Well the first non feline Cat got here this morning. She got a 3 hour hot water moderate pressure wash. Only hydraulic leak found is at the the rotary manifold on the circle. Now the fun begins with a complete service and diagnose a transmission issue. I drove it about two miles to my place from the drop off location. She was a little sluggish going to 4th gear forward. A/C not blowing cold. Scan tools are on the way. Again a big thanks to Nige for the priceless advice. Here are some pictures.
Wow, that looks "barely " used at all. Nice!
Here are a few more pics
Legdoc I'd like to follow progress on your grader. It's hard to follow when you open new threads. Can you just keep this one going. Thanks
Your advice is well taken and I agree. I will proceed with this thread.
Well the Cat man brought the scan tool which showed multiple events of 3 codes as follows. 1. E049 Coasting in neutral. 2. E627 Parking brake applied with machine in motion. 3. E762 Machine driven with cold transmission. The next step will be transmission pressure tests, full fluid and filter service including tranny screen inspection as advised by Nige. Cat is apparently having website problems and I am unable to download the operators/ maintenance manual.
All down to the nut that holds the steering wheel unfortunately.
Ok I received the maintenance records from TxDot today. 7/23 the tranny would not go into most gears, 4 solenoids tested bad and all transmission solenoids and valves were replaced by the dealer. Records also state 4 tranny valves also replaced. I'm not sure what they mean but there is one "new" nut and bolt on the valve body opposite of the solenoids. 2024 the dealer again inspected the continuing tranny issues and recommended a tranny overhaul. There was no indication of pressure tests being performed. So as previously stated we will proceed with new fluid , filter change and suction screen inspection followed by a pressure test. More to come boys and girls...
What you refer to as a solenoid I would call a coil. A complete “solenoid valve assembly” as shown in the illustration below comprises a centre section and a coil (Ref #1), which is available separately. My assumption reading what you posted above is that out of the 8 solenoid valve assemblies 4 were replaced as complete units and the other four simply had new coils installed on the existing valve bodies.
Nige, your illustration is correct and there are 8 "new" coils for sure. On the opposite side of the valve body there is also 1 new item of the 8. I am going to assemble a pressure gauge set to test the pressures. If memory serves you described the items to put together the gauges including the quick connect fitting and test procedure. By the way I was finally able to download the operators manual. One quick question Sir. I am ignorant, what is the advantage of SIS over a printed or download service manual?
Quite simply SIS is guaranteed to be the latest & greatest where a paper or pdf manual was only the “latest & greatest” on the day it was printed.
I would break out ET first and check for Diagnostic Codes.
Nige, am I to understand there are other tests to be done in addition to the previous ET test that gave the three codes described on Saturday?
Those three codes are only event warning codes. They won't cause clutch engagement issues. If there weren't any diagnostic trouble codes present, a pressure test of the clutches will tell what is going on. I had a 140H once that had low pressure in one clutch. Cat dealer had recommended overhaul. I found a cracked web in the aluminium valve body. When we ordered a new one, we found that there was a modified one available due to cracking of the former one. Not saying that this is your problem, but something to have in mind.
I am going to rig up some gauges. Would you know what size or which coupler fits the test ports?
If you do a search for Caterpillar quick coupler, you will find something.
It looks like the coupler is a Parker PD242.
Sorry I forgot that you already had ET hooked up to it. Pressure testing it is then. I suppose the question at this point ought to be are all the gears engaging.? Also note from the Test & Adjust that all eight clutches have different pressure settings. You're going to have to remove the short driveshaft between the transmission output and the differential to test pressures I would suggest that you don't attempt any pressure adjustments initially, simply read the pressures and note them.
There is a reason for that, because a special tool is required to set all the initial clutch pressures on the transmission. Specifically do not mess with any of the adjusting screw/locknut located at the opposite end of each of the eight sections of the control valve to the solenoids.
The Cat Part Number for the quick coupler that connects to the test points on the transmission control valve is 6V-4143 if that is any help. The thread in the other end of the coupler is 1/8" NPT. You will ideally need three identical gauge setups to test, because each speed in the transmission requires 3 clutches to be engaged to select that gear.
Thank you again gentlemen. Three test gauges it is! 500 PSI correct?
Correct. Actually either 500 or 600psi would do the job. I think the Cat guage called out in the procedure is 600psi.
