How does one know when the wet brakes are worn thin on a 310D? There are 3 set screws on each side that are there to take up the slack. The set screws still have thread left to keep them tight. Does this mean the breaks are still thick enough for a while? The set screw I am referring to is # 6.
Need advice on wet brakes I've posted already with brakes spelled incorrectly but no one replied. I'll try again. How does one know when the wet brakes are worn thin on a 310D? There are 3 set screws on each side that are there to take up the slack. The set screws still have thread left to keep them tight. Does this mean the breaks are still thick enough for a while? The set screw I am referring to is # 6.
It's been a long time since I've worked on those, memory is a bit vague. But I'm near certain those adjusting screws limit how far the brake piston retracts so you don't have to push pedal all the way to the floor to get the brakes to engage. Seems like you have someone push the pedal until brake is applied and hold it there. Then you adjust screws in until they bottom out on piston. Then back off each screw 1 turn, or something like that, can't remember the spec. As for being able to tell when brakes are worn out. Don't know there is a way, maybe, just don't know. All I can say is when they're gone...you'll know it.
Brake linings on disk are two part. Once through outer layer, inner layer was designed to give extra chatter, when brakes applied, to let operator know that brakes need repaired.
Coalrulz and ATCO, Thanks for your replies. Atco is right about the adjustments. Done that already. You have it all right except you back off 1/3 of a turn. Coalrulz, I bought the machine with over 8000 hrs. The axle housings have been removed so it seems because the 4 large mounting bolts on both sides have been replaced with new ones. There are lots of adjustments left on the set screws. I'm not sure what that means. The brakes shatter just a little sometimes when I come to a complete stop. But just a little and not all the time. I didn't run this thing when it was new so I can't compare to anything. I know you need to press hard to stop but others that have same machines say the same. One operator told me even the newer Deere need lots of pedal pressure to stop.
One thing I can tell you for certain, certain (or wrong) tranny oils will cause brake chatter, especially just before the machine comes to a stop. I know it's terribly expensive, but I've ran across a few Deere machines in the past that the chatter wasn't resolved until the oil was changed to Deere Hy Gard oil. Like I said, dang expensive oil, but dang good oil as well.
One thing is you don't want to use a DOT brake fluid, at least on a case. If I remember right it will eat the seals and then start to make the brakes chatter.
Deon, If you are not getting alot of chatter when brakes are applied then I would guess brake linings are OK! There is no way, I know of, to guage brake lining thickness without removing transaxle and removing axle housings.
New member here, have run 310D for long time. We never wore out the brakes in 12000hrs. they always chatter, the natural of them. One post above, something about not using brake fluid, he doesn't know anything about the 310. There is no place to put brake fluid in that system, it's all controled by hydraulic from the tractor, JD fluid.
dondozer, Thanks for your input. That's a lot of hrs. Do you know if you have needed to adjust the brakes from time to time? Did the 310D hold up well during the 12000 hrs? I've got 8500 hrs on mine. There is a 310C nearby. It has over 13,000 hrs. and the motor still does not burn oil and sounds smooth. The only real problem with that one is the cab is rusted out. I rebuilt my cab last fall. All new steel from 12" above the bottom of the windows down. Painted with black epoxy primer and clear coated over the primer. Replaced window seals, built rain gutters over top of side windows and redesigned the back window so water does not enter the cab anymore. The centre back window now slides down over the bottom one like Deere should have built it. I'm hoping to get many more hrs from the old Deere.
Yeah, I probably shouldn't have commented, just assumed it was like our Case.
