Backhoe seems to lack power. I hope to check and adjust the pressure if necessary. Don't find any info in Operators Manual. If any members know where and how to do that or know a link to the method I would appreciate your advice. Thanks, Dave McC.
Straight 410? The whole machine lacks power or just the backhoe? How is the steering? There is not a "system relief valve" on that tractor. Pressure is controlled by the hydraulic pump's stroke control valve. The pump charge and standby pressures are checked at the pump. That information would not be in an operator's manual. You need to acquire the tech manual TM1037.
Please explain "lacks power" and explain your experience with backhoes or excavators. Will the stabilizers lift the wheels off the ground? Will the backhoe lift the stabilizers off the ground?
Thanks for your reply. It is a straight 410 (1975). Trying to pick up a full backhoe and couldn't manage until I dumped some out. I have heard others who say they needed to crank up the rpms but I hesitate to run consistently like that. The steering works good. I had a Case 530 and had to raise the hydraulic pressure up to spec. I was hoping that could be done on the JD410.
Thanks for your reply. I use the backhoe for landscaping and excavating only on my property. I had a well worn Case 530 in the past that I did some drainage work and excavating with it. I plan to excavate for a garage foundation and retaining wall and move some large rocks. I also have a few stumps to remove. The stabilizers will lift the wheels but I haven't tried lifting the stabilizers off. Other hydraulic functions seem to work OK. I would like to know what pressure I have and if I can set the maximum to the manufacturers spec as I have on the Case.
Gotcha, yes the backhoe should be able to lift a bucket load of dirt halfway out or so. You have to understand this is a closed center piston pump system, it SHOULD be more efficient than an open center gear pump on most backhoes that old. A gear pump might wear and not produce rated PSI at idle, the piston pump should still produce rated PSI at idle, just slower than at full speed. The PSI is what makes the force, the flow makes the speed of the hydraulics. So you don't want to go cranking up the standby pressure without a gauge to know what you're doing, AND the knowledge to know that you're not trying to compensate for a leak and end up breaking something. First of all, you shouldn't break anything running at full throttle, the engine, pump and everything is designed to run at full speed all day long. With the typical slop in an old backhoe, it might scare you how the backhoe jumps around, but won't hurt anything you can't reach. Running at full speed might give it plenty of power if there's a small leak somewhere. If there is a leak in just one function, then you should be able to figure that out by starting the backhoe up some morning when it's cool, then hold the function stalled for twenty seconds, then shut the engine off and feel the components for warmth. So if lifting the boom is weak, then load the bucket full so it won't lift, and hold it there. The pump should shut off and the engine have no load on it, but if there's a leak then you might notice a load on the engine and it will create heat fast where there's a leak. That could be the piston in the cylinder or the control valve most likely. Only 2,350 PSI if what I found is correct.
Maximum standby pressure spec is 2400 psi.
50 psi will not change it if weak component in system. First notation by a instructor on later machines use, when working put the throttle at the gov limit as that is where they were designed to work. Seems nearly every machine I worked on and YEARS ago that had hydraulics issues the operator wanted the reliefs set higher, trying to compensate for seals packages bypassing or aged pumps unable to deliver volume required and adjusting the reliefs was next to nothing where added only to damage machines when did fix the actual problem and not remembering to return the reliefs to normal settings or not being told had been jacked with.
Thanks to all for the good advice. I purchased the manual and found there are tests that can be done. Unfortunately most require expensive looking analyzers. All I have is a 3000 psi gauge which is useful but minimally. I have some studying to do. After thinking over some of your comments, I think part of the problem may be operator error and that will require some practice to work out. Stay safe and well. Thanks again, Dave