I am trying to remove the gland nut of the stabilizer cylinder. I have a Williams hook spanner wrench. I bent it but the nut didn't break loose. I used a hammer and punch went around the the nut no go. I heated the nut slightly didn't break loose. I only have a 20 gallon air compressor so a air hammer probably won't work. I really don't want to use a large pipe wrench. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
This is the thin lock nut that goes on the outside of the gland, right? it doesn't take much to weld up a piece of big pipe with four pieces of key stock inside to grip the notches on the nut, then a large bar to turn it. or heat the nut a little more and keep using the punch, 20 gallon air compressor is plenty, just hit it for a split second at a time and wait till it builds pressure again. if you use a pipe wrench, wrap the rod with sheet aluminum so you don't ding the rod, the nut won't care if it gets budged up with a pipe wrench. Can also try extending the cylinder all the way out, and trying the nut with the gland pushed tight.
Yes it's the outside nut. Not much of a welder. Wish I could find a US made spanner. I will cover the rod with metal. I check the rods on the three that are leaking they all have some nicks . Great idea covering the up. Thank you.
The way those Deere cylinder gland rings are notched they are perfect for an air hammer. Buy the cheapest air chisel from HF. Grind the blade off the chisel. It'll be the cheapest most effective glad wrench you'll ever buy. 20 gallon is more than sufficient.
Does help to use a short 3/8" or bigger hose with no quick couplers, regulators or elbows. direct from the tank.
Sometimes a good wack with a big brass drift and sledge will get things going on some of those deere glands. Also I try a chain wrench before I resort to a pipe wrench.
Put penetrating oil on the nut last night. Today I used a brass drift with a sledge hammer. Worked !!. I sure I will have more questions when the kit comes. Thank you all for the help.