I am installing a rebuilt reverser in my JD 410D Back Hoe because I lost forward and reverse and I am told the reverser is the problem … Does the torque converter need to be replaced also ? Thanks Doug 1993 John Deere 410D 2WD Backhoe Ser # 805280 ID # TO410DB805280
Need to be, not necessarily, but, unless you'd take it to some transmission shop to have it cleaned and tested out it's hard to tell what shape it may be in. It's not a bad idea to replace it while you're in there, not only to have the peace of mind about it, but to also keep any garbage that may be in the thing from getting into your new reverser. I doubt you'd like to get her all back together and then find out the old TC has issues or even have to tear it back apart a couple of months down the road if it starts acting up. I'd personally replace it, and did on mine when I had my 580C all apart, and I'm sure some others on here will have a like opinion.
Unless you can flush it out until it is as clean as a new one, replace it.
Brand new JD 410D owner here. Been a contractor for 40 years but was never the 'talent' on the job (operator). I apologize to all of those operators who got an earful from me because I wanted an extra 1/2" of material removed... (smile). OK, so I am spending time in the seat, making steady progress. Machine has about 2K hours on it and the converter light goes on. (warning light on console). I slow rpm and let it run for 2 minutes and shut it down. I have both the owners manual and the service manual but cannot trouble shoot as to why the light went on. I'm figuring it is a clogged filter or something simple as the machine was never in 'commercial service' and has been well maintained. Any idea as to what might be going on and what I should do/not do? All suggestions are welcome and a big thank you in advance.
Welcome to HEF moonmadman ! Serial number? Is your cooling package clean? The hydraulic and reverser coolers are in front of the radiator. Are you operating in 1st or 2nd gear and not something higher causing excessive stalling of the torque converter? Might want to shoot the temperature with an infrared temperature gun at the bottom of the reverser when the light comes on since the oil coming back from the cooler goes there. The sender for the converter is on top of the converter housing. You could try to shoot a temp there but I think access is limited. We need to establish if you are actually overheating.
Well, a sincere thank you for the speedy reply MG! Serial # is TO10DG78659B It is a 1992 410D, heavy lift, Extendahoe, 4WD, purchased from the original owner. I've changed the oil and filters and greased everything. Machine is tight and right and probably a victim of limited intermittent use as opposed to overuse. As a newbie, I have been operating in 3rd gear mostly (unless I need some extra oomph, and then I shift to 2nd. I am still learning how to be graceful with this machine and I've found that lower RPM and gear allow me to move slow and steady. While I've got your ear, is there any advantage to pressure washing the machine, radiators, undercarriage and engine compartment? Ill advised? The indicator lights on the dash don't seem to go on when I turn the key; I thought it might be a fuse or maybe I'm doing something wrong. I have not changed the hydraulic oil/filter, as I am hoping to have a grownup around when I do that (I'm 71). Any other advice would be a godsend and I will gladly offer advice on carpentry/kitchens/baths/additions, as these are the areas where I am the grown up in the room. I will check temps next time I fire up the machine. Thank you for your time and interest in all of this. Moon. ps I was using the machine on a hot (100F.) day, digging into cobble and the light went on after a couple of hours. It was the first time (besides the parking brake) that any indicator lights have gone on. M.
3rd and 4th are for roading only. All work should be done in 1st or 2nd. 1st if heavy pushing is involved. Try turning the to just shy of the start position. That would be the bulb check position and all the indicators should light up. A clean machine is a happy machine . Pay particular attention to the area between the cooler and the radiator. That area likes to collect debris. When cleaning a cooling package with a pressure washer just be extra careful with the wand and how close you get. High pressure can bend the radiator fins closed and make heating issues worse. I usually used compressed air for the area between the coolers to dislodge any debris. Sometimes I have to remove the cooler hardware and move it away from the radiator to clean.
It makes a big difference if you're talking about a 1,500 PSI electric or a 4,000 PSI 4GPM or bigger. You have to be very careful around the fins with any pressure washer, mostly a matter of distance. Also be careful not to direct water at seals, bearings, starter/alternator. Purple power is a cheap effective degreaser available at wallyworld. After you wash the radiator and engine, apply purplepower to the still greasy spots and let it sit, but pressure wash it again before it dries. repeat, let it dry, use air when it's dry. Use a light from the other side to see through the fins to make sure there is no gunk left. Like MG said, running in third is going to overheat the torque converter, too much heat being made, and not enough engine speed to cool it off.
My word; y'all jumped right in and offered generous and experienced advice. Thank you all. I'll be running this thing later in the week and will apply all of this good advice I will also go step by step according to the owner's manual, seeing if I've missed an important step or two. As an explanation, the reason I ran the hoe in 3rd gear is that second gear hits me in the knee when I'm running the machine. Two more questions: I bought a full assortment of 'zerks', as a couple/several of the grease fittings didn't want to take any grease. Even changing them out to new ones, one or two still are reluctant to accept enough grease to start squeezing out. Method of solving this? Additionally, the brakes, when the machine is running in gear, require quite a bit of foot to slow us down. Of course, putting it in neutral solves this problem easily. Should I be considering adjusting brakes or is this typical of this machine? Thank you, each and every one, for the sage advice and patience with this low skilled newbie. It is all so much appreciated. ps My pressure washer is a Honda 3000psi gas unit and I am quite experienced in 'burning' holes in wood with it and start out quite a distance away and work my way closer as to avoid these kind of mistakes. No issues with injecting water into grease fittings or shorting out anything electrical besides what Delmer has suggested? thx. Moon
I'm not worried about grease fittings as much as the crankshaft seal, wheel seals, rubber bits, wiring harness, and radiator fins. The brakes sound like something is wrong with the trans or the engine isn't returning to idle. the torque converter shouldn't keep pulling much at idle. I'm thinking there is no brake adjustment, but MG will know for sure. Clean as much old grease as possible before putting the new zerk in. Use brake cleaner. move the joint with pressure on the grease gun. Use thinner oil, penetrating oil in the joint before you put the zerk back in. Try heat, try a porta power with adapters down to 1/8" NPT. sometimes you have to take it apart, or drill through the bushing to get it to grease.
That is correct. They have self-adjusters. Brake pedal effort is a common complaint with "C" and "D" models. The brake discs can glaze over creating the issue. It is more common on machines that are run over the road (think municipalities) than machines that are trailered around. The fix can be quite expensive and sometimes does not last. If you can stop it and you can live with the effort to stop it, just let it be.