I need to replace the seals in the hydraulic ram that works the boom. It's located inside the boom and the only way to reach the seals is to remove the ram from the boom. The roll pin at the top that connects the hydraulic rod to the boom is easy to knock out but I can't move the lower roll pin that holds the cylinder in place. I beat on it with a sledgehammer, I've heated it up with oxy/acetiline and beat on it some more but it still won't move. It's a 50mm pin. I took an 1 1/2" steel dowel, mounted it in an 1 1/2" hole drilled in a 2x4 to support it and afixed it to the backhoe so that it centered on the 50mm roll pin and beat on it until the end of the dowel started to mushroom. The dowel is mild steel but the pin is not, probably tool steel. Any suggestions for a "Plan B or C"? I'm beginning to believe that the pin is pressed in. If I can't replace the seals I'll have to chain up the hoe part and I'll be stuck with an overpriced front end loader.
If worse goes to worse google oxygen Lance or maybe air Lance I had a stuck kingpin and was preparing to have it burned out but finally got it out using a 30 ton bottle jack
I presume you know/realize you'll need to lay the hoe down a hill or plant it into a hole in the ground to pull it out. Fortunately for me we have a dry pond I was able to lay mine in. Then with ratchet straps, was able to pull it out and get into truck. I did mine while healing from rotator cuff surgery so only had use of 50% of that arm
It is possible that the pin has a step worn into it and that step is hung up on the bushing.
I'm not trying to take the boom off, just pull the hydraulic cylinder out of it to replace the seals. It can't be heavier than an engine and I have an engine hoist to do that. I'm in SW WA. My backhoe is outside and it's starting into the rainy season so things are getting ugly all the way around. I may end up having to burn and grind the pin out. That'll be the *****.
I don't think so. I've got the hoe stretched out on the ground so there's no pressure on the pins. I can move the end of the ram back and forth a bit on the lower stuck pin so the only thing holding the pin is the casting on the hoe itself. I've tried driving the pin out from both sides. From one side you can see just the slightest space around the pin and the casting but there is no space around the pin on the other side. And as stated above, I can tap out the top pin easily. The through bolt that holds the top pin came out easily. I had to drift out the lower through bolt as it was somewhat misaligned with the stuck pin. I think I should be able to rotate the pin to line up the through bolt on the bottom pin as well.
The other problem is that JCB is not a common rig around here in the Northwest so If I can't figure it out this is about the only way I have to get any help working on this beast. There's a couple places about 60mi north and south of me that claim to be JCB service places but I've been underwhelmed with their service ability. One fellow came out and charged me $175 for a service call then told me he didn't have a CD for my backhoe for his laptop. He gave me a fuel filter for compensation. Thanks a lot. I'm not blaming JCB. It's been a good machine. The previous owner or his mechanic buggered it up. And here I am.
You can find manuals online. Ebay for example. But I've had stuck pins on a jcb before too. I think you may have to torch the pin out.
A stuck cylinder pin isn't specific to JCB. It is really quite normal for any machine with a few years on it. Welding up a fixture to put 20 tons or so of force on it while hitting it with a 10 lb hammer, heating the bosses on the boom, drilling or lancing all the way through the pin, and cutting the pin on each side of the cylinder eye are some of the things that sometimes work. There is no quick, easy answer.
But keep in mind , if yours is similar to mine, your cylinder is "boxed" in with steel on all four sides... Measure your opening and length of cylinder....in my case, there is no way the cylinder is coming out unless it's pointed near 45 degree angle up which means the hoe had to be pointed down. I finally had to attach a come along to loader bucket and drape it across roof to pull it out I had a dry pond I could lay the boom down to give me the required angle
What about taking the stick off, leaving the barrel of the boom cylinder on and just pulling the rod out to have it resealed?
On mine (1550-B) I don't think that would work either, besides, the cylinder probably weighs less and would be easier to handle I'd post a picture but I'm not at home
For what its worth, this is from the service manual.
If you don't have the service manual I can post more of it.
To clarify, this is a 2"x 9" solid tool steel pivot pin and not a roll pin. I thought I'd seen it called either but they're different critters. My mistake. The area around the pin is 2" thick on either side of the cast iron/cast steel (?) box with the ram riding in between.
I've never seen a roll pin hold a hydraulic cylinder. They're usually solid.
Try lancing the pin out?
Slick, but I don't have the tools, just the oxy/ acetylene and a small welder. I'm also about 3 weeks from turning 78 and I just don't have the strength to swing a much bigger sledge hammer anymore like those young fellers. And I'm a one man show. I do the best I can.
Could you post a couple of photos of the pin and the way the cylinder is mounted to the machine ?
It's out! Here's what I did. I glued a length of 1/4" rubber tubing in a 'U' shape around the pin on one side with rubber cement leaving about 1/4" clearance around the pin. I took a piece of ECBM rubber and a piece of plywood and clamped it over the glued tubing to hold and seal it. Then I sprayed penetrating oil in at the top. Topped off the penetrating oil every day for 3 days and let it creep. Put a small can under neath to catch any penetrating oil that might leak. Not much did. I think the only leakage was from overflow. Anyway, it's out and on the ground. I ordered a gland wrench off Ebay tonight and need to find/order the seals. WOOP!!!
That's a good idea.
Haven't come up with a replacement pin yet. Do you think an annealed 4140 pin would work? I think I can get a heat treated 4140 pin but it wouldn't be polished, which might take a toll on the bushing.