Hi All, An amateur mechanic here. I picked up this machine at an auction and am just getting into 'er, resolving things one by one. 1998 JCB 217, USA model with "AK" series Perkins 1004-4t (turbo), rated 92hp, (though Perkins says 111hp) I'm not sure which injector pump (yet). The machine runs okay under no load, and even with some load, but when I really load it up, say by going up a steep hill or trying to push into a pile of dirt, it won't develop the power, which is to say the engine RPM's aren't coming up with the throttle. Under it load she does throttle up as expected, though the tach isn't working right (yet). As best as I can tell by diving into manuals, is that there is no computer or anything regulating the RPM's. All there is, is the governor, the fuel, and the air. I put in new air filters (the old outer filter was pretty clogged). I haven't put in new fuel filter(s) yet, but the machine has the type with a glass cylinder and a drain port, and from the manual it looks like there is also a filter element. I will go through those next. As far as I can tell though, the glass is always full, which tells me the lift pump is working. So I don't know that cleaning it will particularly make a difference. Let's assume not, and that the injector pump is getting all the fuel it wants. So my question to the gurus out there, is what then? Again from the manuals, what controls the fuel is a combination of the governor, and it apparently has a turbo boost control which cuts back the fuel at low boost. Just talking through it: I'm guessing the governor works, since I can generate suitable RPM's at low load. However, if the turbo isn't boosting, then the fuel won't come up. I suppose the turbo could be bad, or the boost connection isn't working right (is it a pressure line, or electrical? Couldn't find more info. Unfortunately the machine is out in the field, so I'm back and forth). Can I disconnect or bypass the boost so the pump will give full fuel? Is there some way to determine if the turbo is boosting properly? Could there be an issue with the governor? Other things to check? Any advice appreciated. Thanks! P.S. as an aside, why does Perkins rate this engine at 111hp, and JCB at 92hp?
Start with fuel, that's the simplest in my mind. The fuel filter bowl is only full because you don't have any air leaks, it won't develop full power without the correct fuel pressure, and that bowl should be under pressure when running in every perkins I've seen. You could tee into the fuel line right before the injection pump, run a hose to a pressure gauge in the cab and see what the fuel pressure does when it bogs down, then you have a logical place to start. Not knowing the injection pump, and not knowing pumps even if you had the model and serial number, I'd look at the pump. Hopefully just one wire going to the injection pump to shut it on and off, not a harness going to all parts of the engine. You probably have a small diameter line coming from the turbo or intake manifold to the injection pump, that's the boost pressure line. It won't do any good to remove it, but you could tee into that one also and see what the boost pressure does. Not so helpful because we already know that it's not making full power... Plus it won't make power without boost, and it won't make boost without fuel, so what came first??? You could take the intake hose off the turbo and inspect the compressor side of the turbo and get a feel for the bearing wear, wear on the fins, etc. There is probably not an issue with the governor. I'd pull the fuel supply apart from the tank to the injection pump, and blow every line and fitting out, then put it back together and see what it does. Or put a pressure gauge in there and see for yourself. Also, how many hours on it? what kind of shape is it in generally? any chance it's sat for a while without much use?
It should be similar to my JCB forklift. If it’s got a mechanical lift pump remove the supply line into it, it screws into a large hex flange you can unscrew. It contains a screen which could very well be clogged. I had similar symptoms with mine. If nothing else it’s a periodic maintenance item you can check off the list.
That inj. pump is a DP200 Delphi pump.. its known to blow the diaphragm on the pump.. IF its blown, you wont reach rated rpm's.. They're not easy to change on account of the tamper screws. 1 easy check is> if its blown, it'll be pressurizing the fuel tank{return fuel}.. Run it wide open & loosen the fuel tank cap slowly & listen for any pressure.. I've seen them so blown that it pushes the fuel OUT OF the tank.. {full tank} If your going to attempt to change the diaphragm{blown} check the screws.. some are 5 sided w/ a nub in the middle & some are 6 sided w/ a nub. You'll HAVE TO post the pump #'s inorder to get the correct diaphragm kit.{on name plate}
Thanks everyone, very helpful suggestions. I'm going to start with the lift pump screen, and also change any other fuel filters. Based on how clogged the air filter was, I wouldn't be overly surprised if this thing ever had any filters changed (!). Yes, will do oil and hydraulics too while I'm at it. The Perkins manual for the AK engine didn't mention the Delphi pump, but I'll find out which it is. Thanks for that suggestion. Easy enough to check. If that still doesn't do it, I'll look into clogged fuel lines and turbo boost control. A related question: I replaced the air filters, but the air flow restriction light still comes on when I floor it and the RPM's can get up there. Any ideas on that? It could be a simple sensor/pressure sender error, since I do have some electrical problems. e.g. tach isn't working right (reads 500 at idle, then goes down slightly and up to about 500-600 when rev'd) Thanks again!