How long should the hoses be? Also a 5000 PSI set-up might be a good idea while I'm at it, correct?
Also as a FYI someone has replaced the bottom outside valve. It is the only one with no paint and is still "shiny". I took a pic but having trouble attaching it. My son-in -law the computer expert will be here tonight. Get ready for more pics...
I would say 6 feet or so minimum - the Cat 177-7861 Part Number transmission test hoses are actually 14ft long but you don't need anything like that length. The gauges have to be moved around between the various test points so there is no point in running hoses all the way from the transmission to the cab. A 5000psi gauge would be needed for the steering and implement system testing.
Ok I got 4 test gauges put together today. Also notice the new component on the valve body. Last weekend I stripped the cab and cleaned it up. Found a little rust, brushed it and applied Ospho. Next prime and paint. More to come as the site will only allow 4 pics.
So I cleaned up a filthy evaporator. Inside the shift console and below it was oily and covered with caked dirt. There is a dump valve in the console that appears to vent inside the console. When I drained the air tank the condensate was a bit oily. So the air compressor must be passing oil. Might have to flush the lines and tank with warm water and purge with dry air.
New Cat seals for the leaking swivel on the circle. $$$$ OUCH
Any advice on the pressure test procedure on do I need to go ahead and subscribe to SIS?
Am I mistaken but I thought you said you had manuals for it.?
First thing you have to consider is this............ Because the grader does not have a torque converter you cannot test the transmission pressures without either moving the machine during the test, removing that drive shaft I mentioned above, or setting the machine up on stands and maybe removing the rear wheels. (The highest gear used for this test is Second Speed forward) However you test the pressures you have to get all machine systems up to full normal operating temperature first before setting it up up for testing. You can't test it with cold oil. See procedure below Remove caps (7). Install pressure gauges on taps (D) and (G). Operate the engine at both Low Idle and at High Idle in NEUTRAL and record the pressures for both. Pressure tap (D) is clutch #8 and pressure tap (G) is clutch #5. Remove the gauges and replace caps (7). Remove caps (7) and install pressure gauges on pressure taps (B), (F), and (H). Operate the engine at both Low Idle and at High Idle in FIRST SPEED FORWARD and record the pressures for both. Pressure tap (B) is clutch #1, pressure tap (F) is clutch #6, and pressure tap (H) is clutch #7. Remove the gauges and replace caps (7). Remove caps (7) and install pressure gauges on pressure tap (C) and pressure tap (E). Operate the engine at both Low Idle and at High Idle in SECOND SPEED FORWARD and record the gauge pressures for both. Pressure tap (C) is clutch #2 and pressure tap (E) is clutch #4. Remove the pressure gauges and replace caps (7). Remove cap (7) and install a pressure gauge on tap (A). Operate the engine at both Low Idle and at High Idle in FIRST SPEED REVERSE. Record the gauge pressures for both. Pressure tap (A) is clutch #3. Remove the pressure gauge and replace cap (7). Post back with your results.
I really appreciate your your help Nige. I did purchase the operators manual. I plan to putt the shaft and perform the test tomorrow and will post the results. As per your suggestion I will probably go with SIS.
Nige, What RPM is considered High Idle?
Foot to the floor. In that chart above Minimum Pressure corresponds to Low Idle RPM, Maximum Pressure corresponds to High Idle.
I appreciate it Sir. Pressure findings planned for tomorrow.
Nige what would be the harm in doing the test with the tires on other than safety issues?
Only safety really. If you decide to do it that way the tandems need to be securely supported.
Thank you Sir!
Well the results of the tranny pressure tests are in. I followed Nige's instructions to the letter with one exception. At the second segment of the test I was unable to obtain full RPM and the problem got progressively worse. A little dark smoke was coming from the stack at WOT. So I suspect a fuel delivery problem. I had planned to drain the fuel tank and high pressure hot water flush it and blow the lines out and re-filter. However, if I have to pull the tranny it will be done then. Enough suspense here are the results of the test all in PSI. Low High A-3 345 345 B-1 100 100 C-2 350 350 D-8 385 385 E-4 300 300 F-6 380 390 G-5 370 400 H-7 245 245 Please let the diagnosis begin. Also, the machine was very slow going into 1st and 4th forward.
