I am new to this forum, I have a JD310SE that does not start. Battery and starter very strong. Changed fuel filter, drained fuel tank , replenish with fresh diesel, pump priming lever with filter valve open, pumps is strong, fill a cup in a few strokes, close the drain valve, can feel pressure build, after a few strokes, the lever becomes soft. Can ear fuel going back in the fuel tank. Cracked 3 out of 4 lines on the stanadyne pump outlet. Does not see any fuel coming out from any of the 3 cracked fittings. Cranked engine 5 times for 30 seconds each, still no fuel coming out of the injector pump, but ear a lot of fuel going back to the fuel tank. Any suggestions?
Check the return line for blockage. Just a wild guess.
If you've cracked fuel lines at injection pump and have no fuel coming from ports, it sounds like shut down solenoid isn't opening to allow fuel through injection pump. I'd be checking shut down solenoid for sure.
That does not surprise me now but where is that solenoid located, Since I have only the operator's manual, the solenoids are not described. There are a few solenoids close to the fuses but which is which? Thanks
Well, that's where I'm banging my head. I've been looking over the Deere online parts pages and they did a poor job of detailing the injection pump on the 310SE, so I'm unable to post a diagram that would be of help. Given this lack of resource, I don't think that machine has an electronic governor injection pump with a pile of wires going to it, can't say this for certain, but don't think so. If this is correct, there will only be a few wires going to the injection pump and they should be going to the shut down solenoid of pump. Could be a single (power) wire, could be two wires (power and ground). Check for voltage and good ground (if two wire) at the solenoid. If power and ground is good, and while working in a quiet location, be near solenoid and have a helper turn on ignition switch. If solenoid is operating you should hear a "click" when ignition is turned on. If no click, likely a problem with solenoid.
I have ask an assistant and he can hear a click when the ignition switch is turned on. For the wire around the Stanadyne pump, there is one wire going to a connector on the engine, probably engine temperature. There is a ground on the pump itself and another wire. I guess I can check if any voltage on that wire with and without the ignition on. I will phone the local John Deere dealer, he may be of help. The price of their book is prohibitive, If under $100, I would buy but they want $300. Regards
the solenoid valve is on the injection pump
one wire goes to the timming advance solenoid and one goes to the fuel shutoff solenoid on the pump.. probly a blown fuse cause the timming advance solenoid is bad to short out on a johndeere engine
There is a technical manual available on ebay for $150.00 plus shipping. It appears to be a in excellent condition. I don't think you will find one any cheaper. http://www.ebay.com/itm/John-Deere-...39274?pt=BI_Books_Manuals&hash=item53eebe5f8a
Amtrak, I do not see any solenoid on the Stanadyne Injection pump, there is a fitting on top, probably the return line, is there a check valve in there? Ordered a technical manual today, hope this will be described. regards Richard
I am kinda new to TLB's and know nothing of your model of deere, but I did notice no one has asked the obvious question yet. Did you purge the air out of your injection pump after you replaced the fuel filter? Just cause you primed the low pressure side doesn't mean there is no air in the high pressure side. If not, you will have to find the purge procedure for that model pump. Hope this helps!
I am still puzzled by this problem, I cannot find this fuel solenoid! There a 2 wires near the Stanadyne pump, I is a ground wire on top of this pump and the other is the wire to the engine oil pressure as seen in my manual. My manual shows a solenoid near this high pressure pump, how could this disappear or the previous owner modified it.
To confirm that this engine has a fuel solenoid...........did it or does it normally shut off when you turn the key off or do it shut off by pulling a lever or throttle control ? If it shuts off on the key than it has a sol on or in the pump. Most pumps bleed themselves on the pressure side by cracking the lines at the injectors. I can't say about this one.
Viewing the illustration of the injection pump at the parts pages, that looks like a Stanadyne injection pump. If it is, you won't find an external fuel solenoid, the solenoid is inside the top cover of the injection pump. I lifted this pic of a Stanadyne from the internet. May not be an exact match to your pump, but should be similar. You should find two terminals with nuts on them on top of the top cover. The one where arrow points is 12V from ignition switch, the opposite terminal (inside red circle) is the ground terminal for fuel solenoid, should have a metal strap going from terminal to a cover screw on injection pump to ground solenoid.
Thanks for your help, please find a photo of my Stanadyne DB4 pump. There is only a red wire that is grounded. There is another terminal that obviously was not connected, it still has yellow paint on it. If there was a loose wire lying around, I would understand and plug it back but nothing I can find.
I'm getting really confused by this machine. Has it ever ran since you've been around it? And one thing that really baffles me is you mentioned a red wire that is grounded. In all my years of working on a lot of brands and models of machines I have never seen a red colored wire that is either ground or grounded. If you have a Stanadyne pump with two terminals on top of it, one of those terminals should have a 12V positive wire from ignition switch connected to it, the other terminal should be grounded to operate the internal fuel shutoff solenoid coil.