Does the manual say anything about the air flow restriction light? How long does the light stay on? like only a couple seconds while the engine speeds up, or does it stay on as long as the engine is at high RPM? or can you have the engine at full speed and then get the light to turn on by putting a load on the engine? I'm trying to figure if there's some logic to what's causing the light to come on, the movement of the engine and wiring harness, or the turbo spooling up and sucking more air. How many wires connected to the alternator, and is the alternator belt tight and pulleys in good condition? If you couldn't tell, the pumpguy is something of an expert, and since his test is the easiest by far, it would make sense to check that first. Let us know what you find out.
Ah, Delphi=Lucas, company changed names apparently. It is a Lucas 7185/200E. Delmer, the alternator has two wires running to the tach gauge, as in the wiring diagram (I don't have the exact diagram for this machine, but the wire numbers match all the other versions I have). There is one wire from the "W" terminal which I believe is the unrectified output, and one from a three-connector port which also drives the "engine running" relay. The alternator also has a single heavy gauge wire which is the hot battery bus, and it's grounded through the engine (i.e. no ground wire). There could be some sort of bad ground somewhere, since a lot of other things aren't working right either (e.g. tach, various lights/heater/AC/etc). The air flow light comes on when rev'd up regardless of load. I still need to dive into the electrical. Part of the problem is I don't have a layout of the fuses and relays for this machine, but I think I found one now. Anyhow, diving deeper, it looks from the schematic like there is only a simple vacuum switch ("Air Filter Vac Switch", #55) that turns on the light. In the air filter section of the manual it talks about this switch being located on the back of the air filter housing. Maybe the switch is compromised and is giving false readings. I'm going to pull all that apart and make sure there isn't some blockage, though the inner filter looked okay. The outer one was completely loaded up. I changed both. Thanks again.
Update: In short, much improved but still seems a little sluggish. 1) Took the air filters out and looked in there again, and lo and behold, a critter had built a hearty nest up in the air intake, which on my machine is a hose that goes to a screened bulkhead by the front window. There is a small intake on the filter cap, which I think is supposed to have a plug on it but it's missing and I guess the critter found its way in there. Go figure. 2) I took out the lift pump and cleaned the filter screen, which on this one was under the cap. I was expecting it was inline. The screen was coated in fine silt, but didn't seem particularly "clogged". 3) Cleaned the fuel bowl. It had a little scum in the bottom, but not too bad. 4) Put in a new fuel filter. I forgot to bring some spare fuel, so I pumped the fuel bowl full with the lift pump manual lever, with the fuel filter off. Once it was full, a few hundred pumps later, I put the fuel filter on loosely until it was mostly full and leaking, and tightened it up. When I pumped a bit more, I could hear bubbling in the fuel tank. Is this symptomatic of a bad lift pump? Once I got her started, needless to say it ran much better with more power, though was still a little sluggish (i.e. power seemed good but is sluggish coming on). The air flow restriction light doesn't some on anymore. I didn't get a chance to troubleshoot the turbo boost though, nor the turbo bypass valve. So those are still unknowns. I think I'll throw a new lift pump on for good measure too.
The bubbling is normal after changing the filter. That wouldn't have anything to do with a lift pump that I can think of. That's what thepumpguy was talking about with the diaphragm leaking, but that's running, and I wouldn't be able to hear bubbling with the engine running under load when you'll get the most boost. There's plenty of ways to check the fuel return line for air bubbles, and plenty of ways to get those pesky screws off, keep us updated...
Working the HP & hearing bubbles in the fuel tank means ITS WORKING.. what your hearing is fuel being forced thru the pump & back to the tank.. the HP is working.. but just because the HP is.. doesn't mean the actual pump is.. Take off the inlet line AT the inj. pump & spin the engine over.. fuel should SQUIRT OUT & getcha wet..