Do you mean you couldn't get fully to High Idle for each of the pressure tests.? Moving on to the results. Numbers in brackets are the specifications. A-3 345 345 (311/343) B-1 100 100 (302/330) C-2 350 350 (327/355) D-8 385 385 (373/401) E-4 300 300 (269/301) F-6 380 390 (374/400) G-5 370 400 (393/417) H-7 245 245 (366/408) So from that it appears that two clutches, #1 and #7, are way off. Before any more delving into the transmission control valve I think it is time to take a look in the powertrain oil suction screens. The oil does not have to be drained to do this. There are two of them, one is the suction from the differential case, the other is the transmission screen. See the attached procedure from Step 11 onwards. Take photos of whatever material you find in each screen and post it up. While you are at it take a look at the oil. is it clear & bright or dark and cloudy.? Does it smell burned at all.?
That is correct Sir, I was unable to get to High Idle starting at B-1 and by the time I got to H-7 it was at a maximum of 1200 RPM. I will look at the screens this afternoon and post the findings. I believe it is starved for fuel.
Also, the oil was dark, not milky, did not smell badly burnt.
That's another red flag for slipping clutches. It should be straw-coloured and transparent, and should not have smelled burnt (as opposed to badly burnt) at all.
Sounds like a tranny job is coming up (for the machine that is). I planned for that during purchase. We will do it ourselves this winter if it comes to that. Again, screens tonight if I get back to town early enough. Once again your expertise is truly appreciated Sir!
For what it's worth, I went through my records & the clutch that was affected on the 140H with the broken control valve housing was No.7 and one other. I think I was getting some pressure in a clutch that shouldn't have had any during some gears due to leakage between the internal ports because of the cracked web. That machine had burnt oil & a slight amount of clutch material in screens. It has done a few thousand hours since that repair 12 years ago.
There is also an update to the guts of the control valve to increase the pressure on #7 clutch. If this transmission does get pulled for repair at some point I’m going to suggest the update is done at that time. The only parts required are a couple of shims and two springs. Also there is an orifice in a shaft that feeds oil pressure into the back side of the #7 clutch piston that needs to be carefully checkd because it can get blocked with debris from a failed clutch.
Pulled both screens and they were clean. I suspect someone already cleaned them. The magnets had a minute amount of powder size metallic debris that I wiped on a towel (see attachment). The only thing remarkable was the suction hose needing replacement. I got some fluid on my hands and it definitely smells burnt. Unless someone has a rabbit in their hat or can perform miracles I'm afraid out patient is going to need surgery.
Well at least now you know for sure.
Well I have some work to do with the machine so I need to solve the fuel issue, check the fluids and grease it. We will plan do the tranny this winter and might consider going through the engine while we are there clutch as well. Need to see if there is a seal kit available for the tranny. It will save a fair amount of money just changing the friction discs and not the plates or it that not a good idea it they are not damaged?
Does anyone know if there is a quality aftermarket supplier of plates and friction discs? Once again I really appreciate all the help!
I would suggest to price up nothing more than a gasket kit before the transmission is removed and then look at replacement based on the condition of each individual part you remove. Actually I can't see a gasket kit from Cat but there is a bearing kit P/N 352-7436. How many hours does the transmission have right now.? For a machine with higher hours you might consider doing a zero-hours rebuild on it while you have it out of the machine. That would also include the control valve. Considering the amount of work required to remove the transmission it could be a good plan.
Any clutch that has been slipping the chances are that the separator plates will be at best badly blued and at worst blued & warped. The chances of being able to reuse them under those circumstances are somewhere between slim & none IMHO.
I'd be at least pulling & checking the pressure control valve first before trying to do any work with it. An Improved Body Is Now Used for the Selector and Pressure Control Valve on Certain H and K Series Motor Graders {3083} (SEPD1551)
I'm not on SIS yet, Therefore I don't know what packs and shafts are the culprit. The machine has a problem in 1st and 4th forward for sure. For the little work I currently have I can avoid those speeds, but I don't want to chance any additional damage. I'm game on "tampering" with the valves. The bottom outside valve appears to be replaced. Notice the attachment. I don't know what pack that actuates. Additionally, the machine has 7400 Hrs with routine maintenance. The engine appeared to run good with no knocking, no blue smoke starts immediately but during the trek home in hindsight was somewhat weak on power in higher gears which I believe is related to the suspected fuel problems outlined during the pressure test procedure. Since it looks like the tranny needs pulling we will service the parking brake and inspect the clutch. We will be at the engine, should we consider going through it before a failure? I'm certainly not wealthy but I will say anytime I cave tried to cut a corner it has severely bit me in the azz. Therefore I try not to do it. Please give me your thoughts on this gentlemen. By the way a factory reman long block is 15K. The tranny will probably run that or more in parts. I know this is a long post but I'm trying to look at any and all reasonable options.
