On an IT24F what is the process to release the coupler Pins? There is a push button on top the middle lever, is that the release?
Should be a toggle you hold then use the aux lever to pin on or off
ok thank you for the clarification.
There is a push button switch on top of the middle lever When I play around with holding that button down and pushing the middle lever . And/or the third lever, the engine starts to bog down.
Their is lock valves on the coupler they are manual you have to turn them first
Thank you for the clarification Do you have a picture of these lock valves?
Isn’t real good but numbers 27&28
Thank you for the diagram I see the box is it the hex bolt on the top?
I'm thinking there is a handle on the back I actually called wrong it is a diverter valve should be quick couplers on top of it I know they used quick couplers for forks with a top clamp It's best to keep it going to the quick couplers and not the cylinder to release the attachment so you don't accidently drop your attachment
Oh thats interesting I have never noticed a handle. I can take some pictures in a little bit
Here’s the coupler
clean back of left one off you will find a roll pin and a square head where handle goes. I don't know what's on the machine but it doesn't look like it's been off for years might be pretty hard getting things to move
You may find the attached of some use. A complete O&M Manual for the IT24F is available for download from the Cat Publications web site for $52. Might prove useful if you also do your own maintenance.
By the looks of that coupler, it’s not going to move easy. Think I’d mix up some acetone and tranny fluid and give everything a bath after a good hot pressure wash.
so I did purchase the manual and it looks like I am missing this handle to the right of the cab seat I am also missing the lever for the diverter valve on the coupler
That is the handle that locks the lift/tilt/3rd function levers in the neutral position. It’s a safety feature to prevent inadvertent movement of the levers.
Thanks for the clarification. How about the fact that diverter valve handle in tge 2nd picture?
A crescent wrench will probably do what you need
If you want the genuine article search for 128-0187 Handle Kit. I see aftermarket replacements out there also.
What should the mix ratio be?
Thank you
I got things cleaned up... does this look right?
yes I'm wondering what it was working in seems to been very corrosive
It worked at a concrete plant prior to my ownership
The head is all mangled, when I put a wrench on it and turn it slips off What would be the best course of action to be able to release the coupler pins?
might try a square drive socket
50/50 mix but with that kind of corrosion, pneumatic needle gun in some areas, wire cup brushes in die grinders, anything you can. That looks more like a plug but I would clean the crap out of it, I would consider trying some Muriatic acid in a small area and see if it will do anything. Careful with the acid and don’t store it with the cap loose. Maybe even some Rustoff or Lime Away. That valve could use some light needle gun work and or wire wheel work. That and gently hammer on the head, peening it to loosen everything up. Then get progressive with the force of the hammer as needed.
Thank you for the suggestions. I will get those implemented. One thing if that is indeed a plug, how do I release the coupler pins? When I engage the 3rd hydraulic lever it just bogs down the engine and I dont see any other buttons to release it
It may very well be, your cylinders are all corroded along with everything else. This will probably be a pretty big job by the time you’re done. What implements are on it and what others do you have that have importance to you?
That is because you are deadheading that circuit because the diverter valve is directing oil to the plugged off port anything you try to do is probably get to be a big problem I'm not sure if the cylinder will have enough power to move the lock pins I did see in the parts book some didn't have diverter valves just a bulkhead elbow but the looks of your hoses and fittings you are going to have fun and need new hoses and fittings also I seem to remember a hole in coupler that you can see lock pins thru a lot of oil on the pins might help when you get oil to cylinder good luck
I will definitely be getting everything as cleaned up as possible and get grease to those pins once I have access to them. A few things popped up in my mind Are there manual retaining clips somewhere that need to be removed? Do the hydraulic hoses need to be moved to the ports circled in red ?
It may work if you put lines there if the valves are in that position also try and roll bucket all the way to dump and set it on ground and see if you can see the pins (might have to dig some concrete) and there are no pins
So I did a little test yesterday where I can see the hydraulic lines while I engage the 3rd function lever. I put the bucket in the dump position and watched everything When I engage the 3rd lever the big hose on the driver's entry side moves that goes into the bulkhead. The small hoses that go into the lower area of the coupler did not move. It seems like the pin tried to move maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch
As my first girlfriend would say, start giving it some LUBE! Lol
I found the problem. The hose on the passenger side was capped off at the top of the loader arms I got a new hose installed and greased all the fittings Now I can hear the pin moving back-and-forth. When I move the third function lever However the pin will not release
lift the bucket off the ground a little and work the coupler
Thank you I did try that for about an hour or so
Did you try scraping the end of pins maybe scrape lube then try giving them a little help with a hammer and a bid punch while someone works the cylinder
Thanks for the tip Unfortunately I am always by myself lol Maybe I can get someone to come with me this week to assist