hi i like to know my first cylinder closest to the front FAn.. is leaking... i unscrewed it and not sure is it a compression fitting is it a O Ring i need or what and if its compression i guess thats not brass ones? its a JD 310 A Backhoe
I have the same machine with a different problem. The joint you shared a picture of is a compression fitting and yours looks rusted which could explain the leak. There is also an O-ring fitting above the injector that could be leaking. Let me know if you want a picture of that joint
Not O-ring, Eastman seals, look like pieces of vacuum tubing but NOT.
i dunno what a vacuum tubing but not really is or what eastman seal is and yes i could use pics.. on what i need or what not???
These are Eastman seals, fit over a low pressure tube inside a compression nut as the brass one in top of your picture, Return Fuel side and will lek like screens when go bad. Dorman p/n in reverse on other side of package.
Wow, thanks D! I guess Millers are good for something. I have been dealing with those since I was 13, and I never knew Dorman made them, I thought they were a dealer item. I am going to order a bag to keep, so I'll never need another. On edit: They are about $30 at part stores, $19.99 from Zoro. com. They are part of Grainger, and I order from them all the time.
oh ok so thas all i need those rubbers so that just compresses and does the same as the orginal metal.. so do i just get the old metal one off and shove one of those on and then put it back on?
is that american 30 bucks and i take it zoro is a store and not the masked guy? https://www.amazon.ca/DORMAN-904497-FUEL-LINE-SLEEVE/dp/B07CZ6QVYF found on amazon as i in canada
Not for the lower tube That is High pressure and will probably require a replacement line
Any autoparts house that sells Dorman Products can get them.
so re reading things as i confused now is the line i took off thats high compression? and i need that rubber bushing but also the compression fitting to replace.. or is the rubber dormans so you dont replace the compression fitting.. sorry but confused
The line you have apart in the picture is the high pressure line, steel on steel, no rubber there. Take the tee off that goes across the top, that's where the rubber seals go, and that's what usually leaks. If you are positive that the steel on steel part you have open is leaking, then you could try tightening it up as tight as you dare. If you crack that, then you're still going to replace the line and injector, the injector will be easier to get than the line, so not much lost if you break something.
ah ok.. so on this injector where its leaking is coming out of the top of the Cone.. that i unscrewed.. when the engine is running its coming out of the top and dripping where the line goes into the Cone i removedi dont think the side ones are leaking just so far the Top piece where that compression fitting is leaks up the pipe and out ill have to take a new pic and send where i saw it leaking
so where you see my finger pointing is currently where the fuel is leaking from.. if there is any other leaks i not sure yet jsut this one i noticed coming out not a fast leak but it does come out and i notice engine doesnt 100% run right and i need to make another post as i not sure my rpms are right ore my throttle is so stiff
Slide the nut up some, clean the line and look for a crack. Does the leak pulse or just ooze fuel ?
ah kk and ill have to try to get a mirror as its in a an awkward spot.. i had heck of time getting it up that far must be the paint restrticing it.. and not ooze more like a real slow drip but like if you blow it it away with crompressed air its wet again a second later but not fast enough for a stream just just gets wet but ill try tommorow
Replace the injection line
when u go to the JD Dealer to get/order the line, they are cylinder specific..& pre-bent.. SO know which cyl it is..& have ALL the engine #'s off the data tag.. usually found around the inj. pump area.
