hello guys , im am a new member,i just purchased a jd310d. it is probably a early 80s .it has been sitting for 3 yrs ,i got it running and was checking out the tractor all of the hydraulic work but seems kind of weak, it will go in reverse fine but in forward it seems like a slipping clutch.i noticed 2 canisters under the tractor towards the rear . looks like filters , could this be the problem. any info would be greatly appreciated. thank you
If it has sat that long I would think filters, engine oil, ect. should be changed before running it because of moisture buildup and whatnot. Did you properly check the trans fluid, while running, or before startup, depends on machine.
If it's a 310D then the oldes it could be is 1990 I believe is when the D series was brought out. And in 1994 they changed the graphics on them. If you look at the 2 pictures below you can see the difference. The 1st picture is the newer release, the second is the older. The lag in the transmission could be the shuttle shift unit. Try your filters and oil, if the problem is still there, you're lookin for a new shuttle. If you have 4x4..... your not gonna be a happy camper.
Hi, I don't mean to steal this thread, but I just joined and need to reply to 2 more posts in order for me to post my own thread in which I would like to post and discuss with the members.... I see you were talking about the shuttle shifter, is this unit also known as the reverser? Because I just bought a 1988 JD 310c loader/hoe and I'm yet to order a manual because I don't know what I'm looking at, and have never worked on one... I fixed cars for the last 35 years, so this is all new like learning how to walk again... So if nobody minds I'd like to ask a few questions until I can post my own thread... Basically I'm trying to learn what and where are all the fluids that need to be addressed and changed being I just got it not knowing when they were last changed I'll assume they need to be done.... I'm not sure if I'm correct until I get the manual, is the reverser on the 310 models the same hydraulic oil that flows thru the rear axle/wet brake system and all the hydraulic attachments? I heard someone say the hydraulic system is all in one for the fluid, so I was not sure if this was the same oil that operated every component... thanks, and I'm sorry again for taking over the post... if you rather not me post here and reply I'll post again when I can.... Joe
Jooey---You have 2 systems on your rig---the reverser and the combined transaxle with hydraulic system.Definitely change all your fluids and filters since you don't know your rig's history. By the way,I probably have the hyd. filter for your 310 if you're interested.
Welcome Joeeye59, Scrib68. I found an old 315D, 4x2 sitting around, it still works i assume, its moved, it seems like the newer one. What did you pay for the 310D, i wanna get a fair deal?
Well I'll tell you what its like over here in CT to buy a backhoe... everything is so over priced its sickening.... I looked at about 12 backhoes in price ranges from the lowest was 5400 up to 9500... every single one was complete and total garbage, next stop for all them backhoes should of been the junk yard... I'm talking bad cracks in the hoe arm, serious hydraulic problems, every pin was beyond repair, engines were rapping, all were too far gone to chance using... then I did find a ford, think it was a 555, maybe an 1989? it was a nice big unit to have around the home, it was repainted and looked good, but it needed tires all around and three pistons were leaking real bad all over the place, so that price was $13000.00 so after fixing the leaks and getting new tires that would most likely be a $18000.00 (I guess) so I did find that I'd have to spend at least 15K or better to get a great machine that was well taken care of, and thats what I paid for mine, it was repainted, and I had new rear tires put on it for a total cost of $15500.00 and that was the complete total delivered in my driveway.... over all it looks great and in very good condition, all pins great shape, overall I'm very happy, its in decent shape, its a 1988 John Deere 310c with 8977 hours on it, and everything sounds good and no smoke... I did changed all the fluids & filters which added another $400.00 to the cost to own it. And at this point I don't even care if I over paid by 3000.00 because its worth it to not worry about some old clunker that keeps needing some kind of attention... My John Deere was sold new in 1988 and its a 310c.... not sure what the "c means? I need books on it... So thats what its like to buy a backhoe in CT, its such a high price small state to live in... I'm sure if I kept at it being the first one to call the ad I may have gotten one cheaper, but I was getting tired... So keep me posted what you find, I know from looking far away in other states it looked like there was a lot of nice backhoes out there that were quite a bit cheaper than mine... but they always look great until you get to run them sorry about the answer in the long version.... Joe
Yeah your right, its always good to change the fluids and filters on a new used machine.. and sure I'm interested in your filter... let me know more about it... I really need to get some books on my hoe, I was not paying attention when I drained the rear axle fluid and drained the storage box fluid that has the glass window on the side.... that I didn't seen until later that there is the reverser I should have drained as well making it three units to drain, I understand they all share the same fluid... so there was about 1.5 gallons of dirty oil I didn't get out that was still in the reverser.... but the fluid does look much better and a lot cleaner now after the change..... I poured back in about 17 gallons, and total hydraulics specs say with counting the rear axle, reverser, and storage box, takes 19 gallons, so it looks about right that I had some left over being I didn't drain the reverser.... I'm going to start a new post on brake chatter being the dealer said this was normal on the JD 310's... but after the fluid change it got so much better, but I think if I use Amsoil ATH it should get even better (I hope)
Backhoe does not crank over-1988 John Deere 310c wrong post here
Yes the brake chatter in Deere backhoes is normal. It's just the brakes way of tellin you, "I'm down here, and yep im earning a livin". Also another problem Deere's seem to have is not starting when hot. I noticed it today, the guy running our 710D killed the batteries trying to get it to fire. It cranks over fine, but nothin. So I hooked my 973 up he cranked some more and went for the foreman to tell him its (insert colourful word). I climbed in it, pulled the loader lever and held it while the engine cranked.... it fired up instantly. Just a Deere thing, if it doesn't start, pull up on the loader and she'll fire.