Thanks guys. Pressure test today. Incidentally, the lift pump on this machine is bolted on with four hex bolts, 10mm socket, so prob an M6-something.
Update: (by the way, this is all very helpful, thanks!) As noted, it's running better on account of getting more air and cleaner fuel filters, but it's still struggling to develop full power after doing some running today. I did the test as suggested by thepumpguy: Loosened the fuel intake at the injector pump, fired it up, and rev'd. It did push some fuel out between the threads, though not full on squirting. I suppose I didn't have it particularly loose, but it was several turns from tight. I'm going to drop in a new lift pump anyway, on order, $18. Next I took a look at the turbo and waste gate. The waste gate lever didn't move regardless of rev'ing. The waste gate actuator hose was pretty cracked on the outside, so I replaced it for now with a 50psi piece of fuel line. Before I attached it to the waste gate actuator, I fired the machine up and basically got no pressure when rev'ing (the waste gate lever was in the open position). From the looks of it, this hose tees off from the turbo output (i.e. intake manifold), and pressurizes the waste gate actuator to open waste gate further. After scratching my head a bit, I did a few power tests with the waste gate open, but no difference. So I'm thinking, is the turbo shot? I figure I should get some decent pressure on that hose. The actuator by the way appears to be functional, as I can pull the rod out somewhat. Related: there is what appears to be an oil pump forward and below the turbo. There is a large rubber hose (intake?) and a small high pressure hose attached to it. The small hose goes to another small device bolted to the block. It has a metal pipe feeding oil to the turbo, and the high pressure hose feeding it. Pic attached below. The high pressure hose is pretty beat and clearly leaks (I'm going to get another asap). However, is this a further sign that the turbo is shot? One can hear it spool up somewhat, but the whistling is not nearly as prevalent as I would think it should be as compared to other turbo machines I've dealt with. Assuming the turbo is shot, can I rebuild the turbo, or is it better to just buy a new one? I rebuilt some on an old Ford backhoe I have with a $20 bearing kit and a new impeller, and they work fine. Was pretty simple, though the housings were in decent shape. Lastly, how does the turbo boost work? It wasn't obvious. I presume there is some sort of pressure hose coming from somewhere to the injector pump, which is a Lucas/Delphi. I imagine if the turbo isn't boosting, then the injector pump is holding back on the fuel and that would be the cause of all this. It's a theory... Thanks again.
A turbo is a turbo.. unless its a variable vane turbo.. which I doubt.. a waste gate is there to "bleed off" any excessive pressure the turbo makes.. hence> "waste" gate.. If it not building pressure.. it aint gonna open.. If u feel comfy doing it.. go for it.. Get the #'s off it & search for o/h kits.. break downs.. ect.. You are correct on the theory.. no boost to the engine means no boost to the pump which means the inj. pump wont pump enough fuel..
I dunno your level of diesel experience, but, I can assure you that free revving a turbodiesel will NEVER generate enough boost to actuate a wastegate, ever.
Right, that's the difference between "high idle speed" (which on a diesel is the same thing as "full throttle" ) and FULL LOAD-when the engine is at full speed and the injection pump is pumping as much as it ever will, and the turbo is spinning as fast as it ever will. The wastegate should be closed except under full load. That "oil pump" is not familiar to me. I doubt it has anything to do with the turbo, where's the medium sized hose go to? The pumpguy suggested taking the line OFF and cranking the engine with the starter to check fuel flow, he also suggested taking the fuel tank cap off after working it hard to see if a leaking diaphragm is pressuring the tank, that's the test I would do.
And, in addition to my above statement, most diesels will not produce more than, say, 3 psi, if that, when at "high idle". Most are actually under 2 psi.
Myself, I'd be curious to know what color smoke, and how much, is exhausting when at high idle under a two function stall such as boom up and bucket curl?
