Have 1968 JD 5020 clutch is stuck, cannot drive safely. Going to split this green machine myself, but have a couple of questions. First, I do not have repair manual for this unit, if anyone does I would like to hear from you. Second- Do I move the front end forward or the back end back to get at the clutch? One of the fingers of the pressure plate is broken, and the clutch discs are stuck. Any advice would be appreciated
I have two stands made that bolt to the frame about where the starter is located. Then I have a stand that has a steel coaster wheel on it and this A frame type stand bolts to the trans housing so that it's braced under the tractor about where the front drawbar pin is located. Then you can split the tractor and with a helper roll the rear wheels away from the front of the tractor. Both front and rear stands are adjustable in height to aid in mating the tractor back together. Just search tractor splitting stands on the internet and you'll get some good ideas. You'll need a special tool from Deere to set the adjustment on the PTO clutch, going from memory. Get a service manual for it. Tractor Supply has them published by I&T or you can get an original off Ebay or from the dealer. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trk...nkw=John+Deere+5020+manual&_sacat=0&_from=R40 The Deere service manual goes into a lot more detail, hint hint.
Thank you for the advice. I will look for tractor splitting stands tonight, and definitely check for the manual from john deere. Good advice
Roll the rear wheels back??? Why would you try to move the heaviest half of the tractor that has all of the drive and gear reductions it? I do custom farm tractor repair on anything up to 180 hp and I would never roll the backend away. Splitting stands are fine if you want to go to the trouble, but a good screw jack under the front of the tranny and a heavy capacity floor jack or a rolling cart under the oil pan (as they are cast) is all I use(4020's, 1486 IH's, 2290 Case, etc). Cut some wedges to drive into the front axle at the pivot to keep it from tilting side to side. A prybar will get it initially split, then pry roll the front wheels or tie off to something out front and pull with a come-along. Use two of them to pull it back together (gently). I do have a manual for it if you have any questions. Look on the JD website at their parts page and you can get a good idea of what is in there. For a good price on a rebuilt kit, look at All States Tractor Parts. Check your flywheel for wear as it may need to be refaced. The 5020 clutch doesn't require the extensive setup procedure as the 4020 clutch does as the PTO is a hydraulic clutch further back and only the lever height needs to be checked. The engine clutch uses dual 12" 21 spline discs.
I like to be able to line the tractor up lengthwise by using the rear wheels to wiggle it back together. It's amazing how easily 5' tall wheels roll on a concrete shop floor. Here's how me and another idiot that I found on the internet do it the wrong way: His tractor is a lot shinier than any I've worked on. In fact, his stand looks a heckuva lot better than mine too. I noticed a lot of 5020's didn't have PTO's in the wheat belt. The service manuals that I recommended will have the correct procedure to set it if yours does have one.
NOT trying to offend, but stands work well if you don't have many brands come through, or those with a loader frame bolted on or 18.4x38's or bigger with a bunch of weights on them, and have the time to custom fit to each tractor (Ford I have split now has no place to bolt a frame to). I can have an IH 856 split and flywheel out in little over an hour with four 18" guide bolts and a heavy floor jack. Moving the front away only means moving the engine and front axle (liter part of tractor with little rolling resistance). If they have a transmission lock or locking brakes, those can be used to help keep the rear from moving. As it starts to split, adjust so the vertical parting lines are parallel. As far as alignment, it should come back together as it rolled apart, and when it gets close, use guide bolts for horizontal and vertical alignment and a long prybar can move the jack or cart sideway. My experience only comes from replacing more clutches than I can remember.
Ok can I use 4 ton floor jack as support for teh front to move it? Or is the motor too heavy and I need to look heavier? I know its stupid question, but I do not want to drop the thing
Ok can I use 4 ton floor jack as support for teh front to move it? Or is the motor too heavy and I need to look heavier? I know its stupid question, but I do not want to drop the thing
I have split more tractors than I care to count. And have only used splitting stands once and will never do it again. I just got done putting a 4020 back together last night actually and the best way to split them is with a hoist. Pull the back two head bolts to attach chains and away you go. If you have any kind of A-frame or hoist that is your best bet. I have also split them with a backhoe or loader or forklift with a boom and drive in from the front with your hook over the head and do the same as with the hoist. Things are much easier to move and get lined up when they are hanging vs sitting on a jack or stands. The 5020 I had apart a couple years ago I put a jack under the front of the oil pan and rolled the frame rales fuel tank and front axel off leaving the block bolted to the clutch housing then came back with the crane and took the block off for an overhaul. This is your project though and there is always more than one way to skin a cat so pick a way to do it with the tools you have and if you have more questions just come on back. There will be someone here that can help Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
We made a splitting jack out of square tubing years ago . The center tube extends for adjusting with a bottle jack . Used 5" caster wheels and they fit in 3 different positions depending on what size tractor you are working on . Make brackets as needed to fit whatever brand of tractor . Brackets on it now fit a Ford 7710 . They bolt to the oil pan flange .
Managed to split the tractor with all the advice. Removed the clutch assembly, ordered all new parts. Now I call the JD dealer to get a clutch alignment tool, was told they are no longer available. Anyone out there have a great idea how to align the clutches and adjust as needed without crying too hard?
If you have a lathe measure the size of your clutch shaft and duplicate. It doesn't have to have the splines but it does need to fit snug into the clutch. If you were working on a 4020 i have a broken shaft i would let you use but i don't think it would be the same between the two. The other option that i can think of would be to pull the clutch housing off of the transmission and pull the clutch shaft out and use it. Which may not be a bad idea because i just got done putting one back together that the owner thought was the rear main and wound up being the transmission seal Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
no I do ot have a lathe. That would be too easy
What do lights have to do with a tractor clutch? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
I was a little confused as to why I needed LED lites for this tractor. Have the flywheel and intermediate clutch being resurfaced. Looking for rochshaft push pull cable- while its apart I might as well fix the broken things too.
Measure the pilot bearing size and the clutch size needed. Many parts stores have lots of the plastic ones they lend out. Maybe you will get lucky and find the correct one. A local mechanic used to make his own on a wood lathe. Seemed they worked fine.
Thank you. I will do that this morning. I have to wait on parts anyway.
Hi Guys, I have just purchased a 1968 5020 (only one in Ireland) it has a few problems!!!!!!! (1) the clutch is not engaging, the cable is running freely and moving the leaver on the side of the tractor but nothing is happening, is there a linkage in the unit where the cable is attached to the tractor if there is I am hoping this may be broken if not I assume I will have to split ? (2) There is a clicking noise (similar to the bendix on the starter staying in) coming from the right hand side of the steering colm (not the starter side) is this normal or should I be worried ? I would be grateful for and advise on the above.
I've never worked on or seen a 5020 but my I&T manual mentions a mechanical disconnect before the hydraulic clutch. I don't find a cable to operate it so it may be like the travel disconnect on the powershift models and have to be manually moved. Could it possibly be turned to the disconnect position? As far as the clicking, my first thought is a relay solenoid mounted on the firewall. On the later models, there is one for main system power.
sorry its the PTO that is not engaging , the actual clutch is fine , I will check the solenoid tks.