Hello everyone, Last summer I purchased a 1700B JCB. Trying to get things cked out but having trouble with things. Never been around a JCB before, always have owned Fords etc with manual trans. This is an open ROPS cab, not enclosed cab. Has a turboed Perkins engine, 4 speed manual tran plus a shuttle tran. This is a 2 WD machine. Only thing on machine besides JCB embleme is "TURBO" painted on top of ROPS. Then tag at rt front (standing at rear of machine) with numbers stamped etc, but can't read what each # is supposed to be equal to. So far no one here in C. Oregon has any info on JCB's 1. Does not go forward or rev. Hoping it's electrical etc. Previous owner said it was working great but suddenly quit moving either direction. Right now I want to change fluids & filters etc, then start checking out electrical stuff. 2. Trying to find out kind (model) machine I have for sure. PO said it is a 1988 1700B. Everything I see on internet has 2CX, 3CX, 4CX, 200 series, etc, etc, all kind of different model #'s etc. (What do I have?) The metal tag on rt front of machine has #'s stamped in top left: 17BT2048/335539/7 then over toward top rt of tag is 445/075/5/03596 (found this same 445# on tag on Tran) Then toward bottom left of tag is LJ218857S (I found stamped into engine block LJ50223U218857S) Then towards bottom rt of tag is 07881 On rear axle I found tag with #'s stamped: 15.587 then SN# 451/227/ /088 This machine is a pretty big machine, engine sounds really great, but hydraulics seem to be sluggish & need some work on. Overall the machine seems to be very tight from end to end. Don't know how many hrs is on the machine, the dash is all tore apart. Rt now I need to find out for sure what machine I have, what kind of shuttle it has, what kind of fluids, etc, etc. Looking round on this site & the net sounds like maybe ATF Type F or equivalent for the shuttle? Anyway, got lots of questions & TIA for any & all answers!!
Welcome to HEF, ttman4 ! A google search found this ---> https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=crawlers&th=42221
Thanks Tinkerer, I looked at that link as well as some other net searches. Only time I get to net look is at nite, & I'm sooo tired. You or anybody else know how to decipher some of those numbers I posted earlier? I assume the number 17BT2048/335539/7 is the SN# or something? I'm guessing the 17BT may be 1700B turbo'ed? Don't know how to decipher the rest of those numbers in that line. The # on that same tag 445/075/5/03596 matches the # on the tag on the transmission. The # LJ218857S on same tag seems to match LJ50223U218857S that's on the engine block. I was told by the seller it is a 1988 model machine. I was hoping that some of the #'s would tell what yr for sure? While back I ordered a CD Service Manual, & supposedly it is for various machines, ie: 200 Series ( 3CX 1400B 1550B 1700B)....so would my machine be a 200 Series machine? Lots of net searching & I'm still confused. I can't figure out different models or years of models. TIA
Sorry tman, I cannot give you much help. I live in John Deere, Case and New Holland country so to speak. Anything I know about JCB,s would fit on a pin head. There is a member here known as jcb jeff. He is very knowledgeable about JCB's. Hopefully he will read your inquiry and help you. You could try sending him a PM to get his attention.
All the B series JCB’s have exactly the same hydraulic systems. There are very few variances between the models......that’s why your cd covers those models.
Also, if I am remembering right, the B series used a dual main relief for the backhoe and loader system. It is in the loader valve.......the outer part of the relief set the main pressure for the backhoe, the inner for the loader. (Could be vice versa.....too many years ago!) You are correct.....the 17BT is the 1700B......the 6 digit mid number is the serial number of the machine (335539)
As for the transmission, you have the forward/reverse lever, which energizes the forward and reverse solenoids on the transmission. But in between, there is fuses, relay, and clutch pedal cutout switch, and park brake cutout switch. Check the switches and relays and fuses for corrosion. Sometimes wriggling the fuses gets things going. Sometimes the clutch pedal switch or park brake switch get stuck and don't release.
