Picks up a. 322 with 4024T engine. I believe it's an 07'. Had been in water and they have had it running since but hasn't ran in 6 months or more. They couldn't figure out anything. So far I've found broken wire going to relays and wire going in fuse panel was pushed out. They replaced the starter but I think it was the wiring issue and they were throwing parts at it. It's a low hr unit (1400) and looks really good and not abused. I know have power and it turns over etc. it still has radiator out and many items need to be put back on. Before I replace everything I wanted to make it run. I pumped primer pump on top of fuel filter and it's tight now. How do I bleed the fuel system in this engine. It turns over and smokes a little but has busted off yet. Thanks in advance.
Several different fuel systems were used on that engine.. Is there an injection pump w/ lines leading to injectors?? or is everything under the valve cover??
Under valve cover that I can tell. There's what looks to be a fuel pump on side of engine with one steel line coming out the top and there's one steel line going into the back side of the valve cover
Could be new enough to have a coolant level sensor? Radiator out it may never fire, just a thought.
There is a plug that plugs into the overflow tank. That's a thought. Guess ill clean it up and put it back together. Didn't want to do that until it was running but maybe I should. There's not that much to put back on actually. Thanks
The fuel system is mechanical. BUT it runs w/ an electric shut off so if you want to, you can jump it straight off the battery.. You said you have smoke.. so fuel supply probably isn't the problem either?? BUT the lift pumps are junk too.. they leak fuel into the crank case.. The pumps and injectors are junk.. LOTS of problems w/ them.. made by Stanadyne,, The push rods in that engine are a BIG problem also.. bend like spaghetti, 20 bucks says the P rods are bent.. Gonna have to remove the valve cover.. There is an access plug to tell if the shut off solenoid is working or just take it off.. Don't try to take the pumps out.. the fuel rack has to be pinned 1st.. the pumps have teeth on them and a fuel rack that they sit in.. If you don't mind the oil getting alittle diluted, remove the lines from the pumps and spin it over and see if they squirt fuel.. You could put a rag on top of the pumps and lay the valve cover over the rags.. if its pumping fuel, the rags will be wet in each spot.. Hope this helps..
Ok I'll check it out. If the push rods are bent can I see that easily and if they're bent are they hard to replace. I say it has smoke but actually very little smoke. I know the shut off is getting power. I can hear something clicking when the key comes on as well. U say take lines loose on pumps is that all under valve cover. Thanks
What I did was take the rocker shaft off in a complete assembly.. take the bolts out and just lift it off.. back on the same way.. Then you can pull the rods out.. they'll be bent into an "S".. Check the pumps 1st.. yes they are under the valve cover..
Thanks for the info. I'll look at it this morning. It looks like a steel fuel line going into the back of the head. Is that correct if so I don't have fuel to that point. Thanks again for the help.
Not sure my engine is as you described. I don't see a rail or Lines to open. Only injector direct lines. Can u call Me 321-228-6684 thanks
Is that the glow plug electrical buss bar, and is it shorted to that bolt on the left, or is it just the picture angle?
Yes that's the glow plug Assy. I'll have to check it again but I don't think it's shorted out. I just sat the cover back on for now.
Dam, I got you all screwed up.. lol I'v been gone toooo long.. The rockers are obviously singles.. You could just spin the free ones in their bores to tell if they are bent.. You gotta have fuel TO the pumps inorder for them to pump fuel.. check the shut off solenoid..
322 Where are these pumps. I didn't tn see anything that looks like a pump under valve cover. This is what I was saying looks like a pump. What is this. There's a primer pump on top of the filter. Also I removed the cover on fuel shut off and it is operating on
That picture is the boost aneroid.. holds the fuel back until boost comes up.. the injectors and pumps are under the valve cover.. You see that steel line going under the rocker?? 1 is the injector and 1 is the pump.. The pump has the removable line.. and the steel line is made into the injector.. Just google it.. jd 322 4024T fuel system.. theres a diagram of pumps. injectors and lift pump..
