hi i had earlier posts this year for oil cooler but i bypassed it for now as i not paying 1500 for an oil cooler.. but i thought because it lost alot of fluid it was reason i had no brakes... i retopped up fluid with the bypass i built... and yet still no brakes i dont think both sides would need replacing the pads... but i can pushthe pedals to the floor with my hand easily... so im guessing the rubber seals in the block are gone? can these be serviced or do you need a new block etc what be the procedure for fixing this tis a JD 310A backhoe
I assume you have bleed the brakes out good, can take a while sometimes, both sides going at the same time never seen that happen could but never seen it happen.
no i wouldnt even know where to bleed the brakes never done a backhoe.. car or my pickup truck ya... and didnt know it needs bleeding? figured it uses hydraulic fluid from tranny and it works same as the cylinders and in and out and by just pumping it it bleed like that... so no i dunno how to do these or where... if you can tell me how break
mostly the same as car or pickup not 100% sure on your machine but I think the bleeders are on top of rear axle housing.
oh ok and since i by myself i dont have anyone to bleed it does it work same way as a car or truck bleeding or are different backhoes bleed differently.. hopefully its just a bleeding thing and not need to rebuild anything aod do the tires normally have to come off or can you bleed it with it on
On my model..... 310b... its a two man job for sure. When bleeding one side, the other pedal must be depressed an inch or two and held there while you do a "normal" procedure on the other side. The bleeders are on each axle housing. With a 'no brake' situation.... that's where you want to start. Bleed 'em. Simple to do.... pull the rear floor pans. If that does not fix ya up..... then lots of fun awaits. There are ( on my 'b') two seals on each side. Have to pull the axle housing to get at them.....wet brake disk too. Pulling the housings is simple enough, but removing them away from the frame requires some work. I would think you could work on the seals with the housing just 'loose' but it would be tight quarters.
Really easy to bleed brakes by your self take floor plates up on each side of seat were axle housing bolts on you will see a bleeder valve sticking up may have plastic cap on them, you can sit and the seat and bleed them, taking a ratchet with a long extension on it and i believe it takes a 3/8 or 7/16 size socket, start pumping breaks with machine running till you get a little bit of pedal on the right side hold pressure on the break pedal and open the bleeder valve a little bit and let some of the air and fluid out some times you can hear it make a spitting sound, when pedal is almost at the floor tighten bleeder valve back up and repeat till you get full pedal then do left hand side, done it hundreds of times by my self. Been doing my own machine work for the last 40 year and own mostly john deere machines.
so i took a video and tried bleeding.. had the backhoe running like you said tried also when it was off still couldnt get it to presureize.. in the video youll see where i loosen wait a bit while i wait a bit my foot is still holding to the floor till you see i tighten it.. and then i release the foot and then when i unloosen bleeder i then press down again.. i did it 20 times it didnt help here is video
Not sure if it makes any difference..... I worked one brake pedal( side) at a time. And.. I understand about workin solo..... but, this is where another hand helps. I did have a section of clear hose on the bleeder nipple... this lets you "see" the oil and the air, if its there. We opened bleeder, then depressed pedal( one stroke down) and held until bleeder closed, then released pedal. Sure, it could be done solo, sort of like Nixon's secretary and the 'tape' machine!..... but tough to see just whats coming thru the bleeder. Now, my seals were leaking.... but when I bled the system ( before the seal change) I did get some brake firmness, which I had a bit before, but knew I had an issue.
Comet, check out this link, could help. https://www.justanswer.com/construction-and-road-equipment/8j0xc-bleed-brakes-310c.html
Just a little information how cold is it were you are at when real cold very hard to bleed out, here is what i want you to try get on the hoe and start pumping brake right pedal may take a little bit till you get a full pedal if you can may take as high as thirty pumps on the pedal to do this, once you get it pumped up hold down real hard on the pedal and see if it sinks down, if it stays up let up on it and wait a couple of minutes and then press down on it and see if it sinks, because in the video there still air bubbles coming out, also looks like you have a little water mixed with you hydro fluid kinda got a grey color to it. Been working just got to see your post tonight.