Deon, that cab otta be peachy, my 310d shows 11500 hrs. It was bought new and used its whole life at Ohio U. Athens OH. I think it must have been garaged and taken care of by a good shop. To tight not to have been taken care of or a whole lot of stuff has been replaced. Anyway my brakes chatter and it takes some pedal force to stop. Thats why and I have said before here, put her in neutral when stopping. Still may hear some chatter but as long as she stops where ok. I have seen this brake chatter talked about many times on this site. My 310d is a 1992, I have read here that some early 310's had bad brake shoes with kind of a recall or at least replacement shoes that would not chatter. I can't believe on this site nobody ever operated one of these machines when they where new. My operators manuel says there is an inspection window to check wear. I could never find this window on my machine. I have changed transaxle and reverser fluid both with fresh hy-gaurd and still same chatter. I do think with any equipment that if your wallet can afford it change fluid.
lobo, Thanks for the reply. Mine is a 1992 also, 4x4 extendahoe with Wain Roy rear bucket changer. I'm in the process of making hard nylon pads for the extendahoe slides so I can remove the steel sliders and convert it to slide on nylon blocks like the Cat 416. My steel slides are worn out and starting to peal off the boom. This was a terrible design I hope to put behind me. It's going to be a huge job to cut off the internal steel strips but then the refurbishing will be easy. I should take photos and post them once I have some of it done.
Deon, Looking forward to the conversions pictures and details. D
Just like the rest of you guys I have ran into this brake chatter problem with several Deere backhoes as well as several Cat backhoes. And I have seen changing the fluid out with OEM fluid help a few of them and of course some it did not help. A few years ago I found out about an additive that Cat sells for this problem on their machines. It is called Cat axle and brake oil additive part#197-0017. Most of the machines I have used it on it has helped and that includes the Deere machines. So far I have not seen any problems with using it in any of the machines I have used it on. And believe it or not when I heard about this stuff I was talking to a couple of technicians about this chatter problem at a Deere dealership. They said that when they have a machine come in with a customer complaining about brake chatter they change the fluid out and add a bottle of the additive. I am eager to hear if anyone else has heard of this stuff or if anyone is using it.
smittysrepair, Do you know if after adding 197-0017 that I will need to press harder on the pedals to stop? Additionally, do you know how to tell how much wear is left on the brake pads without removing an axle housing?
Deon, On the pressing harder on the brake pedal to stop. I can honestly say that I do not think that it will change. I ran several of the machines that I added the additive to before I added the additive, right after I added it, and several weeks later. And on all of them I could tell no difference in the braking. The only change was the chatter was usually gone. I do have to admit that on some of the machines the brake chatter did not completely disappear. On the brake measurement problem. Sorry but I really do not know. But I will research it this weekend, figure it out, and get back to you on that.
Deon, I am sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you on this! I was hoping I had a service manual for a 310 in my library but I do not. So I had to do the next best thing and that was contact a friend. I know a guy that worked at Deere for several years on the yellow iron side. According to him there is a plug on each side of the diff housing that you can visually inspect the brake disks through. He said it is hard to see them through the hole but it can be done. Let me know if this is true or if it works. I honestly can not verify this so I hope it works. If I do run across one at any of my customers job sites though I will check it out and let you know what I find.
smittysrepair, Thanks so much for your interest to help. I have read somewhere about the inspection hole. I have a service manuel and there is no mention of photo of these holes. I will crawl under the machine and have a look tomorrow. I'll let you know. I assume it would be above the oil level somewhere.
smittysrepair, I had a look under my 310D today. I could not find any plug that is inline with the brake disk. I am assuming that the plug if there is one would let you see the edge of the disk so you can see the thickness. I didn't remove the floor boards. may be under there. Strange there is nothing in the tech book about this. I do appreciate your effort even if no solution is found. All we can do is try.
smittysrepair is right Cat came out with a product p/n 1970017, but I worked at the dealer and before that product came out we used to go to Ford ( car ) dealers and purchase a product called Friction Modifier. You have to tell most parts guys t look it up cause they don't know what you are taalking about cause they might not have ever sold it. It is the stinkiest smelling stuff on the planet and you will need 2 bottles on your 310D. And Deon there is no plug on that diff to inspect lining thickness, there is on the newer ones with ZF diffs but not on older ones
Thanks wsw. Now I know there are no inspection plugs I can stop looking. I'm not going to bother with the smelly stuff. My brakes chatter very little, many times not at all so I'm fine there.