My 1992 310D, ser# 782511 now has the oil pressure light and the stop sign and alarm on when the ignition key is off. With engine running all looks normal and warning is off. If I disconnect the battery and reconnect it the light and warnings are off. As soon as I turn the key to run and back off the warning is there again. I looked through the electrical manual and can't find any relays that tie into that circuit so I am wandering if the logic module can cause this. What do you guys think?
I'm looking at a "C" manual so I might be on the wrong page... I can't make much logic of it at the moment, but it doesn't look like the logic module gets power when the key is off? The first place I'd look is the key switch, find the diagram which shows the how the terminals switch in each position and verify that the key switch is working correctly in off, and bulb check/start. Also the switched ground terminal is important to the logic module. If the key switch isn't providing power in off, then check the terminals at the logic module and find out where the power is coming from? No idea if the module could somehow cause this, but the fact that it shuts off when the battery is disconnected, and comes on after run (it should have to turn to bulbcheck/start to turn on the module right?) sounds like the module is doing it's job, just is getting the wrong signal from the key.
Delmer, Thanks so much for the reply and your help. I have the 310D Tech Manual 1496 in PDF format. It's 12.29 MB. How can I send it to you so you have the real thing? I tried to upload it by clicking the Manage Attachment button but only seems to load up to about 20 percent and stop. What your saying makes some sense to me. I can start by checking all the connection in the module and switch area and test the switch function. If the ignition switch did actually not turn everything off, one would think there would be additional warning lights on. I am fortunate that I have an in-cab battery cutoff switch. I installed it 3 years ago after seeing photos of some older backhoes with burnt cabs. I realize that short circuits can occur in these older machines.
I have the paper 1446 which goes to my (different "C") backhoe. I thought the logic module might be similar but I didn't check jdparts to see if the number is the same. In my manual there is a nice little chart of the connections that the switch makes in different positions, that's where I'd start, and then use the wiring diagram to figure out what's supposed to have power when.
Hello Deon...I'm having the same issue on my 310C...were you able to resolve the issue? just wondering where to start on this problem and got excited when I saw your post.
I'll stick by my advice in post #2. Even though I'm looking at a different manual, JDparts says that there is a serial number break in the C's but the replacement for the first part number is the second part number (this applies for at least 310-610). The D's have a serial number break also but it's the same part number as the later C for both of the D's. So the long and short is we're talking about the same part number, MOST likely it's wired very similarly across Deere backhoes.
Yes, shortly after posting this, I noticed my tack would show erratic readings and the battery/charge light would sometimes come on. I replaced the alternator and all symptoms were gone. Hopefully it's also your problem to cause its was an easy fix. Find the Deere part number and give it to a few of your auto parts stores. Someone should be able to find you a match designed for heavy equipment and not for a car. I got mine from CarQuest for about $160.00 and it's guaranteed for life.
I should also mention again that I have installed a battery cutoff switch on the negative post. I really believe it can be a huge asset on these older machines. I think it is also possible that a faulty alternator can drain your battery while the machine is off and unatended and maybe cause an electical fire. I sleep much better with that switch off.
Thanks Dean and Delmer.....funny thing about the alternator on my 310C...it stopped charging the battery in Dec and shortly after that I noticed the problem with the oil pressure/ stop light when I shut it down. I told myself I would address the alternator in the spring and was just getting around to it.....it didn't cross my mind that the two would be associated.....I hope this works but I feel better already.
Alternator backfeeding the ignition terminal... ??? that could make sense. If you have the original alternator, some time, and can find an auto electric shop (or whatever you call an alternator repairman) then have it rebuilt locally rather than buying a cheapo new/rebuilt.