Hello Folks, I am doing some pro bono work on a Bible schools piece of equipment that was inadvertently exposed to the elements, for a couple years. (The exhaust points straight up with no rain cap). While removing the exhaust from the turbo, water poured out. I've attempted to heat the internal of the engine with a heat gun through the exhaust and intake as well as squirting large amounts of WD40 into it. Zero movement of the crankshaft with the starter. I was able to turn the crankshaft back about 180* and then forward again the same amount and then it comes up against a hard stop. I figured that there must be at least one cylinder that has a ring of rust built up in it, not allowing the piston to go past. I attempted to remove the head to clean out the top of the affected cylinder as well as the exposed portions of the valves, but I was unsuccessful. It appears that something is still holding it attached to the block near the front of the engine (aft side of the skid steer). There is a remote mounted oil filter bracket that appears to be attached to the head and the block. The heads of the bolts are sandwiched between the oil filter bracket and the block. Looks like a tickle technique to get those out??? I would greatly appreciate any and all suggestions as well as the source for an overhaul/maintenance manual for this JD 4024TT001 engine. The equipment is a pneumatic tire John Deere 317, PIN T00317A121004, year unknown but possibly 2005. Thank you much. Pete
What would happen if you removed the injector from that cylinder and filled it with penetrating oil for a few days, come back and see if it rotates any further???
If you had water run out of the exhaust and the turbo looks like that it would be reasonable to assume that the engine may be hydrolocked. I would do as suggested above and pull the injectors if possible.
I third that thought.. remove injectors and spray it down with penetrating oil.. In the meantime see what u can do with the turbo.
You may want to try using a heavy duty rust release penetrating oil for this project. WD-40 does make a WD-40 Specialist Penetrant spray that specifically targets rusted components. The regular WD-40 Multi-Use Product may not be powerful enough for this job. Everyone seems to have their own favorite penetrating oil that works for them. Other popular rust release penetrating oils are Kroil, Liquid Wrench, Seafoam, PB Blaster, CRC ... to name a few. My personal favorite is Lloyds Moovit ... but I believe it is only sold in Canada. Pity.
Thank you all for your responses...I believe that was my original intent, (to remove the injectors and fill with penetrant), but once the valve cover was off, I got a little too carried away. I had envisioned getting the head off, cleaning the cylinder(s) and perhaps the valves/seats, bleeding down the lifters, installing the head with a new gasket, checking/adjusting the valves, re-connecting everything, drain, flush and service the engine oil and fuel tank, as well as replacing the oil & fuel filters...I was able to get the turbo cleaned up and spinning free. My other challenge with this project is that this piece of equipment is about 450 moles away and I can only get to it working around my regular job and home commitments. I did reach out to a JD dealer/service center for assistance...I think I would have had better results had I tried to sell them Girl Scout Cookies....bottom line, transporting the JD 317, or having their mechanics come out to the location is not in the budget. Thanks again for your suggestions. Pete
Jd probably isn’t going to be much help, other than selling u an engine.. The best penetrating oil I’ve ever used is called: KNOCKER LOOSE.. I haven’t found ANYTHING that it won’t free up.. I once beat on a broken part for the better part of an hour.. got out the torch and heated it and beat some more..FINALLY sprayed it down and closed up for the day.. Came in the next day and grabbed a chisel and hit it once and it moved.!! AFTER THAT I unscrewed it with my fingers.!! I never read the ingredients and don’t know how it works, but it dam sure does..
Can't quite tell in the picture. Did you remove the alternator bracket?