This is a countershaft transmission that requires three clutches to be engaged to select any particular transmission speed. So something strange is going on. See the table below that shows what clutches are engaged for any particular transmission speed. A common clutch for 1st speed & 4th speed forward is Clutch #7 (which tested low on pressure). However that same clutch is also used for 2nd & 3rd speeds Forward as well as 1st & 4th, plus 1st through 3rd speeds in Reverse. So the question is if #7 Clutch is bad why are 2nd & 3rd speed engagement not also playing up.? Are the aforementioned Reverse speeds also giving problems.? Define "tampering" please.
Forgot to mention that under normal circumstances the transmission should not require an overhaul with only 7400 hours on the clock, unless possibly it has been abused. Another thought regarding the clutches. #1 and #7 are only engaged simultaneously in 1st and 4th speed forward, and in no other speed. I wonder if it is a combination of both clutches not being up to scratch that is causing the issues in those two particular speeds.?
Tampering- trying to make an adjustment. Nige, which packs correspond to what appears to be a new valve in the last pic posted?
Let my get the engine running properly and I will test all speeds. I might re-test the pressures. I will sample the fuel and change the filters first unless you have another idea.
I would be swapping or cleaning the solenoid valves that are low on pressure before pulling the trans for rebuild. The majority of the time it’s just a solenoid or valve problem. There are also orifices in that valve body that plug causing low pressure or slow engagement.
Don't try it would be my advice. The adjustment of clutch pressures is not done using full pressure as per the specs you tested against earlier but what's called "initial pressures". This requires a piece of test equipment (139-7050 Plate) that even your dealer probably does not have, although you could ask. That new adjuster is on Clutch #7, so obviously someone has been attempting to short-circuit the need to pull the transmission out. I agree. I would swap the complete solenoid valves (coil + guts) between B & F (Red) and between D & H (Blue) and see what that does to pressures. If there has been debris from burned clutch material circulating then some if it could easily have ended up in the control valve passages. However that does mean that you will need to fix the apparent fuel delivery problem first so that you can get the engine to High Idle RPM on a consistent basis.
Not much to report today Gentlemen. I picked up a fuel filter and water separator but it is raining which is almost always good in Texas. I plan to install them tomorrow weather permitting. Nige the test plate is available from Waco and about $130 or so. Are we possibly looking at a valve body change here?
For a start I think it might be useful once you get the fuel issues resolved is to warm up the machine and then repeat the pressure tests at High Idle (especially on clutches #1 & #7) just to see if there are any changes when you can get to full engine RPM. It is certainly a possibility, although a small one IMO. Do you fancy pulling the control valve body now or later.? It will have to be done at some point during the transmission repairs/overhaul. See attached SEPD1551 mentioned earlier by @DieselFit . The problem with cracking in the valve body could possibly explain the low pressure in #7 clutch but would not explain the low pressure in #1 clutch. That's why it's only a possibility in my mind. Clutch #1 (used in speeds 1F, 4F, 5F, 7F, & 8F) and Clutch #7 (used in speeds 1F thru 4F) get a fair amount of hammer in normal machine operation. One or both of them is always engaged. As per the document I attached to Post #47 on the previous page #7 Clutch is also at risk in speeds 5F thru 8F when it is disengaged if there are any problems with the balance piston assembly and if centrifugal force causes a partial engagement of #7 Clutch when #8 Clutch is also engaged. Go back to the ET report and all the operator-induced issues (see below) that were present when the machine was scanned. Does that not also suggest that transmission abuse could also have been a factor.? It is unfortunate that there is no specific transmission abuse parameter available. ......multiple events of 3 codes as follows. 1. E049 Coasting in neutral. 2. E627 Parking brake applied with machine in motion. 3. E762 Machine driven with cold transmission.
I'm game for pulling the valve body secondary to resolving the fuel issue and re-testing the pressures. Is there any specific procedure to that process? Like you stated it is going to come off sooner than later.