TTman.... I've got a JCB 1550-B so this might not help. I had a wire corrode and break inside the harness that went back to power/charge the battery. So the entire time I use the machine (until I got this fixed this past fall) I'm using battery power. I have to recharge the battery every now & then and usually forget so have to jump start the machine. Which leads me to.... I was having FITS one day to get it to change directions..... when it dawned on me, it's an electro-mechanical process.... I wonder if the electro part is weak (this was prior to fixing that broken wire) Charged the battery and it worked absolutely fine. So the point is.... is your electrical system in good condition, providing power to the changer (I have no idea what the part might be called) Second, I've had to take the forward/reverse stalk off the left side of steering wheel and found a cracked connection. Soldered it up and things have been great since. Also....I presume you know.... if you have the key turned off, the machine will run, you can dig like a monster but your transmission will be dead until you rotate the key to 'on' Here's a free laugh (at me) for you... Was preparing a pretty large burn pile once....machine just stopped dead in its tracks. Ran fine but no more forward/reverse. Checked key, was on. Clicked the reverser several times and nothing. Ran to house to get screwdriver & hex to remove the lever. Took off, everything looked fine. (back story before my embarassment).....because of the weak battery, when it cranks over but doesn't start, it will get stuck forcing the starter and the wires can over-heat SO, I have my negative terminal snug but not "tight" so I can wiggle it off in a panic if I need to kill my starter. Back to wood pile.... checked key, fine. Ran to house to get tools to take stalk apart....it looked to be fine. Befuddled.... open the hood and there was the negative cable that had wiggled loose and off the battery, thereby killing my drive unit. Put cable back on and everything was fine. oops. Now I check cable first.
I had the same thing happen to me with for/rev shuttle before i fixed my alternator. Was plowing snow at night with lights on and noticed they slowly got dimmer..disnt think much of it till all of the sudden my shuttle stopped working..i panic at first then turned off lights and it worked. Lol..thats how i found out my alt wasnt charging..
Tinkerer I haven't been able to figure out how to PM jcb jeff, but would like to. Thanks for everyone's replies. Gives me info as well as things to think about & check. Been extremely busy & the holidays & slowly trying to get a handle on this JCB. Think I'll really like it when I get everything worked out!! Few days ago I filled radiator with antifreeze/distilled water. Later I realized that the tran/shuttle was dripping antifreeze (drop about every 10 sec). Put pan under & caught about 2 gal till it quit. Then I drained shuttle & pulled filter screen & got about 1 qt of pinkish sticky, milky, very nasty fluid out & some separated water. Is there a way to drain the torque convertor, or do I fill, run, drain/flush several times??? Also I'm not sure what fluid to go back with, ATF or something else? Looking round on the net I realize this machine apparently has a shuttle oil cooler. This must be how the antifreeze water is getting into the shuttle. I keep looking for info on the net but apparently JCB is very tight lipped about giving info.. for instance I found one site (777parts.net) that has lots of info, but all diagrams are blurry & part numbers are only partial #'s. Anyway, thanks for the replies! I'm going to conquer this thing yet!!
I've had great luck simply calling my dealer. My "old" dealer, the people who originally sold the machine to TVA (Tennessee Valley Authority) back in 1987/88 no longer carry the JCB brand but still have some odd parts on hand AND access to get them. They have been helpful. I've also gotten to know the nearest bona-fide dealer which is 90 miles away in Chattanooga. They have so far, been friendly and willing to help. I'm buying the parts from them but they have also for example, sent me cylinder diagrams for when I (for the first time ever) took a cylinder apart to rebuild it.
Yes I have had some good luck calling the dealer in Portland, Or, but the info is somewhat limited.
The last time he was here was Dec.17, 2019 Do a forum search for him and find one of his posts. Click your curser on his name and a panel will come up that enables you to start a conversation with him. When you send it he will get an email from HEF administrators that he has a conversation started. Looks like this ---->.
Thanks Tinkerer, with your help I managed to get a short PM sent to jcb jeff. I need to get back to my machine, ck some things, then start asking more questions here & PM to jeff. Thanks again. James
Trying to upload some pics of my shuttle oilcooler. It's about 2" dia x 16" long, plumbed from bottom of radiator, down, winds around and back up to thermostat area. Hose to and from the shuttle tran. Also the screen that goes into the bottom of the shuttle. Very nasty! Got about a qt of watery, nasty fluid from the shuttle. The spin-on filter on side of shuttle is also very nasty. I also included a pic of the shuttle where the screen goes to hopefully help narrow down what kind of shuttle I have. Like I say I had antifreeze water dripping from the shuttle about a drop ea 10 seconds, I assume the shuttle oil cooler is leaking somehow.
In your 3 rd picture is the trans cooler in question as we spoke about. Im not sure what is on the strainer but dont look good is it like a fiber material if so this will be clutch packs id guess as antifreeze from a failed cooler will eat them quite quick. When you fit a new cooler make sure you get the cooler pipes on the correct way round . The hot oil from the transmission needs to go against the flow of coolant .
Great advice from a true professional ! Not many would forewarn about oil flow direction in a cooler that must be easy to hook up backwards.
