My JD 310C is hard to crank. Once it has been started it starts easly the rest of the day. My question is: does the hydraulic pump have a bypass to keep the pump from pumping while starting the engine? if so, where is it located and how does it operate? I also think something is draining my batteries down. Any suggestions on how to find it? Kobb
No, I don't believe the pump has any bypass, unlike the 410 etc, which do something like that. Starting easily the rest of the day is expected because everything is warmer and easier to turn. There are lots of ways to find the problem with the batteries draining. Assuming you don't have the "proper" equipment, and you DO have some time to figure it out, disconnect the grounds from each battery the next time you've used it enough that the batteries should be charged up, if you have a meter read the voltage running, separately after you've disconnected the batteries, and separately before you hook it back up to try it the next time. If it starts better then you can start looking for the drain, most likely the alternator. If there is a drain though the batteries usually are completely dead in a week, so if it's slow to start after a day and the same after two weeks, it's not a battery drain. Could be old/weak batteries, weak starter, bad connections/cables, maybe weak alternator?
Thank you very much for the information. When running my meter says 14 volts but only 12 when not running. I would have though the alternator should have been more like 17 volts but anything over 12 is at least charging the batteries. Its usually slow to start after a week. It does pretty well thorough the weekend but it sits all week and then want start. Batteries test good and hold a good charge when not connected in the battery box, but if left connected it is very slow or has to be jumped off. You say replacing the alternator may help this? huh, you learn something new everyday! Thanks again for your input. Kobb
Kobb, The 14 volts your batteries read while engine is on is good. Anywhere between 14 and 14.8 is good. 12 volts with engine off is very week. A good battery will read 12.3 to 12.9 when left to set 12 hrs. after being charged. It may read that high immediately after being charged but you should let it set 12 or more hours before testing voltage. A good way to test a battery is to charge it separately, one at a time, not connected to the tractor for 12 hours. Let it set off the charger for 12 hrs and test with volt meter. If less that 12.2 its bad or at least badly sulphated. If sulphated, it can be de-sulphated with a good battery charger like the Battery Minder products. Sulphating occurs when a battery is left to discharge and begins when the battery has less than 12.2 volts.
If the batteries will crank it fine on a cold morning if it was used the day before then I wouldn't worry about the batteries. If it takes a week to drain the batteries down, but they will start it if they're disconnected for that week, then I'd say you have a drain. The alternator is the only thing I know of that can drain on these things, no clock, radio or computers, and the accessories are on a relay. The diodes/rectifier in the alternator are the "one way valve" that converts AC to DC, and the alternator doesn't get disconnected (unless you disconnect the big wire to test the leakage, but be careful it's hooked straight to the hot battery terminal). You could pull the alternator apart and test the diodes individually, or just replace the rectifier for $10-20. The other possibility is enough dirt and moisture built up to leak current from any of the wiring that stays hot.
Your getting very good tips here. I can add one more. You mention batteries so you must have 2. Test your batteries separately because if one is weak it will discharge the other.
This may/not work on yours, but on real cold days I leave my Case 580SE bucket high in the air when I park it. Then when cranking I ease the bucket down and it seems to unload the pump so that the engine spins faster to crank. I have read where some say this is bad advice, but try it at least once. I would first simply take both batteries to O'Relli or any place that can load test them. If they test good, then take the alternator off and have it tested... How old are the batteries? I just bet that at least one of them is bad. If you want to fool with it yourself... On automobiles with a drain problem I learned to disconnect the battery in low light looking for any arc when the cable is disconnected. If there is any spark as the connection is separated something is drawing current. (This "draw" can be measured with and inline amp meter.) http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain If you do have 2 batteries in parallel you need to disconnect 1 of them, and then do this test on the other. If they are in series, skip this. Some cars have an analog clock that draws a small amount of current all the time, and my Chrysler van a computer that draws current when it's first connected, but for only 30 seconds or so. The best test is when you first disconnect it after sitting OFF for several minutes. Here is more if you want to watch a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-wxG6U5TuY
Thanks EVERYONE for such great suggestions I really appreciate all the suggestions, comment, replies, etc. I will have each battery checked because one is new and the other is about 4 years old. I will also chesk for sparks at dusk and if i get anything, I will replace the alternator. You gotta love sites like this! Kobb
If you do get sparks don't go and buy an alternator. Unhook the wires to it and check for any sparks again. Most auto parts stores will test the alternator for free. Too many other things can cause a low , slow drain on a battery.
Sorry if I missed in this thread what I'm about to ask.... Do I understand cranks slowly when first starting? and again I'm sorry if this tip was mentioned, if you try hooking up a volt meter to the batter and take a reading of the voltage drop when cranking? do it hot and cold cranking, I believe it should not drop below 11v maybe no lower than 10v ?? I'm not sure on that spec, because if your getting lower than lets say 9volts when cold cranking I would say your looking at an amperage hog sucking too much amps, perhaps a starter? and of course such as what was already mentioned to check wiring that can be loose and/or poorly connected, rotted connections, etc... Also did someone already mention to load test the batteries? because I did read where its charging okay. Another tip to do it when cranking cold watching for voltage drop turn in the head lights and see if the headlights go dim, if so then its a battery and battery connection issue. Also another tip try disconnecting the negative battery cable, then connect a test light between the neg cable thats off the battery, and poke the negative post with the test light, if it lights up then you happen to have a slow draw somewhere, that can be narrowed down by pulling each fuse one at a time until the test light goes off.... Good luck with it...
It may have some sort of bypass. My 83 310A had a wire going to it. I always noticed after starting it you would hear the hydraulics kick in after a few seconds.