Good Morning. I sincerely appreciate your responses. I will be getting some Knocker Loose asap. Yes, I did remove the alternator bracket. It was attached where you can see in this picture the bolt that was put back into the head,(in hopes of not loosing it and for easier re-install). But since you asked about it, and after looking at this picture, and please pardon my extreme ignorance, but is it possible that the timing gear cover has to be removed to get the head off? While working on the engine, it appeared as thou the attachment was below the split line of the head and block. Also, and most importantly, is there any recommendation for where to get an overhaul/repair manual for this engine (4024TT001)? While looking online, there seems to be a discrepancy in the manual number for this engine, (CTM301 vs. CTM101019). I'm not concerned about spending the money, I would just prefer to get the correct one, the first time... Thanks again for your assistance. Pete
Yes front cover needs to be removed to pull the head. Fun part is the oil pan needs to be dropped to remove the front cover since the oil pump is in the cover and the pickup needs to be unbolted from the block. Pull the engine if possible. You are taking on a project I wouldn't wish upon anyone. I deal with these engines all the time and they are finicky just with old fuel, let alone what you're diving into. Shoot me a message with your email and I'll shoot you the tech manual.
MarshallPowerGen, thank you for your response. I believed I sent you a message, but I'm not quite sure if I sent it correctly... Anyhow, as I remember, the clearance between the bottom of the oil pan and the inside bottom of the machine is already very tight...I do have access to a JD 444H Wheel Loader, so getting the engine out is a possibility. I guess to say that I've opened up a can of worms is an understatement...however, since this is at a Bible college, what a better place to be a doer of the word, "...I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me..." Phil.4:13 I will post here of my progress. Thanks again. Pete
Actually, no, the timing gear cover does not need to be removed. it is only a rubber seal between the timing gear cover and the cylinder head with no hardware. CTM301 is the proper manual for that unit and can be purchased here . Check your messages. Here is a view of the front of the block with no timing cover. As you can see, there is no harware holes in the head.
Well, I stand corrected and sorry about that. Everyone I've been involved with had the timing cover resealed or replaced at the same time since we were already in there.
Good Evening Gents. Thank you for the info, and relief...MarshallPowerGen had me scratching my head pretty good last night...I have the CTM301 manual on order. I did find a John Deere training video on the 2.4L and 3.0L Unit Injection Pump Technical Clocking Procedure, It references the CTM301. After viewing the training video, I am hoping that I could leave the injection units attached to the head when I pull it?...but I'm guessing once they leave contact with the cam, they should be re-clocked? I definitely don't want to go to all of this trouble and the equipment not run strong and reliable. Thanks again, and I'll keep posting my progress...
Hmmm, I thought that I was only posting the link to the video, not the actual video...
The unit pumps are bolted to the block, not the head. So you can leave the unit pumps in place. You will only have to remove the injectors. Just make sure to keep the same injector with its mating pump. And cover the fuel system openings to keep debris out. Also, when reassembling, the lifters for the valves will have to be fully collapsed. Otherwise, you WILL bend pushrods at first start up. CTM301 explains how to do that. There is a special tool for that, but you can improvise. Yep
Good Morning mg2361, MarshallPowerGen, & others, do you have a recommendation for a source of the consumable parts, i.e. seals, gaskets, hardware? Are there good quality after market suppliers or should I stick with local John Deere dealers/RDO's
Dealer.
There are not too many gaskets used on that model engine but lots of sealant. Pick up a couple of tubes of Deere part # PM710XX280 .
Actually, I would definitely avoid using that sealant. Too many issues. In locations that do not use a gasket on that engine, I highly recommend and have had great success with Loctite 37512. Click here to view.
Good to know, thanks @mg2361 .
Good Morning Gents, Thank you for your suggestions. I would assume with any sealant application, more is not always better? And, like in the picture posted on Monday, (12/2/24) by mg2361, the preparation of the mating surfaces need to be absolutely clean and perhaps wiped down with alcohol or some other dry cleaner just before applying the sealant?
You definitely need the sealant to cover the surface but you don't want half a pound of it oozing out at every seam. Yes 100%, get the mating surfaces as clean as possible, any oil/grease/contamination will reduce the effectiveness of the sealant. From my experience just hitting the surface with cleaner and a blow gun is far from good enough. Wipe it down with a clean, lint-free rag until you no longer see residue on the rag after a wipe. Could take a few tries to get it all off.
Take a close look at the oil pickup on this 4024 engine. This is what can happen if you use too much sealant. The sealant stuck in this pickup is the PM710XX280 that I do not recommend you use.