Thanks you guys. Yes Jeff 3rd pic shows the cooler from side view, with a hyd hose in foreground headed up front. The 1st pic is a view of the oil cooler from underneath. Rt top of pic, below/by the engine oil filter, is hose coming from bottom of radiator, then attaches to cooler. I assume the radiator flow would be: Inlet at top of radiator, Outlet at bottom of radiator...?? Thanks for the tip about direction flow. Weather supposed start getting nasty again but I plan to maybe pull cooler today (maybe). Try to figure out the design of the cooler, what could have made it start leaking into the shuttle. The oil cooler on my '90 Ford truck 7.3 has an oilcooler that has O-Rings on each end to seal, then the header slips onto each end. I need to see how this JCB one is designed & seals. Also the cooler has a tinfoil sticker on it, but I can't read any #'s or anything. Also I been looking for a drain plug in the TQ but can't find one. Really hoping I could drain it to save having to flush so much. I also plan to ck out inside of shuttle spin-on filter to see what's inside. Thanks again guys. I still say I think I'll really like this TLB when I get it running. It's a very tight machine!!!
Easy way to flush them once you done cooler would be to have a good oil pump bucket or drum pump connected to a hose that will go into the dipstick tube of the trans. Then fill the trans with fresh oil ,find the torque converter out let pipe from the trans to the cooler which i think is near the engine bell housing end and put into a large drain bucket. Then with an assistant start engine on tick over whilst pumping in fresh oil and watching dirty oil coming out. Stop when clean oil comes out you can also lift machine on legs and just cycle the forward and reverse to clean out all oil ways. This is the best way to flush as the oil going in is clean and old oil is being removed and not allowed to remix with fresh. You will have to recheck and levels after and fit new filter .
Very clever flush procedure you have Jeff !!
Well yesterday my son & I pulled the shuttle cooler off & it's no good, really bad shape. Looks to me like it's been frozen at some point and the small tubes inside towards one end are all bent & messed up, like they have blown up. I've found a few on EBay but they don't look like mine. Mine is about 16" long x about 2 1/2" dia. It has an oil inlet toward one end and an oil outlet toward other end. Has place for temp sensor. Has a threaded "stub" on one side that attaches it to a bracket on the tractor frame. There is a tinfoil sticker on the cooler with Birmingham, England on it, some other unreadable stuff, then some #'s that are totally unreadable. Was hoping I could find/read a part #. Also can anyone tell me what this welded on metal post is in the pic with the blue arrow pointing at?
Also can anyone tell me what this welded on metal post is in the pic with the blue arrow pointing at? Boom lock. It looks like the piece on the boom is missing. It should be hinged in the hole near the cylinder on the far right of the picture.
The pin in question stuck up is for the travel lock on the rear arm ,you should have a A frame with a small hyd ram on there but looks as if its missing it attaches to the 2 holes on the boom . If you lift the rear boom all the way up in the straight position you will see what i mean.
Not sure but this might be the part number your looking for. There is another type of cooler fitted over here in the uk which is a air cooler that sits in front of the main radiator. So you could possibly find a cooler and mount one in the front just an idea.
Thanks guys. This now makes sense for a travel boom lock. Also there is a very small hyd line (can barely see it in my pic, small white one) that is ran thru the swingpost area, up the boom to a small block/fitting. Not currently hooked up to anything. I suspect this would go to "a small hyd ram" you mention Jeff. Both outriggers (that's what we call them over here) have a hook that locks them in the up position. Can see the left one in my pic. I'm learning more & more about my JCB! Does anyone know a part # for a shuttle oilcooler that will fit/work for my machine? I've got to get a new one Edit: Missed your post Jeff, will look at your post. Thanks
This was another option so a water /oil cooler and an additional air to oil cooler /fan option i guess for hot climates.
Thanks Jeff. Yesterday I called the JCB Dealer in Portland, Oregon & yes apparently the shuttle oilcooler that fits my machine SN# 335539 is the # you gave me, # 30/203200. It is obsolete over here now, but price is US $2,680.24 if one can be found. The dealer also emailed me a schematic like you gave me, & it had many other part #'s. He & I talked & discussed option of mounting another oil cooler up front of the radiator to air cool the shuttle oil. Just need to figure out what size it would need. Currently there is another cooler mounted in front of the radiator that apparently is power steering oilcooler. I also Googled the oil cooler # & found one in Florida that is priced US $2,535.72+shipping. For now I'm going to study & think on my options, get the system flushed, figure out what shape the shuttle is in, then go from there. Thanks, James
Can you just install a universal transmission cooler in front of radiator? That would be cheap.
James Please picture this is an aftermarket cooler that fits the same jcb transmissions ect. The only difference with this type you would need to make a support to hold the tube part up ,these are normally sat in a half moon cradle with hose clips around body to cradle to secure if that makes sense. Yours has a bolt welded to the side for mounting the operation of oil to cooler heat transfer is identical in operation. The coolant hose id may vary as im not sure of the diameters but that would be an easy modification to make. And they ship your side of the pond.