I have a 07 550H and the right track started to lock up on me. It threw the code F372. Went through the steps to find that the left speed sensor was only putting out 2.8 volts. Changed the sensor. I did bottomed the sensor out and backed off a 1/2-3/4 turn. Didn’t fix the problem. The steering is now acting up a little different but still locking up some. Mostly it’s just steering to the right. After I changed the sensor I’m getting F3M1 code. Do I just need to calibrate it. I’ve heard this can open a can of worms. Is this my next step? I did notice a bunch more codes but believe they are old and were never erased. I don’t think it would ever pass calibration with all those codes? Like I said I think the F372 and F3M1 are the only new ones. If I should delete them how do I do that? Thanks In advance
Please post the machine serial number. Did you check the wiring (supply voltage, signal voltage) for the left track motor speed sensor before you replaced it? You said you have 2.8 volts. Measured on which wire? Measured while backprobed? Try the calibration first. Just make sure you clear all the codes first. Then report back.
How do I delete the codes? Once I delete them I will try the calibration
Ignition on, park lever up. On the TCU, press the menu button until CODE is in the screen. Then press select. The press next until the word END is in the display. With the word END in the display, press and hold the select button for approximately 5 seconds, F300 will display, then END. Codes are cleared at this point. Turn ignition off.
Thank you
Just got done trying to calibrate it. Wasn’t able to finish it. Has the code F358 and dozer won’t move. Next step?
I stand corrected dozer does move.
Seems to be tracking straight now. Hear selector won’t go above 2.1
F358 is an Anti-stall calibration code. It indicates the active range of the decelerator sensor is too small; or during calibration the engine speed control lever or decelerator pedal are moved in less than 5 seconds through its full travel. Also, post your serial number, please. Check your messages.
*TO550HX893808*
So does this mean I moved the control speed lever wrong during calibration?
Maybe. Did you take a full 5 seconds to move it through its entire travel? Do you have the proper calibration procedure for your serial number and software version? Also, did you review the materials I sent you?
No i defiantly didn’t take 5 seconds to move the lever. As far as the calibration procedure, I was just following the computer screen. I need to go ahead and order a service manual so I have it. I don’t have anything. I have read the posts that you have sent me back. Is there other material that you have sent me somewhere else?
I just seen a message. I’m trying to download what you sent me now.
I sent you the calibration procedure based on your serial number and options. Operation and Test manual you would want is TM1743. Click the link below, or Google search it. Deere Bookstore
Good evening! Some had a minute to recalibrate the 550. It did pass the first step and does not have the code f358 present. I must have been because I was moving the FNR lever too fast. However it did not pass the second step. It now has 2 more codes to deal with. F3A8 and F3E8. What am I in for now?
F3A8 and F3E8 are calibration codes for the rear LH PCP. Check your messages.
Hey good evening. So a few questions. I read a post of yours that the guy was having the same F3A8 and F3E8. You told him to swap sides with the solenoids and it corrected his problem. So I began to do that and of course the one on the left broke. What is that black plastic piece around the valve? Is it a magnet? And is that supposed to spin freely on the valve shaft? Bc this one is seized on there. Maybe that could be my problem?
Is this what you broke? If so, yes, it should spin freely on the valve stem. The plastic (coil) being seized, however, should not affect the operation of the valve inside the stem (usually).
Yes the coil is what broke. Should I just change the coil? Or change the valve as well? The coop is really stuck on there. Can I test the valve somehow?
Your call. The coil is about $690, the assembly is about $1700. If you remove the valve portion from the motor (put a vacuum on the tank), you can use the coil from the other side (if it comes off) to place it on the valve stem, energize it with 12 volts, and see if the inners of the valve move. It's not an ironclad test, but it should at least move. Check your messages.
Holy smokes! I called JD today. And they want $1,700 for that valve. That is a pricey part. That’s crazy. Can a hydraulic shop rebuild the valve? If they can rebuild then I can get the coil kit for $800. Then continue to swap the solenoids from side to side.
Another dumb question. You say put a vacuum on the tank? Is this so the pumps don’t drain the tank? Also to energize I just need to turn the key on?
If you remove the solenoid valve, you will drain the reservoir without the vacuum. Energize it for testing by hot wiring it with jumpers.