New to the forum, looking for some help with my new purchase. The LH steering is gone, believe its just the brake band replaced based on the trouble shooting outlined in the service manual. I pulled the cover thinking I could replace the brake band from the access panel, no luck must be an earlier model. Looks like I will need to split the track and pull the sproket and bull gear to access. Need some help and advise. 1) Any tips on splitting the track ? Or links to previous posts or special tools that will help pull the master pin would be much appreciated. 2) The OEM brake band is over $1000 . On ebay I have seen the same part for $250. Anyone use or know whether it is worth the risk ? This dozer won't see a ton of use so I'm leaning towards the cheaper part but would like an opinion. 3) Any key things I should be concerned about taking on this job - level of difficulty. Really appreciate any help anyone could offer.
Have a 350b, think similar to yours except yours are probably wet. First try tightening brake band or at least look in the access hole to check everthing is moving ok and adjust accordingly. Some like to put the master on the front idler and some put master on sprocket. Changed the right band on mine at the camp a couple of years ago with not many tools, had to borrow a torch to cut weld on track joint pin, used three point boom to pull final. Installed a rebuilt band from louisiana weld and press,(around 200) still works. Good luck
Yah 350C is the wet clutch. Already tried adjusting the band. Removed the top cover and got another half turn out of the adjuster nut, thought I could get the season out of it but no luck. Not sure I understand your statement - cut weld on track joint ? I was thinking of making a pin and using a hydraulic press leveraging off of the other track to push the pin out (off of the front idler). If there is an easier way or suggestions I sure would appreciate it.
Master pin was welded together. Think I would rather weld a nut to the pin and porta power out, may need heat to help along. Your master pin might have snap rings, how do you know you located the master pin?
According to the service manual it suppose to have snap rings. The pin has a grove around the outside and an indent in the center, assuming this is the master pin as it is different from the rest. I can't see any snap rings so if there is a trick to accessing and removing the snap ring I would really appreciate some help on how to remove it.
I was a able to get the master pin out, wasn't to bad. Didn't have a snap ring. Next step is getting the housing off, I searched some forums and there was a technique to pull the drive shaft through the access cap without removing the housing. If this can be done it would save a lot of time. Not sure if anyone could confirm if this will work ? Appreciate any feedback, tips in getting the housing off as I will attempt that per the manual.
You will need to pull final drive. Top shaft will not come out through 3 bolt cover anyway. Once final is off you'll be able to get at band to replace. I have a new genuine deere band here I'd sell if you're interested. I I'd be happy to assist you with any technical info you may need as well. Contact me directly for more info. Steve. www.pdmechanical.com
Quick update. I have the track split and the final drive removed. From the service manual it sounds like the upper drive shaft was to seperate from the drive however it stayed with the drive. So I replaced the band, the band actually broke at the welded catch tab so it explains why the adjuster was all the way down. I'm a little apprehensive about taking the clutches apart, just another variable that I can screw up so I'll leave as is. Machine is in good shape, not abused so I'm not concerned. So putting the drive back on should I pull the drive shaft and install it to the clutch side or is it okay to install along with the drive gear ? Any other tid bits of information to pass along as I'm putting it back together would be appreciated.