Having trouble starting the backhoe. Batteries charge up on battery charger, but trying to start is slow and 'rattling' sound at starter and batteries go from 100% to 70% with just two tries. Ground at battery is pretty warm after trying to start. Had cleaned all battery terminals with no improvement. Plan to clean other connections, check wires and check it out this weekend. I did a search here, but couldn't find a troubleshooting diagram that I recall seeing somewhere about testing the starter/charger system with diagnostics, readings etc. Does someone have a link to a diagram or something? Thanks,
If the batteries are in fact good, and the connections at the battery are clean and sound, and the ground cable at the battery is getting warm after two tries, I wager that starter has issues internally and is allowing positive current to return to ground at the battery because that energy is not being expended in the starter the way it should be.
I can remove it to bench test, maybe clean it up. I'd like to be sure what it is and in the past I havent found any shops that can load test a starter, just sort of judge by sound or if it spins at all of course.
In my experience, bench testing a starter does little to tell you what kind of shape it is inside because you can't put a load on the starter like it gets when cranking an engine. Starters, especially one of that vintage, are rather simple critters to bust apart. If I suspect a problem with a starter I simply take it to my local starter shop and have them take it apart. Once that's done, visual inspection of the internals will tell you way more than a bench test. Also the Armature and Commutator can be properly tested then, and it typically doesn't take much coin to do this.
Measure the voltage drop between the engine block and battery ground while cranking
We had a 510 back in the day, the Delco starters, no matter who rebuilt them including Deere reman, were only good for a few months. Part of that was due to the Roosamaster fuel system, they were not good for starting in even mild winter weather. The brushes and armature were constant issues, if the starter did last a while, the bushings would wear to the point the armature was dragging on the field coil inserts. The final solution was a Denso gear reduction starter, whipped her right over, lasted for many years. YMMV
My guess is you have one set of brushes worn out or stuck. This makes a 20mt starter into a 10 mt starter, or maybe you have a field set with some shorted turns. If you have a growler you can test the fields with a hacksaw blade. The old way to test starters was put it in a vice with the wires connected and force a ash or hickory hammer handle in the space between the drive gear and housing, quick and dirty but it works!
If it was me, I would pull the starter and drop it off at the local shop. I am used to getting one day turn arounds on starters, alternators and generators at one shop, and electric motors at a second shop. I typically have one spare starter per equipment type handy. I am guessing either bad brushes or an internal short. Last time I got called out on a late night service call and it was for a late 80's BMW airhead competing in the Iron Butt Rally (11k miles in 10 days on a motorcycle, timed rally course), and I just pulled a shop rebuilt starter off the shelf, and got the guy turned around in under an hour. Still haven't got paid for the starter, but he is good for it... Howard
Was able to pin point my problem to the starter by using a clamp-on ammeter. You can look up the full amp draw of the starter on line. A most quick and easy way for sure. If you have the time to wait, then buy a starter off E-bay. I got one for $100, gear type for a 310C... Spins it well. Compare the shop price for a rebuild.
I agree with mike check your voltage drop on your cables should be around .2 volt aprox any more than this could indicate undersisize cable has been fitted or cable is full of green death Mark