Responses: heymccall, no smoke under any circumstances, which leads me to believe the injection pump is only operating in non-boost mode. Good point about the turbo and high speed idle. With full fuel the exhaust pressure will be much higher due to the extra burning fuel, and hence the turbo will be spinning faster. I hadn't considered that. I'll try to see if the wastegate moves under full load. Delmer, I did those tests. I couldn't take the hose off all the way, because then the engine won't run more than a second or two, but I suppose that's enough. I'll try it. I didn't detect any backpressure coming out of the fuel tank, but I'll try that again too. In any case, I'm just going to put a new lift pump in to eliminate that issue. I'm not sure what that "oil pump" is, but it's clearly part of the turbo lube system. I couldn't find any details anywhere. The Perkins workshop manual (TPD 1350E Issue 4) is frightfully uninformative. Anyone have something better?
I think the Perkins SPI2 is what I need.
There "should be" someplace on the manifold to take "boost pressure".. prob. a 5/16 plug?? A 30psi gauge & a length of hose that'll reach into the cab & your in business.. THEN u can take FULL LOAD boost pres.
Yeah, I'll try, but I also can't develop full load, which is the problem... Below is a pic of the turbo ID plate, but it's a little hard to read (and photograph). It's obviously a Garrett GT2052, but can anyone decipher the version from the pic? Sorry about the quality. It was really hard to get a camera in there at all. Thanks again.
In this case, full load is the load that slows the engine down below full speed. In a backhoe you can do that by driving up a hill in a middle to high gear. is that a coolant hose in the pic in post #12? the medium sized hose with the hose clamp.
Hi Delmer, yeah okay, I'll try it, but I can assure you it's not ~90+HP! LOL I don't know what that large hose is. The small one is clearly oil, and it goes to that smaller thing on the side of the block from which the metal turbo oil line comes off. I got the SPI2 running, and I can't see that whole assembly anywhere, just the turbo oil line and the turbo. Still looking... From SPI2, it also looks like the official part number of the turbo is 2674A391, probably the top line in the picture, though this old turbo is an A325.
Following this thread. I have a mid 90s 217s 4cx and seems under powered in higher gears. I figured it was just bc it was such a large machine (all 4 large tires) It has trouble pulling large hills in 3rd or 4th gear. Now when digging into a dirt pile with front bucket, I have tons of power. Seems to be more than the 90hp new holland tractor we have. I’d like to find a way to get more Hwy/boost power but not sure what to change. Hey pumpguy how can I check to see if I’m getting boost? I have a Lucas CAV pump. I have serial and all if that would help. I just replaced the diaphragm in the AFC as it was leaking fuel. I have an electric fuel pump that the previous owner added. No idea if it’s the correct one or not. My turbo whistles.
Doc>> if you already had the "boost" apart then your familiar w/ the inards.. UNDER the diaph. are some shims.. Takem out.. Probably a .050" stack of'm..?? That'll get u alittle "pep in'r step"..
boost instructions are in post #20. The spec for your engine might be in your manual, or 10-20psi would seem fine to me.
Only thing I took off was the outer afc casing. It just had the diaphragm, spring, and a plunger rod is what I’d call it that goes into the pump itself. Just one about 1.5”-2” long. Are you saying that that rod completely out ?
I'm starting to be convinced that thing in the picture from post #12 is the lubrication oil pump. Supposedly this engine has some oil sprayers in the block that lubricate the pistons more directly. I suppose it's possible this pump can go on either side of the engine, depending on configuration. Attached are a couple of screen shots from SPI2, and neither one has the pump in it, but both sides of the engine have a port on the sides near the lower front of the engine.
Doc.. under the spring around the threaded bushing, are shims..
its a connector/regulator,,,connects oil from pump to the bearings of the 10,000 RPM turbo
You're referring to the small metal block bolted to the side of the engine block with the rubber hose attached to it and the turbo oil feed line? The other end of the rubber hose I presume is connecting to the lubrication oil pump, in this case installed on the front right side of the engine. Ref photo in post #12. I can't find any part numbers for either that hose (which I need to replace), or what I think is the pump.
