I'm looking at an older JD 300B backhoe I found locally for sale but have a couple questions on the unit. I do not know the exact year of the tractor, it's labeled as '300-B' and has a 3 cly diesel. I have not personally seen the tractor yet, so this is all based on what the seller told me. The tractor runs but is low on power. Apparently a mechanic told him the compression rings are blown, not sure what his basis for the diagnosis was. Other than low in power, everything supposedly works. He says it has a new rebuilt injection pump and a rebuilt 400 series hydraulic pump. Questions: 1) What's involved in doing rings on the engine? Any special tools or knowledge? I'm a proficient automotive mechanic, and have done pickup diesel work including full rebuild, just never touched a wet sleeve industrial motor like this. How much of a pain is it to inframe it? Is it worth pulling the engine to rebuild or just inframe it? (assuming the crank is still good) 2) What are the common failure points on these tractors? Anything in particular to look at? 3) In general what the reputation of these units? It seems a bit on the small side for a TLB, makes it easier to more but are they less durable as well? I'd be looking at this as a general ranch tractor, probably not going get to get used too much or for any real heavy work. I don't mind if it's not as efficient or ergonomical as a newer tractor, just that it'll get the job done and hopefully not cost me an arm and a leg to keep running. Thanks, ~John
I don't have answers to all of your questions, but here is some info. The spec sheet for this machine is at this link: http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/construction/non_current_products/backhoes/300B.pdf To figure out what year it is you need the serial # that is inboard of the left front tire on the main frame. On my older Deere 410-B, the s/n is 166366 and by that number the parts guy at JD looked up the build date of Jan 1974. If the rings are bad then you should have quite a bit of blowby out of the vent tube.
Thanks. What's the difference between a 300 & a 310? What else uses the same engine as this tractor? Thanks, ~John
The 310B was a commercial grade backhoe with self levelling loader bucket and the floor boards were above the transmission housing. The 300 was a farm tractor that could have a backhoe attached.
I haven't worked on the 3 cyl Deere engine, but I replaced pistons and liners in the 4-239 engine, was no problem. As long as you can get the oil pan off and the crank bearings are good, I would give it a go, but I would have the head gone through as well if I dropped new pistons/liners in it. If it requires more extensive rebuild, as in pulling engine, would be much more involved as the 300B is like a farm tractor chassis with engine acting as frame member. It would require splitting the tractor to remove engine.
Deon summed up the differences briefly, also I think there is about 4000 lbs+ of weight difference between the two. When trying to get something done moving dirt, weight is definitely a good thing. The link to compare all old Deere backhoes by specifications is: http://www.deere.com/wps/dcom/en_US/products/non_current/backhoe_loaders/backhoe_loaders.page? I am pretty sure the engine (diesel) in that is a 3164. The 3 means 3 cylinder and the 164 is the CID. As far as others that had the 3164, the 310 backhoe had it, but the later build 310A and B had the 4 cylinder 4219 (these are the old square backhoes, not to be confused with a 310B that had the rounded ROPS/EROPS and a torque converter trans). I ran a 3 cyl 310 and the 4 cyl 410 about 25 years ago. The 4 cyl definitely had more power. Also, FWIW, I paid $4800 for my 410 a year ago. I have put a couple of hundred into it with pins and bushings and it is serving me pretty well for intermittant use.
Well, I must say that for the right price they are a great do it your self kind of tractor. However if you use it much on a mountain ranch moving a lot of heavy clay and rock I'd have to tell you there are some thing you might want to consider. For instance I don't know if your aware that the engine block itself is part of the heavy old tractors frame and if you ask too much of it don't be surprised if you crack your engine block down the side and or pan as well... Mind you this is an old tractor but it just can't handle the industries standard. That's not the only fatigues that mine has presented in a short time. (1 month of heavy use) Now mind you it's a great big strong running 3 banger bud she's a thirsty one! Amazingly she still runs even with the crack in the block! I did have to drop that big old heavy cast iron oil pan clean it up v grove it out stick it in the oven clamp it down to a plate and arc weld that big ole pig up. AND BOY THAT WAS A JOB ! And you can bet it probably won't last too much longer but she still goes good. But I'll be dawg gone if I didn't break the back hoe's arm pivot clean out of the fulcrum point and the ram severed the tip right where the pin goes trough it. I been more concerned on the front loader being that the support gusset has a big fat gap of a crack completely around one side of the buckets loader arms, but that's not it! One of my landing gear for the back hoe completely broke out of it's bracket with partially bent/sheered pin so needless to say she not for the HARD CORE EXCAVATING .
I'm sorry mine isn't the 3 cylinder diesel , those do run great though buy the way just not as snappy as the internal combustion gas version that my JD300b has. The diesel one I have is a JD1520 and it's a smooth and pretty efficient little farm tractor. And I was told that from the feller I picked these here tractors up from that they call the back hoe version with the gas motor a WEIRD DEER ? And the deer emblem on the front is on upside down obviously it's yellow and not green. That is a little weird! I never asked if that were truly what they called it at John Deer or not but it made since to me .. Hope that helps! God bless