I have number 3 cylinder leaking and want to make sure I am using the right name , Boom cylinder when I order the repair kits, #2 is Crowd,..? Also does anyone have some helpful tips learned while changing the seals on one or a similar one,...
1,2,3 = bucket, crowd or dipper and boom.
I've never done a boom cylinder, that will be a big piece of iron to handle. Definitely not going to lift that out by hand. It might be easiest to dig a trench and point it straight down, use another machine to lift the rod out of the cylinder, and put it back in. Is that a bolt on gland on the boom cylinder? with JD's funny locknut style gland on all the other cylinders. That will be the easy part. The tough part will be breaking the piston nut loose, guessing around 2,000 ft/lbs to break it loose. There are some threads on here about cutting a wrench out of plate or similar ways to tackle a nut like that if you're game to try it. Otherwise you can take the rod and gland to a hydraulic shop to take apart, or the whole cylinder if you can manage to get it out of there.
Yes indeed I am figuring a way to maybe dig at least a hole to allow the bucket to drop down into as it is fully extended and using some railroad jacks to lift the arm to release pressure to get the snap ring out then lower to pull rod out , If that makes sense I've read some using long cheater bars, main thing will be protecting rod and other pieces during this,...
OK, that is the funny lock ring type gland. It sounds like you understand the process, I'll repeat it anyway. That half inch thick lock ring is what you have to unscrew. It may come off easy on this one because it's not rusty. It might tap loose with a dull cold chisel worked one notch to the next. If you need more torque, you'll need to make something like this pic #7 HeavyEquipmentForums This gland will be nothing compared to the piston nut though...
I've done a few boom cylinder repairs and seals. You can do it without taking the cylinder of the machine stick a 2x4 or something under the end where the gland nut is and pull the pin. Then raise it up enough & block it to get the gland nut off the pin at the other end will hold it from turning. I'd leave the hoses on you may have to fire up the machine to push the rod out if you can't pull it out. To hold the rod and get the piston off you could pull the pin on a stabilizer and use it like in this pic. Sorry I never took and pics. when I did the boom cylinder seals. In the pic. above I had to take if off to weld up the end of the cylinder.
Ordered this wrench, thinking it will work on several cylinders , http://www.tooltopia.com/armstrong-34-310.aspx
This is how I removed my 310D boom cylinder. Use the right stabilizer leg to tip the machine over as far as it will go. Just put the left leg down to prevent the machine from rolling over. Swing the boom over to the high side and drop it down to the ground. Now you don't need to worry about falling in the hole. Use a piece of 2 x 6 lumber and slide it into the boom under the cylinder and block it up to support the cylinder before you pull out the pins. Push out the cylinder end pin first and use the hydraulics to retract the rod. Now your cylinder is short. Disconnect the hydraulic lines and remove the rod pin. Another machine will be handy now to lift out the cylinder.
Thanks for the Idea of swinging to side and using the stabilizers, I plan on just pulling the rod out though. this way might not need to drop bucket down in a hole,.... Should start on it in a few days and will have some pictures soon,....
Went pretty well, about 6 good hours. Dug a hole to get the cylinder extended and with pin out removed gland nut, snap ring. Ratchet strap and a come a long pulled it out, pressure wash and grease it up tomorrow I'll dig some more stumps,....