Update: I pulled the turbo out and it seems fine. In fact, I think this machine has pretty low hours, but just had very little maintenance. I ordered a new lift pump and went to install it, but the pump lever was a slightly different shape and thus didn't fit. So I took the old one apart and it seemed fine too. Sprayed it out just in case. So... I'm pretty sure the fuel is getting to the fuel filter okay, but... then what happens...? There are six pipes going in and out of the filter. It's the boost that has me very confused, and as I mentioned, I can't find the doc's for this particular machine. I pasted below an annotated picture of the fuel lines and fuel filter. Yellow is the primary fuel line coming from the lift pump and into the injector pump. Green is the coming from the injector pump and also from the in injectors, some sort of return? Red comes from the intake manifold (pressurized by the turbo), through (?) the fuel filter mount, and down to the top/end of the injector pump just above where the four injector lines some out of the back. There's also the kill solenoid, which has the blue connector. Questions: 1) What are all these lines actually, and how are plumbed inside of the fuel filter mount? 2) How does the injector pump boost work? What's boosting what? Is the boost line coming from the intake manifold in fact pneumatic? There is incidentally a single wire connected to the fitting on the intake manifold, so there seems to be some sort of sender. (Gosh, this sure would be easier with the manuals...) Lastly, I found this in another forum: This seems consistent with what pumpguy noted, though with a twist. Anyway, if someone can explain the entire "boost" system to me, I'd be eternally grateful. The pump by the way is a Lucas type 1182 (which is a delphi dp200?), model 8920A332T Thanks!
What’s your serial number ? I probably have the correct manual for you
Red is inlet. Green & Yellow are return fuel. The TOP line on the "afc" is the turbo boost line// pressurized air comes off the intake manifold..{I think} The bottom "afc" line hooks into the return also.. hence if the diaphragm blows, it pressurizes the return fuel & the fuel tank..
And FYI I replaced that diaphragm and it didn’t make any difference on my machine as far as road gears. My low end torque has always been good.
Hi Therapydoc, thanks kindly. 472245 ca 1998. I've managed to find a manual or two that claim to cover it, but not so much. Electrical is wrong. Also, these manuals don't cover much about the engine or fuel system and more or less "redirect". I then found a Perkins manual and not much there either on the boost system, though slightly more in that they at least list the pumps they use. So then I was looking for a Lucas/Delphi manual for the pump itself but haven't located one yet. PM me as needed. Thanks again
The pump manual will just tell u about "rebuilding" the pump.. nothing else.. I think they're avail. if u search DP200 work shop manual..?? I think u want the perkins PHASER 1000/1100 engine manual..
The Perkins 1000 manual I found was about useless. More of an operators manual and maintenance manual than service. If anyone finds something else let me know
I'll try to dig up the manual #.. I posted it awhile back.. .. In the meantime, try searching for it up top in the search box.. Its a COMPLETE engine teardown & rebuild manual along w/ ALL the components..
Update: Therapydoc, thanks for the manual. Indeed, it's not totally compatible--electrically at least--with my machine. Mystifying why it's not out there. I have 3-4 different ones now. Mostly I need to decipher which fuses and relays are which! I have a lot of electrical stuff not working yet, e.g. AC, various lights, etc. Also the tach... very weird. 0But its the same on all the machines, just two taps off the alternator. I finally got the picture together on the boost. Pics below for the next guy looking at this. It's the round assembly on the front/top of the pump. One line goes in marked "air" with an arrow. That line comes from a tap on the intake manifold at the very front of it (see other pic). I disconnected the boost line at both ends and blew it out, and also the connector at the manifold, but it didn't make a difference. I also found a dp200 workshop manual, and its got various instructions for assembly/ disassembly. However, mine has that tamper proof screw, so I'm about to look for that tool or drill them out or dremmel a slot in them for a screwdriver. I keep forgetting to explicitly do the pressure check at the gas cap, but I also haven't noticed any hissing/etc. One thing I did do is this: the small ~1.5" plug at the bottom of the air filter is missing on my machine. I put my hand over it and played with the throttle, expecting it to be sucking (especially with the turbo spooled up), but often it was actually fairly pressurized. Is this normal? Or is there a blockage in my intake manifold or something? (As noted early on, there was a critter nest at the air intake before the air filter). Lastly, below is also attached a picture of the mystery intake manifold tap on the right rear of the engine above the turbo. There is a wire coming off, which appears to be the pressure sender for the airflow restriction light, but there is also a 1/8" pipe coming off it which runs somewhere over toward the other side of the engine. Originally I thought it was the boost and that it ran somehow into the oil filter mount (?!), but I can't really tell where it goes since it disappears behind the engine and I wasn't able to track it with certainty. Why would a fuel return line go to the intake manifold? Thanks again everyone!
