flat radiator cleaned new trans new torque converter and regulator shimmed correctly new trans cooler new belts and pulleys . does anyone a make a better extreme cooling radiator ? Thanks
You have done a lot to try and get it running cooler so far! Sounds like it should be running a lot cooler than it is, what ambient temperatures are you working in?
95 to 100 if i run it at night when its cooler it will run around 210 to 220 Thanks
Yeah ok that’s warm but I would think it shouldn’t be too much for the stock system to handle. I don’t have any first hand knowledge with the D8N’s but my D6H is of a similar age and I have had trouble with it running hot, hope I have it sorted now. We get temps in the 105-115*F range here in summer regularly. I think it was mentioned on my D6 thread that the D8’s of the same age had a marginal cooling system in hot weather. Nige sent me a document about “High Ambient Cooling packs” for dozers and I’m pretty sure it lists upgrades for the dozers larger than mine… I’ll see if I can find it. The guys that will be able to help you more than me will want a serial number when they come along too? Have you checked the temps with a IR gun to make sure it is actually running as hot as the gauge says? This was part of my trouble.
How quickly do both temps come down if you throw it into neutral at high idle?
We had some large dozers with plows behind for plowing in plastic pipe, that get too hot because the dozer is always just a hair from torque stall. Dozers are meant to back up and cool down while doing so. Have not operated in your extreme heat as 90F is few days in a year around here. Just saying that incorrect operating can overheat, but the kind of heat you are into would overheat most machines. Not sure of your problems solution. Simon C
yes I've have checked it with a IR gun trans temp and engine temp and they was with in a few degrees of each other Thanks
usually in about 15 min and it will drop10 or 15 degrees and it will drop 5 degrees backing up after the push
How was it performing before you did all this.? Better, worse, or the same. With a Serial Number I can look up whether any high-ambient cooling package was ever available from the factory.
That sounds awful slow for a cooling package that is working as it should. With the trans temp at 220/225 if you throw it into neutral with the engine at high idle RPM the trans temp gauge reading should fall like a stone.
Thanks I've always had D7Gs and the last I had over 30 years and it never got over 200 .And had rebuilt the whole machine and had it like new . I got diagnose with cancer in 2021 and panic set in and I sold it so now I'm starting over again .This is the first D8N I've own and I'm ocd lol and eventually will rebuild the whole tractor and I'm already off to a good start lol Thanks
The same but the trans was starting to slip some .I purchase it and I do not have any history on the tractor . So I've started rebuilding everything as needed lol. Sn # 9TC 1564 Thanks
sorry I meant to say it will drop 10 or 15 degrees sitting at high idle in about 10 or 15 mins and it will drop about 5 degrees backing up after the push . it stayed around 200 during the winter months and if I run at night when its cooler it runs about 215 Thanks
For sure need to check actual temps with an IR gun. 225 is not really that hot for a transmission. The fact that the engine is running hotter than the trans makes me wonder if the engine temp gauge is wrong. The trans is cooled by the engine coolant so if anything it should run hotter than the engine. The D8n will always run a little high on the trans temp but isn’t a problem until the light comes on.
Trans temp light trigger point is 127 DegC (260 DegF) if my memory serves me right. You're right. 225F (107C) for a transmission (actually the converter out temp) is not that hot.
That puzzled me as well. If the coolant temp was hotter than the transmission then the transmission temp would never come down.
Fuel injection timing off a little ?
TBH I think the first thing to do is clarify why the engine coolant temperature is indicated to be higher than the transmission temperature, something which by the normal laws of physics is impossible.
The temp drop across the radiator, checked at top and bottom hoses while it is running hot might be very illuminating? Not sure what everyone else thinks?
I was wondering about that . It runs really good
I will check again Monday . I hate the gauges that the numbers are so small you can't see them lol . old school green and red gauges for me just glance down and if its in the the green keep pushing
I've checked this but I'll check again monday Thanks
I'll check it again monday Thanks
Ok sorry for the late response . I shot the top tank again with my Milwaukee temp gun and it never got over 212 degrees . I changed out the factory temp gauge with a mechanical SW gauge and it hasn't gotten over 215 degrees in a hard push with the Alabama heat index over 105 degrees and drops 5 degrees or more backing up for the next short push 200 feet . I am thinking about changing the trans temp gauge to mechanical gauge or one i can at least see easily .Trans temp seems to hover around 220 degrees . Thanks
So just to clarify... the new mechanical gauge is reading how much below the old electric? You may have had an electrical issue causing it to give false readings? Those temps you listed don't sound too bad for the ambient temp if working hard... a bit lower on the coolant would be nicer but will be interesting to see what the other guys think of them. Did you check the temp difference between the top and bottom radiator hoses while it was hot to see how efficiently the radiator is working? The exact temps and temp drop numbers can give clues where to look next.
That sounds about right for the ambient temperature. It might be worth shooting the temp on the oil inlet from the converter to the transmission cooler just for confirmation but again 220 is nothing to be concerned about in those ambient temperature conditions. The power train oil is always going to be somewhat warmer than the coolant temperature otherwise the transmission cooler wouldn't work.
10 to 15 degrees below the old one . And it takes it several hrs before its gets to 215 and like I said it drops 5 degrees backing up . I have checked the wiring and it in good shape and ohm's out correctly . the needle did fall off the shaft in the gauge while I was swapping it out . I shot the top hose and it was around 212 to 213 degrees by the time get the door open it is already cooling down . I do not feel I'm getting a good reading on the bottom hose because I can not get the temp gun very close to it while its running . fan belt on the alternator turning and not much room. but i get with in 14 inches of it or less. But its been being around 170 degrees Thanks
Thanks I'll shoot it again