use my AA-4BG1T workshop manual to repair my DD-4BG1T? I am fixing a leak on the front timing cover which will require the removal of the camshaft and injection pump. From the outside it all looks the same i am just not sure about the inside. Also will it be faster to remove the radiator and oil cooler to get the camshaft out or remove and then re-install the motor? This is in a Link-Belt LX160 excavator. Looks to be 6 of 1 half dozen of the other!........TIO
bump, help!
I'd pull engine, cause if ya don't you will wish ya did...
They should be the same block and hard parts. I suspect the big differences are in the fuel system and head. I think you are right about the time for each. I would probably prefer to pull the engine and pump as a unit and leave the radiator and coolers alone. You have to drop the fan off into the radiator either way and its only four big bolts, two fuel lines, a couple of harness plugs and a half a dozen hydraulic hoses and you are ready to pick. I used to swap engines in Komatsu excavators in about six hours. I pulled a vacuum on the hydraulic tank and clamped a plate on the pump suction hose and capped the drain hoses off. I don't like to stand in precarious positions to work on engines. But then again I've heard those machines liked to run hot and pulling the cooling system would give you an opportunity to clean things out. Every time I've pulled the rads and coolers out it was a very dirty job. Good Luck and let us know how you do.
john c. why would you pull the hydraulic pump to pull the motor? On excavators i have had good luck hanging hydraulic pumps from a ratchet strap or chain hoist and leaving the hydraulic system fully close and lifting motors up between radiator and motor. Perhaps i am missing something? I like to change drive couplers the same way......TIO
I haven't worked on an excavator where I had room to pull the pump back or the engine forward enough to clear the bell housing and the radiator at the same time. It only took ten to fifteen minutes to pull the connections on the pump and lift the whole mess out at once. Maybe the Link-Belt and some other makes have enough clearance. I've just never worked on one that had it. I have also had a hard time separating the dry couplers when they have worn in.