Get the fuel issue resolved first and re-test pressures on #1 & #7 would be my first suggestion. If you're up for pulling the control valve off then you'll need that plate I mentioned earlier for pressure testing. It will also pay you to get hold of a few 5J-1036 shims (0.030") for setting pressures in the different control valve stations when the time comes. See attached SEPD0947. I would suggest you gt the parts to do the #7 clutch upgrade (2 springs, spacer, & shim) while you are at it. Also attached the R&I for the control valve.
I appreciate all the help! I'm working on the parts order now including shim, spacer, springs and test plate. Trying to figure out the gasketing. It appears to be a plate No. 8E-9476. I assume it's a once and done item.
That plate should be reusable. You just have to replace all the O-Rings for the various passages. See if this is any help.
All control body seals on order with the plate, shims, spacer and springs. I will work on the fuel issue and hopefully re-test this weekend. The machine was left on heavy timber cribbing.
Well the differential diagnosis on the fuel problem is coming together. I removed the bottom fuel filter and poured it out into a white bucket. There was no red dye in it and it was dark yellow and did not smell much like Diesel. Proceeded to drain the fuel water separator which had very little water in it. Then the evidence of fuel contamination revealed itself. I pumped about 1 gallon of "fuel" into a container and lo and behold the darkest fuel I have ever seen with a mild green tint to it. I let some settle in a quart container and poured the liquid off revealing very fine sediment which I suspect is algae and 20 years of who knows what. So a fuel system flush and tank wash with hot water is in order or I will never stop changing filters. Not sure if the fuel tank has a nice big hole in the bottom like my retired Allis-Chalmers did. We will see. That sure made cleaning much easier.
The Cat 120H has the tandems on cribbing. It was my understanding when there is no air pressure in the system the parking brake is in the actuated mode. Is that correct?
You are correct, but why are you asking.? Do you suspect it is not working.? Cast your mind back to the multiple Events of “E627 Parking brake applied with machine in motion.” That could be the reason. The park brake doesn’t like that. In fact I have seen many instances in the past of debris from a park brake failure taking a transmission out.
My mistake as I might have been premature in my concerns. As the machine is on cribbing I was standing on one of the tires to have a better view is the inside of the fuel filler opening. I noticed the tires being able to turn. The other side turns the opposite direction as it should without the diff lock not engaged. It should do that just like any non locked differential I believe. I'm not saying there isn't a brake issue also, with my kind of luck though. I'm serious when I say this "if it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all", Murphy seems to follow me everywhere. Time permitting I'm planning to biocide the fuel, drain it, hot pressure wash the tank and dry it with a blow drier or vacuum cleaner blowing. Blow drier has worked well in this situation leaving it running for 4-6 hours. Forgot it once and it ran all night. The next morning the fuel tank was quite warn ensuring starting back with a squeaky clean and dry fuel system.
Forgot to mention that you will need a pressure gauge with a full scale reading in the region of 60-80psi to set initial transmission pressures.
Yes Sir, I'll pick one up Monday. The plate and seals will not be here until Monday. Unfortunately it's mostly ranch work today. No playing with the big Tonka Toys. Thank you again and have a great weekend all.
TBH I would suggest that while you have the transmission apart you rebuild the park brake anyway, simply because it’s good practice.
If I park our 143H in a turn with the diff lock engaged and shut it off, I can feel it disengage when the power is cut so I would expect the wheels to do what you describe.
Absolutely, parking brake/clutch all hoses in the engine compartment. Considering a engine oil analysis but I have no baseline. With the engine compartment opened up and the tranny probably out would an in frame be advisable?
What do ya'll think about the fuel?
With 7400 hours.? It should be just nicely run in. that engine ought to go around 12k or more before needing a full overhaul IMHO. Nasty. What to do about it.? Pretty much what you've already said, maybe plus a biocide when you get everything reinstalled and put the frst tank full of fuel in it.
That Diesel will not go to waste. It mixed with 10 percent gasoline is an excellent accelerant to burn brush piles. We also use the Diesel 4 gallons to 1 gallon of Remedy to spray brush, especially Huisache.
