Received my results from my Wix oil analysis kit today. The exact wording in the diagnosis area is as follows: DIAGNOSIS Bearing (Lead, Copper & Iron) wear rates are very high. All other engine wear rates normal. Silicon, Sodium, and Potassium levels indicate internal coolant leak. Light concentration of water present. Unable to perform viscosity testing due to excessive water contamination. Action: Check for higher than typical operating temperature. Check for any abnormal noise or vibration. Check for lower than typical oil pressure. Check for source of coolant leak and repair. Flush unit thoroughly. Resample after corrective action to further monitor. I really like this machine and I am willing to put in the work/money to get her fixed up. The motor runs strong and as long as I can rid the oil of coolant I am not to worried about the bearing wear at the moment, if neccessary I will rebuild at a later time. Oil pressure is within spec. That being said, do I automatically assume the coolant is entering the crankcase via the head gasket or can I systematically test and find out exactly how it is entering? Advice on troubleshooting would be appreciated.
Head gasket is probably your best bet.if you can find a engine skematic I would look at it to see if there aren't any other gasket areas that also might be the cause. I don't know your engine but I have replaced two head gaskets on two separate engines with that problem.
The O'rings on the liners could be leaking, or the engine oil cooler could be leaking (any oil in the radiator?). You can take the oil pan off and pressurize the cooling system to see if you can see a drop somewhere. Does it use any antifreeze? any white smoke or sweet smell ever? You can take the exhaust manifold off and see if there are any "too clean" exhaust valves, but that would be if it's leaking coolant into the cylinders also.
I would dump the antifreeze if you want to run this machine and add just water since your in a warmer State . The antifreeze will cause corrosion on all the bearings and it will grenade your engine . I would run it this way for short term until you figure out your problem .Your Diagnosis has proven coolant in the oil . You will loose a crank and camshaft and that is pretty well the complete engine .
Thanks for the tips guys. The engine is a 4039D. I haven't come across any signs of oil in the coolant since I have been wrenching on this machine. I bought a few months back (first machine) and I initially noticed coolant loss and then noticed oil level rising on dipstick. This is a machine for occasional home use (more in summer months). I have also noticed a fairly substantial amount of vapor emitting from the crankcase vent tube that dumps underneath the motor near the bellhousing, didn't smell much like coolant that I can remember though. Previous post I had regarding coolant: A few questions: 1) Because I am seeing no evidence of oil in the coolant would that pretty much eliminate the oil cooler as a suspect? 2) If I drop the pan and pressurize coolant system which suspect component would that eliminate or prove is the culprit? 3) If I remove the exhaust manifold and see an extra clean/shiny exhaust valve then that would support the theory of the head gasket being the suspect?
Oh, yeah, forgot about that one... 1) Yes, pretty much 2) if you see a drop from one of the cylinder liners then at least that liner has to come out, if you see no drops from the liners but can see antifreeze coming from above then the liners are (maybe?) worth leaving for now. 3) that would show the coolant is leaking into one of the cylinders, which isn't really that relevant to anything... I still think it's worth it to pull the oil pan off and pressure test before you replace the head, you'd hate to do that job again when you could have done it all the first time.
Agreed, I'll see if one of the local parts stores has that coolant pressure tester as a loan-a-tool before I end up buying one.
Radiator caps are designed to hold pressure in, but you can blow air back into the radiator with very little effort. If you can get a tube and hose clamp around the overflow tube that will work, or even using a blow gun with rubber tip or some plastic to seal to the tube and air pressure at 15-20 or whatever you feel comfortable with.