Local dealership no help. Injector pump replaced, filters changed fuel tank drained and flushed. (Twice and dealership recommendation. The tractor will operate great for about 45min then loose power and die. will not restart. let it sit for 6-12 hrs and it will start back up and run great for another 45min. then die. At wits end. Any subjections thanks.
Welcome to HEF Dave . Check the fuel tank vent first. Check fuel return lines that they are not restricted or pinched. Has anyone checked fuel pressure? Lift pump? Fittings going into or out of the filter head or lift pump (those areas like to collect debris)?
Read my mind. I got $5 on the tank venting.
Just loosen the fuel tank cap & see what that does, after running it for about 30 minutes.. IF u hear a rush of air when u loosen it, the cap vent is clogged..{small hole in cap}
If it's not the fuel cap, has anybody checked that the injection pump is getting power when it won't restart after dying?
Does it have the electronically controlled injection pump? I've seen corrosion and or loose connections on the pins of the ECU (mounted on the block, below the inj pump) it can cause all kinds of head scratching. (No start, hard start, intermittently shutting down).
Thank you for the quick answers from everyone. checked the vent on the cap and its plugged solid. blew on it and nothing. Hope this solved 3 yrs of head acks. Will try it out as soon as I can. Let you know how it works out.
The cap was plugged, but that did not solve the problem. Big problem is on tech that came out to check the tractor with the computer said that the injection pump was good (the one that was replaced about a year ago but never ran past and Hr.) but didn't know what was still causing the problem. bad. Another tech came out and said the injection pump is bad. This happened with in a week and no parts were ever changed. No confidence in local JD service center.
So is this an electronicaly controlled injection pump? you're at the mercy of the gremlins then You might find some info on what the pump needs to run, and what the ECM needs to run and send to the pump to run. Then you can check those voltages after it runs for an hour and dies. The dealer is not going to be able to diagnose an intermittent problem unless he's willing to stick around until it happens. Wouldn't hurt to put a fuel pressure gauge in there too, just in case it's a simple fuel supply issue.
Definitely sound advice. I always check fuel pressure on any engine operation issue first to eliminate the simple stuff. Also check the connections at the injection pump as well as the two wires from the pump to the ECU. All areas I have seen issues with. If fuel pressure is good and knowing you have a DE10 pump, what is the part number listed on the side if the ECU (if you can still read it)? Those machines had a lot of ECU issues and they did not throw a code. Look at the ECU real close. Sometimes you can see the side bulging out a little or the casing cover slightly dislodged from the ECU. A sure sign of an ECU issue. Another thing to try is when it is running put some pressure on the side of the ECU like you are trying to squeeze it. If the engine speed changes you have an ECU problem.
ENG CNTRL l12 / 12V p/n RG518176 S/N 103XXX ECU box does not look swollen. Learning about diesels as I go, this is a friends machine, he's the operator getting up in age and helping him out.
Yup I just had this. One of the electric connections was slightly loose on the solenoid on the injector pump and mine had same issues. Ran great for an hour or two and then sputtered out and died. Would restart after cooled down for a while. I tried about everything and that’s what it ended up being. Knock on wood I’m running good for nearly a month now.
Did you check the electrical connections at the pump and the ECU? Check the wires that go from pump to ECU? Check fuel pressure. Put pressure on the side of the ECU while running? Do any codes show in the monitor when it dies? That ECU part # is actually RE518176 and that was a problem child. I'm not suggesting replacing it yet because I'm not convinced it is the problem until we rule out all the other stuff.
Ok no change when pushing on the ECU. wiring and connectors at ECU and Injection pump are good and cleaned. No code are shown. Could not check the fuel pressure done have equipment.
You said it looses power then dies, or does it shut down like you turn the key off? Still need to know fuel pressure when engine is running and when it dies. Fuel pressure testing equipment for that machine would be relatively inexpensive. Get a vacuum gauge from an auto parts store (they also read pressure to about 15 psi) and some fittings from a hydraulic shop to connect to the filter head (see #5 in the illustration for location). That engine should be around 3-5 psi. The video in post #2 of the HEF forum below shows a 310E fuel pressure test. HeavyEquipmentForums
According to my DE pump specs, the fuel pressure should/needs to be, 5.5psi at full load rpms. Fuel inlet pressure is> VERY IMPORTANT in that system.. SO CHECK IT..
ok, looks like fuel pressure is bad, 3psi at start, drops to 2psi, rev up motor will only go up to 2.5 psi. turn off jumps up to 5psi and drops. As for shutting down. looses power, in my opinion sounds like its starving for fuel, if you try to rev it at all it just dies.