Hi Willie, This machine has been working perfectly for the past 3 years, only this summer suddenly I have problems starting then it would turn but not start. It is indeed strange to have a red wire grounded unless there is an insulator that I do not see, From what you tell me, this should rather be a 12Volts terminal hooked with the ignition switch so that there is 12V only when operating and then shutting down when turning to off that ignition switch. There are indeed 2 places on top of the Stanadyne pump but there is only this red wire connected. I will take my multimeter tomorrow and check for continuity between ground and this terminal. Once I determine if this is ground or 12Volts, I can see how to proceed. At this point, I believe it should be a 12V terminal but have a broken wire or whatever. I could manually apply 12Volts to that terminal and should then ear a solenoid clicking? Is the solenoid inside the pump? I tried to send the photo but it is too big, this site does not accept it. Regards Richard
Ok, we're beginning to make progress. Again, I have no clue what a 310SE has for an injection pump, and the Deere parts pages aren't much help. A pic of what you are working with would help us a bunch. But given the lack of, we just have to sort through the info offered. That little tidbit of info helps a lot. I assume you mean "there are indeed 2 terminals..." Again, without a pic of your unit, it's really hard for us to comment with certainty. However, again, as I stated previously, it would be unusual at the very least for a "red" wire to be either a ground or be grounded. You state (again, I assume) there is two terminals on top of the top cover. Does one of those terminals have a ground strap connecting the terminal to a machine screw that secures the top cover? As for pic size, if you use Windows operating system, open the pic with Microsoft Paint. You can resize pic using Paint program, save the "re-sized" pic, 640 x 480, and post it here.
your 310 se will have a stanadyne db2 injection pump. the wire going to it is power to the solenoid. it grounds itself through the frame of the pump via that second stud you mentioned it should look a little something like that^
Please find the picture
I had confirmation today from a John Deere dealer that the solenoid is located inside this Stanadyne DB4 pump. They do not want to sell the solenoid only and want $1400 for this. I need to find the right solenoid. Thanks for your help.
Slow down there big fella, have you confirmed the solenoid coil is bad? You stated previously that the red wire is "ground". Now that you've posted a pic I can say with certainty that red wire should have 12V positive when key is on. If you look at the opposite terminal it has the ground strap that I mentioned, directly under the red wire as it passes over that terminal in pic you posted.
I agree with willie . temporally splice into the red wire or disconnect from pump and run a wire directly from battery or know 12V source to that terminal on pump . That may tell you if sol is bad . I certainly wouldn't throw anything in the garbage yet .
That's what I would do Cat_man320, disconnect the red wire from the terminal, connect a jumper wire from that terminal to Bat terminal on alternator, and see if it fires off. If it does, chase down problem with red wire.
I agree with you guys. I will try to find time to do this tomorrow, I can first see if I do get 12V at the red wire turning the ignition switch. Also the external battery test should confirm if the solenoid is activated or not when applying a 12Volts. Actually, it may be very easy to test the solenoid, I can just apply 12Volts on the solenoid and ear the click if it works. What do you think? Richard
SEEN IT A MILLION X.. If the machine has a "low oil" or over heat" shut down on it it will override the soleniod..YOU"LL HEAR a click when you turn the key and 'THINK ITS WORKING" but it will shut off WHILE CRANKING!! REMOVE the top cover and crank the engine..I KNOW it has the 5 sided tamper screws but the bit can be bought from your local tool man or harbor freight. Another thing is the metering valve is stuck in the shut-off position which you will find after you remove the top cover.. 1 other IMPORTANT THING IS you have to grab the metering valve and move it.. to shut it down..seeing there is NO SOLENIOD to do it for you..Good luck..TPG
Was able to take my multimeter this morning and yes there is 12 Volts on the red terminal upon turning the ignition switch. So the problem is indeed with the solenoid hidden inside the Stanadyne DB4 pump. I do not feel like paying JDeere $1400 for a new one, I will find this solenoid elsewhere and change it. Richard
No guarantee the sol is gone yet . You can have 12V there but not enough amperage to induce the sol . do like we said, take a jumper directly form battery to terminal and see if it reacts . you could have a weak relay or the red wire could be down to one strand of copper giving you 12v but no amperage or very little .
Did you also check for 12 volts while cranking?
Solenoid P# is 26214..stanadyne ..can be purchased at any fuel shop across the counter.[if needed] I have plenty of used ones if you need it..but I'll bet once you get the cover off, you'll find the real problem. Just PM/email me your address..
It was slightly lower but I need to recharge battery a bit, after so many crankings.