Update on the six legged Cat. Finally got the fuel tank flushed and wow it was filthy. It was fouled with algae, dirt, rust and who knows what. Filled the tank with very hot water and detergent, drained it and pressure washed it as good as possible as there are baffles in it. Filled it again with hot water and drained it again while flushing. Dried the tank with a shop vac blowing for 2 hours and put 20 gallons of fuel treated with biocide. Flushed the fuel system with the primer pump, 3 new filters and bingo she came to life and after warmed up took her to full throttle and the old gal ran great. Next, repeat the tranny pressure test and post the results. Hail Mary time. I'm not a lucky guy, so it's probably transmission time.
Well the new pressure test is complete with very little change. I suspect some inaccuracies in the gauges as they are not certified and calibrated. Just off the shelf glycerin filled at the hose shop. Here are the findings: idle full A 310 320 B 105 100 C 340 340 D 360 410 E 300 300 F 390 395 G 380 380 H 240 240 All in PSI. Nige I have the test plate, shims, spacer and springs. Machine is slow to go into forward 1,4 and 7. All reverse speeds appear to engage immediately. Let's be safe out there!
I'd be interested to see if you get any pressure in 7 (H) when 1 (A) is engaged & vice versa. Test a gear that is only using one of those two clutches.
Clutch 1 should be port B correct? I will do that test tomorrow weather pending.
Now that you have fixed the fuel delivery problem I suggest that you go back to Post #61 on Page 4 and swap the complete solenoid valves over as described and illustrated, then re-test pressures on those four clutches.
Will do Sir, I'm on it.
Well work on the six legged Cat has been slow as I have been sidelined due to a minor surgery. A large cyst developed rapidly on my back which was lanced, drained and left open to continue draining under a dressing. I was given strict instructions by one of my colleagues who did the procedure to stay inside and under no circumstances allow any sweat to contaminate the wound. Well it's 8:25PM 85 degrees with 80 percent humidity. So, I'm inside but planning my next move on the machine which will be swapping the solenoid packs as advised. So here is the next question. The 120H has no air dryer. Moisture is always a problem here for anything that requires compressed air. What would be a good choice in a aftermarket dryer for the machine? Thanks..
OK Ladies and Gentlemen, the Legdoc is back in action. The solenoids and valves were swapped as Nige's post 61 and the pressures were again tested with no real change. All the solenoids and valves were replaced by the dealer for TxDot. I did not see any foreign debris in the valves or the bores. Here are the test values in PSI. A-3 310 310 B-1 110 110 C-2 340 340 D-8 375 380 E-4 295 295 F-6 370 380 G-5 380 400 H-7 230 230 Machine is still going slow in 1st. 4th and 7th forward. I'm looking for one last Hail Mary pass. Pull the valve body?
That would be my next thing. It has to be done if you overhaul the transmission anyway, but it has similar symptoms to the one I repaired that had the cracked valve body. They are aluminium (or aluminum where you are) & the castings are quite thin/fragile.
Weather permitting I might tackle that this weekend. Is the possible suspect just the outside cover or deeper into the valve body?
From memory I think it was in the first body that bolts to the transmission case.
Eliminating the possibility of a defect on the control valve body is not a bad first step. However if you inspect the valve body and find nothing in the way of cracks then I suggest that you do not reinstall it but instead snatch the transmission straight away. Reason being that if there is contamination circulating in the transmission oil then it could get trapped in a rebuilt valve and spoil all the good work you had done cleaning/rebuilding it.
Nige can you help me with the valve body removal procedure instructions please?
Also, since we are most likely looking at pulling the tranny what would be the harm in doing some light gravel road work at my ranch in 2nd and 3rd forward? That would not involve clutch 1.
Do it before you touch the control valve would be my suggestion. Check your messages.
Working on agricultural machinery for a number of years, this was standard practice. Stuff would come in held together by bailing twine and optimism.
hay Nige hi from Newman they boneheads haven't got any better,
Ok the six legged Cat is back in action doing my road maintenance avoiding the troubled speeds. Was a bit warm in there as the A/C is not cooling. I'll check the charge tomorrow. I could use a little help as the coolant temperature gauge is not working. In the old days we would ground the sending unit lead and that would peg the gauge. I'm not sure where the sending unit is on the 120H. I could use a little guidance.
#11 on the attachment. If you disconnect the wire from the sender and touch it to ground with the key ON, the temperature gauge should max out if the sender is the problem.
Thank you Sir, I'm on it.