Ok now I get it. I thought the removable end was the injector. So it has 4 individual pumps. I tried loosening one of them and it was super tight. I didn't want to break it. So just loosen it like it was on top of an external injection pump to bleed it On a normal pump. If the pushrods turn at all under the rocker arms does that mean they're bent. When I looked at it earlier one or two may have had a very slight amount of play but not much at all. Also should I check all four pumps. Thanks again. Normally if you run thIs unit out of fuel would you have to remove the valve cover and bleed these out if so what a PIA.
Southernman , unfortunately I very familiar with this engine . The fuel system is mechanical and no different than a two stroke Detroit or 31 series cat set up except for the placement of the components. If you ever remove any of the rocker arms you MUST remove the lifters and bleed them down and replace the rockers when the cam is low point for each cylinder. The injectors pumps must be synchronized from the back to front. This done with a special tool and by rotating the pump, so until you are ready to synchronize the injectors DO NOT loosen the pump hold down clamps. If you decide to try and bleed at the injector lines be extremely careful that the pump does not rotate as it could damage the rack if the a pump rotates individually. The trick to bleeding it is patience and more patience so as not over heat the starter. After rolling the engine and resting the starter about 15 times a little shot of juice will get it going. Keep pumping the hand pump between each attempt to start . The engine should start with the rack in fuel position . There is a small cover held on by one bolt just below the shut off solenoid where you can access the rack , manually pulling the shut off lever back the rack should push out toward the radiator and you should be able to push the rack in and it return on its own with almost no resistance. If not you have pump, rack issues. I have some pictures on my phone of the tool to synchronize the injectors and measure the rack travel I will try to post.
This is what the jd tool looks like.. This is the one I made using a dial indicator for timing a Bosch VE pump.
Thanks for the info. I don't want to get into anything like that. If it comes to that I'll have someone do it. I'll check to see how the rack moves tomorrow and go from there. I really didn't want to loosen the pump lines I already tried on two and they were really tight and hard to get to. I was afraid I was going to damage something. The pushrods hopefully are good
Southern, you do not want to mess w/ the pumps & injectors.. Other than seeing if the pump pumps fuel.. WAY TO MANY THINGS CAN GO WRONG if your not familiar w/ these engines..
Ok I looked again this morning and I have 1pushrod bent for sure. Should I replace them all or just the one. What is the procedpfor bleeding down the lifters. Thanks for any help
I'v seen it done 3 ways.. replace 1, replace all and even seen 1 guy put the rod in a vise and straighten it and put it back in.!!! I think Partsandservice is gonna be the expert on this thread, seeing he has the book.. maybe just PM him or send an email.. I know this site doesn't alert me when someone posts something new or sends me a PM.. I have to log onto the site and THEN I get a pop-up.. So, you might wanna try both and see which one gets answered faster.. I know email is faster for me..
I tried email no answer. I ordered a set Of 8 just to be sure.
PM sent.
Got it running still working on putting back together. Tried moving it and lifting/tilting bucket. It just dead heads and shuts down. I unlocked parking brakes but not sure it's unlocking. I'm not familiar with this machine. It has foot pedals for lift/tilt and sticks for drive. On top of sticks there's handles that tilt and in/out not sure what they do. I broke one of the cables and already replaced it. Neither handle moves the valve they're hooked to very much st all. Either they're not supposed to or the valve is stuck. Even with the new cable on one side it didn't change the movement much if any. Anyone familiar with this unit. Thanks
Sorry, no help here.. Didn't you say it went swimmin'?? check to see if you have any hydro fluid. or movement.. break a line loose..
Well figured it out. Everything was Locked because E Brake was Not releasing. I had seat belt buckled together. It has to be culled to operate. Can't just leave it permanently hooked up. Still no foot controls. They probably work just can't figure out how to switch from handle to foot control.