For archival purposes, the tool for the tamper proof screws is a "5 point pentalobe torx" bit, not sure what number (i.e. size). I ordered a set on ebay for about $6.
Pentalobe.?? Mine are marked Tamperproof.. Reminds me of "Jackalope".. lol U have to be very careful where u buy them.. I wont use anything but "Strap-on's" otherwise they break after the first attempt.. & if u only have 1.?? well ur standing there lookin goofy.. lol Almost every pump manuf. has started using them.. so I just buy 2 ata time..{singles} BTW> have u checked the throttle LEVER movement.?? is it hitting the stop screw @ wide open throttle.?? U can get more rpms by UNSCREWING the stop screw a full turn.. NO MORE.. especially if your tach is broken.!!! A HAND HELD LASER tach is the only thing I use.. NEVER rely on a machines tach..
Are u getting the "bits" to take the cover off the booster on the pump?? If its blown, it'll be obvious.. Once u determine its condition.. push down on it or the rod underneath.. The rod should come back up under its own power.. I've seen those things get so stuck from water in the fuel {rust} that u would hafta take a punch & hammer to getm loose. IF that rod is stuck, u found your problem.. & of course a blown diaph. Good luck & I HOPE you find something.. OH.. 1 MORE THING>> get yourself a hand impact driver..& use it w/ those bits.. 1 or 2 hits w/ a hammer & they'll unscrew.. IF U DONT, those bits will break.
Thanks 'pumpguy. I poked around for a bit and couldn't find it. I do have the rebuild manual from Delphi. I'm hoping someone can still answer my question about the turbo back pressure I encountered when rev'ing (under no load). I described it in more detail above, but basically: there's a small plug on the main air filter cap, and when I rev the engine, I get positive pressure out of it. Is this normal? I'd think it would be sucking, no? If it's normal, why is this? If it's not normal, what could be causing it? (some restriction in the intake manifold? valve timing issue? bad valve? exhaust gas somehow getting back into the intake through the turbo or somewhere? Something else?) Obviously this would explain the power problem I'm having.
For archival purposes: I've learned that the positive pressure at the air filter apparently is for dust evacuation, i.e. there is some sort of valve that normally goes in the hole which vents out dust as it collects. It was deep in a Perkin's manual and I found it at someone' suggestion. Darn it. Need to find something that's actually wrong here.
Thanks 'pumpguy! That's the next plan, super helpful. I'm VERY seriously hoping said rod is stuck in the up position (!) Bits are in hand. Will be extra careful to not strip them. I do have an impact driver. Sounds like they are super-torqued?
Just curious ..did anyone check governor rack on fuel pump?
No rack.. rotary pump..
My turbo boost cover bolts weren’t that tight really. Maybe a 10mm if I remember. I actually replaced them with black oxide Allen socket head screws that are easier to get ahold of
Update: OKAY! 'Pumpguy, you know your stuff. Attached below, pix of bad boost diaphragm. And I mean bad. The cover screws came off pretty easily, I just put the bit on a small socket wrench. The "5 lobe security torx" is a #25, for the archive. I need a new diaphragm. Does anyone know where I can get one in the USA? Delphi sells them in their store in UK, and there are European ebay sellers, but I haven't found a faster source. I've got a request in to our regional diesel service shop. The part is Lucas/Delphi/CAV PN 7243-006 for the assembly, and I think the diaphragm by itself is 7182-580A. It's 43mm.
7135-277G there’s also some different ones on eBay. My local guy had a generic rebuild kit that I broke the plastic center piece out and just used diaphragm with all old parts.
Doc is correct, this time.. 7135-277G They are NOT all the same, so be careful with "a little knowledge".. Oblek.. yours should be a plug & play.. order the kit & drop the diaphr. in & button it up. IF u cant find the kit lemme know.. I might have 1 "layin around".. OH & TO QUOTE ANOTHER RECENT THREAD.. "I am SO impressed w/my work"..