sorry the delay and i didnt get this last reply.. i ended up getting a small wire wheel the brass ones from a dremel kit and polished the metal of the rust.. so far no leaks.. no i dunno if i need to post a 2nd topic or post here.. i have throttle issues.. its not like my tractor if i drop the rpms on the tractor she stays running on the backhoe she shuts off.. plus i guess i need to hit the throttle lever the cable i guess needs replacing... but i had issues postint to youtube this time.. but i put 2 videos in MS OneDrive link.. the throttle doesnt do anything right away you will see in the video.. and i not sure if its running as fast as it should be maybe you guys know but here is the link https://1drv.ms/u/s!AkZ74ugB21knq1op_uDdP31n_eVC?e=pn7mze
I just watched your video.. There should be a stop screw on the low idle side of the throttle lever.. What that stop screw does is stops the throttle from going to far n shutting off the engine.. The actual low idle is set on the top cover.. it sounds like it’s fine.. or maybe a little fast.. If u already have a stop screw in the lever, u set it by running it down until the rpms start to pick up & back it out 1 full turn & lock it down.. As far as the max rpm, u can’t go by that gauge u have.. Invest in a hand help photo tach. Good luck
is a photo tach likea timing gun? so the play of the lever at at the pump i dont think there should be any play right. is that probably set completely right out.. i had several years ago had the pump rebuilt and just shoved it in.. and now i learned last year from you guys.. you dont need special tools and i can do the repair myself to save 600+ just to have ti rebuilt but i was thinking from what you said that screw must be turned way out reason i i can flop it that much before it picks up and why cant you got by the gauge.. is that gauge no good.. ill take a new video once i get that throttle right and would that also help too as i cant lift the bucket or outriggers at idle as they drop on there own.. but i know why my tractor i cant lift the bucket at idle no need to raise rpm and on my leyland tracktor the damn tach breaks in the engine.. the cable and the tach fine but the part in the engine breaks can this photo tach be mounted permently?
The photo tach is a hand held device that shoots a laser at a piece of reflective tape u put on the front harmonic balancer.. every time the tape comes around it reflects on the beam n tells u the rpm.. MUCH MORE reliable than that 30 year old tach.. Yes it’s like the old timing lite guns w used on gas engines.. but different.. U can SEE if the throttle has a low idle screw by just moving the throttle to wide open WITHOUT STARTING THE ENGINE.. The screw n nut will be visible.. Good luck
sorry delay I ment to reply sooner.. I never found tach thing so gave up on that but the Idle Screw I guess I don't have one.. its missing reason why it stalls when I shut down lol.. I feel like A U shap and I see a threaded spot when looking at the injector pump its on the left side.. but what parts do I need and what kinda screw as I don't have spare to thread in there.. do I need 2 nuts special screw etc also I looked into getting a throttle cable.. John deere sells it for 200+ ot it was 290+ dollars for that short cable.. I tried amazon but they don't have it.. is there an aftermarket that will fit in or retrofit something as over 200 dollars for a cable I cant afford that... I don't even know why there is no grease fittings so you can grease these cables
Re-read the last post on the 1st page for screw info.. If u post the pump info, I can tell ya the part # u need for the screw & nut.. As far as the cable goes, there’s tons of info on the web for freeing & lubing a cable in a sheath.
@thepumpguysc ok ill get that today I did watch some videos 1 used WD 40 and plastersene to make a funnel.. another video said don't use wd40 nothing corrosive.. so what do you recommend on a liquid to use.. as another video talked about synthenic oils and ill get the pump numbers as soon as I can
Here's your photo tach. I have one that cost a couple of hundred dollars 20 yrs ago. I bought one of these to keep on a machine, by comparison it works as good as my expensive one. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Phot...d=1&keywords=tachometer&qid=1604765415&sr=8-8
Check on the lever at the pump, there's a sort of double hairpin spring, I could only see part of one end, make sure it's all there and not bent or broken, it's to allow overtravel in both directions so you don't accidentally break the pump control shaft. There should be a single bolt and spacer bushing as I recall attaching that lever to the pump control shaft, make sure it looks right and is snug, don't overtighten, that can get expensive when you break things.
Your right on the money Mitch.. I bought 1 to..& compared it to my 300.00 one.. dead nuts on the readings.!! The only fault I can find with it is, the tape.!! The adhesive sux.!! Won’t stick to anything.!! I keep a small bottle of Super Glue in the pouch w the tape.. NOW the tape sticks to anything.!! Hey comet.. how bout those pump #’s.? Did u fix the problem already.??