As a work my way through the tiny annoyances that come with buying a used hoe, I've found an intermittent JCB quick connect. The switch on the dash is a SPST, and switches + 12 volts to one wire leading to the solenoids. +12 volts activates the disconnection and no voltage returns the locking pin to the "lock position". + 12 and ground from the dashboard go to the solenoid valve box - a yellow wire and a white wire. Each of these individual wires connects to a pair of wires, each going to one of the two solenoids each - two blacks and two whites. I initially thought that the dash switch would be a DP ST, which would apply 12 volts to activate unlock when I throw the temporary toggle switch, and 12 volts to unlock when I release. But all the dash switch does is turn 12 volts on and off to one wire. Why two wires leading from the dash, but four connections to the solenoid valves? IE, why two solenoid valves that get voltage under the exact same conditions? Thanks
If it is a Deere installed JRB coupler then the dash switch would go to the auxiliary controller and then the controller would control the two solenoids to operate the coupler. One solenoid directs oil to the rod end of the coupler cylinder to release the coupler and the other solenoid is to momentarily raise the Priority Valve Load Sense pressure to raise the pressure in the system for 5 seconds for moving the coupler cylinder.
It is a Deere installed JRB. That explains the two solenoids that seem to fire at the same time. Makes sense. How do I troubleshoot if it's the solenoids, or the valves, and which one would be bad? JCB mentioned something about a check valve that might need cleaning, but didn't provide details. There are four hydraulic hoses going to this solenoid / valve box. Two come from a tap off of the lines that run the up and down cylinder, and two go to the cylinder that controls the locking bolt. I pulled the nuts off the electrical part of the solenoid (A Parker CCS012H), and they seem to be a magnetic coil that surrounds a steel rod that go into the valve box. Tried to unwrench these rods, but they are stuck.
The box is a jrb c33274-12. Deere wants $2600 just for that box. Plus shipping of course. This is good practice for when I buy a Bugatti, Lamborghini, Ferrari or Rolls. When I go to service those, it's going to feel like servicing a Toyota compared to anything Deere yellow. Good thing I can fix some of this stuff myself.
Called JRB, and they told me to stick a screwdriver into the hole in the coil, and energize. If the screwdriver gets attracted to the side of the coil, the coil is good. Did that, and both coils check out fine. Now figuring how to clean the check valve, and check the valve parts that get actuated by the coils.
Is the coupler pins just stuck from lack of use. We have a wheel loader with a JRB coupler and it doesn't get used much and sometimes the pins will not retract, we spray the crap outta them with PB blaster and they will release. So now we try to cycle them one a week.
The problem was operator error. You need to move the bucket into the curled toward you position until it stops, and then keep applying hydraulic pressure as if you are trying to keep the bucket curling. You then flip the switch, and the pin retracts. I just curled the bucket and then released the control, leaving no hydraulic pressure to move the pins. I did use the time to clean and lube everything and cycle the pin a bunch of times. Lining up the bucket to reattach is a learning curve by itself. Took me 30 tries, in and out of the cab. I’ll learn.
Should have mentioned you need to flip the switch, curl back all the way, and hold until they retract, sorry for not mentioning it When hooking back up, put the loader arms almost all the way down, curl coupler out (dump), slowly drive into bucket, slowly lift and it “should” grab the hooks as long as you’re low enough, curl back, flip the switch to reconnect, and apply pressure curling back, and ALWAYS dump the bucket low to the ground and slowly (and not over anyone or anything) to make sure it’s connected.
Good advice. I know to get out of the cab, and visually examine the pins to insure that they are fully engaged. I also noticed that there is a position that allows you to see the pins so you can guide them into the tabs on the bucket.
Once you've it got on the top hooks, curl back and give a bit of a "shake" and then engage the pins and you should be good to go. I always bring the arms up to a point where I can visually see the pins have engaged and then lower down and slowly tip the bucket to make sure all is good.