What's the difference in the diaphragms? I've been looking around of a couple hours now and it seems like people talk about them pretty arbitrarily. I don't have the parts manual though. This doc lists a bunch of part numbers, old and new: http://www.delphidiesel.com/SD_ONLY/MORED0CS/HIDDEN/SI Notes/513.pdf Old Part No. Description New Part No. P/List Lsn 7182-643 Boost Diaphragm 7243-006* 732 7243-090 Boost Diaphragm 7243-006* 732 7135-277D DP200 Side Boost Kit 7135-277F 9999 7182-643A Boost Diaphragm 7243-053* 732 7135-277C DP200 Top Boost Kit 7135-277E 9999 7135-125 DPS Overhaul Kit 7135-277G 9999 * This too: http://www.delphidiesel.com/sd_only/MORED0CS/HIDDEN/SI Notes/527.pdf The only real difference I can see anywhere is the side mount and top mount boost control. Generically, everything seems to point to this kit: 7135-277J But I can't find the darn thing (or any of these) anywhere in the US online. Hoping my local diesel shop has one on the shelf. Incidentally, this doc: http://www.delphidiesel.com/SD_ONLY/MORED0CS/HIDDEN/SI 20Notes/514.pdf says: "Customers must be advised that boost diaphragms MUST NOT be changed without a full pump re-test. If a customer wishes to purchase a diaphragm kit, they should be made aware that changing the diaphragm on the pump would affect the calibration of the pump, which could cause engine problems. If the pump is not re-tested, it will not meet the original engine performance and you will not be able to ensure engine emissions comply with emissions legislation. Any vehicle failing roadside emissions checks could lead to fines/prosecution for the driver/owner and possible liability to the seller of the pump components." Heh! Not planning on that.
It doesn't matter what the diff. is.. it just is.. I can get the kit.. 76.09 + frt.. to me & then to u..
Update: I was able to locate a kit locally from a diesel shop, PN 2135-277F in this case, had to pay the "convenience tax" since they are only about $40 with shipping from Delphi directly (shipped from UK). It appears that 2135-277x (where x is D,E,F,G, maybe others) all have the same shape of diaphragm in them, though G I think is Viton, i.e. a better material. Some of them have a plastic assembly as Doc I think noted. In my case, I had to remove the new diaphragm and mount it on the old assembly because the metal cup that sits on the plunger was a different shape. So, I dropped it in, and wah-lah! Huge difference. There's a guy in Germany on ebay that sells just the diaphragm with no hardware for about $10 plus shipping, so I'm going to order a spare or two. I also discovered the tach wasn't working because the alternator belts were slipping (quietly). Yay, easy fix. I think the machine is still a little under-powered so I may take out that shim. We'll see. Anyway, I think we're mostly good! Thanks everyone. I'll post more if anything changes.
If you take shims out, can you try to take some pictures of where they are and what they look like? I’m still lost on that one. I’d be curious to see how much added power you get.
Hi everyone, Small update and question: The machine has been running pretty well with the new diaphragm, and I'm able to get full RPMs while driving. However, I'm still not getting the power I need when pushing into a pile and scooping up the front end loader. Basically when I've got it in first, I'm pushing into a pile, the RPMs sag, and I loose power. I presume this is because the turbo boost has let off. 'pumpguy, are you still out there? We've touched on the adjustments one can make in the boost diaphragm assembly, but what are these actually doing? What I think I need for my situation is more sensitivity, i.e. that the boost starts happening at lower pressure, so that it's boosting when the RPM's otherwise start sagging. I noted that the diagrams say that there is a screw adjustment of some sort--is this adjusting the preload on a spring that the diaphragm pushes on, and it can be softened? I imagine there is also an adjustment for how much boost you can get, i.e. a limit stop on the fuel, and it sounds like the shims would perhaps do that. Anyway, before I open it up again, I thought I'd ask. Thanks!
We've "talked" about the shims till I'm blue in the face..{fingers} YES they have/had shims.. They are/were under the diaph.. & under the spring.. the spring IS SITTING ON the shims..if they're still there.. The shims tell the diaphr. when to start throwing the fuel to it.. LESS SHIMS means it'll come in quicker.. That's why I keep telling u to TAKE THEM OUT.. As far as any screw adjustment go.. they've probably been turned already?? it takes about 700.00 in special tools to set 1 up to spec & THEN u can start to mess w/ it.. The only advice I can give u is>> Take out the shims & move the screw adjustment 1 way or the other BUT keep note of which way & how much u turned it.. good luck.. BTW> have u ever taken a boost reading.!!?? Ur probably whipping a dead horse & ur trying to shove fuel up its azz.