I think it is time to pull the suction screen and see if it is blocked with trashed discs. You started the post by bypassing the oil cooler that may have just a symptom of your problem. Not trying to be a jack *** but thinking if fluid is flowing free the brake and steering should bleed easy.
sorry for delay been in hospital for a week so i haven't done email or nothing.. as in the video i did the single way of bleeding you seen.. you see it bubble kinda so dunno i did that for 20 times.. and the other side i not sure what the one is as i cant loosen it so couldn't bleed the right side... as for the temperature when i was doing that it was +8C outside as for the bypassing the reason i did so is i keep having the rad soldered but they don't gurantee it as they solder differently so the pressure cant be done... i cleaned out the clean out screen last year i did all that work removing the oil filter and hoses bracket to slide that long screen out.. and what disc's would be in there you mentioned as i get 2500psi at the pump works fine hydraulics... the steering works the hoe works outriggers bucket etc works fine... and what seals would i need replacing?? and ill check out the link you posted too to see that too
Sorry.... what I thought I saw in the video was both brake pedals( left and right) locked together, being pumped as a pair. What I had done , was unlocked the pedals, and pumped and bled, one side at a time. I did check my manual, on my 1st reply I stated I depressed one side an inch and held there while I bled the other..... that procedure ( holding one side while working on the other) was to adjust the brake pedals themselves. not needed in bleeding... but that's how I bled mine.. after the seal replacement. !st time I have had brakes since I picked the machine up a couple years back... brakes are a PLUS !! The brake pressure plate.... the part that moves in response to pedal motion... pushes on the brake disk forcing it against the case of the machine. That plate has two seals.... "large o-ring type". That is the setup on my 'b'. If your A is an early one it might be different?? One way to tell is by looking at JDparts.....
in video i was doing both 1 pedal and 2 pedals... but on the right Side there is no bleeder it looks like a quick connector or so... and both brakes went at the same time though..i was figuring maybe seals right at the foot pedals? that let the oil feed either side maybe there is a seal that is bypassing the pedal? and if its leaking at the brakes at the wheels should the oil be leaking outside of the backhoe?.. as for the A B i don't know much of a difference between them and that link for a C wasn't the same as it doesn't show bleeders on the top of the axels but shows brake lines... i was hoping i could seen a brake line unscrew it and put a pressure gauge on it and press pedal see if i get pressure.. then that tell u if the brake pedal is good or if the wheel axel seals are gone?? and then I'm guessing that's a tire removal.. and that be a next year job as its too cold to work on that outside no heated shop... and i might as replace the brakes while in there.. and maybe the shaft bearing?? if i gotta pull it out
reason i say maybe change bearigns as it used to every 1 full roation of the tire.. youd hear this big Bang sound... bang....... bang.... bang.... as the people that owned the hoe before me used to use the hoe without the outriggers... but it hasn't made the noise in several years... but last year i did a fluid flush and screen cleaning.. but never been able to get all that water out of the oil not sure where it gets in
If the seals on the pressure plate are bad you will not see any leaking oil.... it would just leak into the 'already full of hyd oil" axle housing.. Other than the brake disk ( pad) the seals are the only wear items inside the axle housing. When I bled mine I did not pump the pedal. Open bleeder, depress pedal to floor, close bleeder, release pedal slowly. Had a hose on the bleeder( clear) that emptied into the top of the case at the hyd oil dipstick. With that, easy to see the air in the system.. and when you have it out. I'm sure its possible to have leaks at the pedals which could also be "internal" and not show up as an external leak. Not sure how one would check that.
Also...... that right side has an oil temp sender ( there were several on mine) where the bleeder should be. If its not hooked up ( elec) then I would pull it out and put a bleeder in there. Series A and B are pretty much same machine..... C started a whole new set-up I had an issue when I bought my machine with the brakes not working well. In checking the sump screen at one point I had metal in the sump.... shavings. From reading, I thought bake related. Last fall my rear locked up. Turned out the thrust washers had given way and my planetary imploded. Pulled the axle housing out for the repair...... planned to do the brake seals then... and when I went to drop the other housing for the seal replacement, turned out that side had the same issue with the gears... so that side came off also. 3k+ later and back side is good to go.... and the brakes work now!
ah how much work was that to pull that all apart.. as in video you only see a little oil coming out ya its frustrating.. what would those banging sounds i heard in past be? and i figured it be the oil feeding the pedals since both lost pressure same time as youd think only 1 side would blow right not both sides loose it completely.. did you take any pics when you took yours apart etc
Sorry... no pics. There was a video I looked at...... must be utube? of a brake job. The axle housings (each side) come off easy enough... but to remove them away from the frame is another story. The manual says... step one pull the hoe frame off the back end !( so the hosing can move straight back and away)... well all my pins for that were not gonna came loose The other option is pull pins on what is a forward brace... then you jack that brace up and slip the housing out. That pin was stuck too so I cut the brace, pulled the housing, and bolted it back together after with a face plate. I would think that to just pull the housing to replace brake seals you might not need to pull the housing all the way out from the machine but I can not speak from experience... was gonna try to do that on mine till I saw the 'other' side needed to come all the way off for repair too.