My alternator isn't charging the battery. It has 2 wires that comes out of the factory and crimped together in a eye terminal and bolted to the bolt on the back of the alternator. The 1 and 2 spade terminal are closed with a factory rubber cap. No ground wire either. I removed the alternator and took it to a local big chain auto parts store. They will not test it with out a part number and they said they can't look up JD parts. I went to another part store. They pulled up a 1980 chevy camaro and used that part number. Tried to test it but computer keep saying possibly bad ground. Any idea what alternator to used. What excites the alternator if the number 1 spade terminal don't have current to it ? Thank you.
Is your alternator green, yellow, or aluminum? Deere used different brands of alternators at different times, so you'd have to look up the serial number breaks, and guess if it's been changed. Or post a pic of the back of the alternator. If it has factory caps on 1 and 2, it it a delco? then it could likely be a one wire alternator, and not need to have an ignition wire to excite, you might need to rev the engine as high as it will go, and if that doesn't work, try the ground tab on the back to see if it will charge. Hard to believe they wouldn't recognize a delco one wire alternator, but who knows anymore.
Here is a pic of it. One wire and the 1 and 2 in capped. Does this help?
Yep you have a one wire delco alternator every parts store should have one but who knows nowdays not a john deere part by the way No need to test it make sure there is 12v at the alternator and that that ground works then replace One example https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...VaGxvBB3NSAyqEAQYAyABEgLzCvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
There's the possibility that it does not spin fast enough to self excit. May need to try pulling off the rubber cap and jump power to the number 2 terminal and see if it goes. I've never ran across a jd of that vintage with a 1 wire that's factory.
The kids that work at parts stores no nothing about cars. If you can't provide them with what they need to use their online catalogue forget getting anything at one. The days of the parts guy knowing what he is looking at are over. The corrosion on the case makes it seem like that alternator has been on there for a while so it must have worked at one point and has failed. Most likely it needs a new voltage regulator. @RebelRancher I see you are in Groveland FL. Too bad you didn't post this a week or two ago. I was 20 minutes away from Groveland at my townhouse. Would have been glad to come over and help. I Googled and there is a place in Clermont call Steve's Auto Electric. Take your alternator to him. Any decent auto electric guy will know what to do and how to test.
I watched a video on YouTube. It said power from the hot side of the ignition switch to #1 terminal on alternator. #2 is for radio and lights. Not no radio or light. #2 term to post on alternator. Which one is correct?
Thank you. I thought it was a common alternator. One question. I noticed the pulley on the one old is alot larger. Will they interchange or will the smaller pulley work ? I will have to change the belt then. Have to remove radiator and connector between crank staft and hydraulic pump to change belt. A pain in the ***
That's referring to a standard alternator. You have a one wire alternator if it ever worked wired like that. Check that you have battery voltage at the big stud terminal, and when it's running. See if you can find the place to ground the voltage regulator with a screwdriver to put it in full output, bypassing the voltage regulator. It might not have that feature, so don't worry if you don't find it. What new alternator do you have? a smaller pulley should work with the same belt, looks like you have some adjustment left. The smaller alternator pulley will spin the alternator faster, which is good in this case.
I haven't bought a new one yet. The one the parts man pulled off the shelf look like the one Jones302 put in a link earlier in this thread.
For the record, the old 410 came with a Motorola (MOTOROLA NO. A12NJD453). Replacement part from Deere is still a Motorola.
One terminal is a idiot light ground and on is to apply voltage to excit it i may be wrong what one is what buy if you hit the wrong one it will just make some nice sparks and you'll know its the wrong one. That's how I end up figuring it out because I can never remember what one is what.
The pulleys are interchangeable. There maybe spacers behind them. There are several differences in the DR SI alternators. That is why parts people want to know what vehicle it is for. If it doesn't have a self-exciting voltage regulator they usually won't charge until the motor spins them fast enough to kick in. Those self exciting regulators are cheap and easy to install. The clock position probably isn't important for use on a tractor installation. RR; Your alternator should have the model # on it.
Pulleys will switch 15/16 socket and an impact zips them right off or a pliers to hold it and a hand wrench thats another thing parts stores use to help with a minute in the back and you were ready to go As delmer said if your belts and stuff work with a smaller pulley its better because the diesel engine doesn't have to rev so much to spin the alternator fast
they all look the same, only difference is that black plug over the terminals, and the rotation/clocking of where the back cover is aligned with the mounts, and the pulley. the link showed a one wire alternator, just the big battery positive wire gets hooked up, and it charges as soon as it gets up to speed. Any delco 10 or 12 SI alternator can be converted to one wire with a $20 one wire voltage regulator, or can be hooked up with the ignition lead like the diagram shows.
The physics in alternators are pretty similar. All (nearly) make three phase AC. They have six poles, a winding is continuous around two cores on opposite sides of the stator. In most, one end of each winding is grounded. We can call them three phase AC Y configured. From the output stator windings, they go to three diodes, turning off flow of half the AC power. A voltage regulator is needed. It senses battery need, and controls the rotating field current to control output. The rotating field has a single coil, but interlocking fingers to create many magnetic poles of varying strength as the voltage regulator controls. All this can be integral to the alternator, or mounted remote from it. Hence the varying number of conductors. The GM 1 wire alternator has all the electronics internal. Stator & field coils use either each other, or go to ground, rotating field coil uses the frame as a conductor.