310D has 3 seperate reseviors. REVERSER (shuttle shift), TRANS-AXLE and HYDRAULIC. Reverser and Hyd are in the little door in front of the cab. transaxle is in the middle of the floor. the reverser or shuttle are the same for a 4 wheel drive as a 2 wheel drive, the difference is in the transaxle. On a D they are electric shifted to fwd or reverse, may be a bad solenoid. These reverser units are CHEAP to rebuild and are the same ones used in Case backhoes for a while. Drain the oil in the reverser and remove the oil pan, 6 bolts if i remember correctly, check in the pan and look at the suction screen for debris. The reverser oil pan is a little square thing right in the middle of the tractor underneath, easy to get to. Check the power going to the shift solenoids. Try swapping the connections between fwd and reverse and see if anything changes, if it does, problen is shifter or solenoid, not reverser. the oil does not mix between the three seperate resevoirs
brake chatter is not normal, and you have a hydraulic problem that is causing your starting issue. Your pump is going into stroke when it shouldn't be, what other problems do you have?
75% of the time the problem stated here is the clutches have burned up, the reverser is very simple to remove and rebuild. The COOLER MUST BE FLUSHED OR REPLACED BEFORE INSTALLING REBUILT REVERSER! Also the Torque converter should flushed as much as possible. I think I made my point.
these tractors have a gear pump on them, not a piston pump like older deere backhoes. there is no de-stroke valve on them. Brake chatter problems are usually an indication that the oil should be changed in the transaxle.
lol, I have 710 on the brain. I have 710 radial piston pump apart right now. The 310D stacked pump is indeed a gear pump, so most likely the guy with the backhoe that wont start unless a function is actuated shows that he has a high restriction in the open center system. Maybe a function is stalled that he doesn't know about, extendable dipperstick stalling up. A spool issue possibly. Could be numerous different issues. Brake chatter does as I said numerous time already indicate oil replacement. That doesn't guarantee the solution though, that's why I say change the oil run it for a few hundred hrs then go from there. If chatter is still evident then it is time to go to the brakes, pretty cut and dry.
check the end caps on the spools of the backhoe valve, notiorious for coming loose and causing a power drift. trust me on this one, had a customer complain of extend-a-hoe drift, checked it out, could not find anything wrong, talked to customer, said it only happened when he was roading it, extend would drift out!!!!!!!!!!!!!! contact pavement. slow tractor down, i got it figured out on the second service call, lol good thing the bucket wasn't drifting to open position too, (high speed ripper, lol)
I got you beat.... I drove 7hrs to our other store loaction, because of a hardstarting 410G that would start and only run for a few seconds then die. I got there and looked over the machine and got in the cab, tried to start the engine and exactly as he said hardstarting then would die after a few seconds. It sounded like a parastic load so I began inspecting each function for some kind of actuation. Well I found it, it was the extendable dipperstick. There was a small water bottle stuck under the pedal, he never noticed because the dipper lock was in.
crazy stuff you see out there!!! lol
Ok guys... Here goes. Our 710D on site is a 2000 model. The swing drifts to the left constantly, they know the problem but no one is interested in fixing it. The brakes chatter, I dont think the oil needs to be replaced due to the fact its on a constant replacement program.... one drip at a time and drips are quite frequent with this beast. The reverser is well safe to say... &*%^$# beyond belief. The gears in the front axle are ^&*#^$ as well, so they pulled the front driveshaft. The loader works ok except that it dumps super slow. The powershift tranny is also on the way out, sometimes you shift and it slips into the next gear, and sometimes it goes in like a ton of bricks and you can do a pretty awesome wheely from 2nd to 3rd since the operator doesnt let off the throttle when he shifts it. And then the pride and joy of the machine, the E-hoe........ The cylinder leaks which then causes the stick to fill with oil, so if you extend the stick and have the boom up... you get a lovely bath of rainwater/hydraulic oil :drinkup So the grand plan to fix this was not to pull the E hoe and fix the cylinder, they unhooked the lines and welded a piece of angle iron to the E hot and then welded it to the actual stick. The other day the weld broke while my operator was bookin it across site, the hoe slid all the way down, hoe pack caught the ground, ripped the lines off the hoe pack and it looks like the bucket cylinder has a little wow in it now. I could go on trust me, but I digress for the night. Anyone else feelin better about their backhoes now?
Keeping me busy
No we aren't keepin you busy... its all in house for us. We fix our own stuff and when it comes to the 710's they just get run till they die, and then their fixed just enough to limp on a little longer in their sad little lives.
Backhoe killer.
Why didn't someone just pin the dipper so the E hoe couldn't operate?Welding wasn't needed at all.I used to get that same lovely water/oil bath on my 510B when I momentarily forgot what might happen.Not fun at all,especially if you did it first thing in the morn.
We can't pin the dippers on the D's we have. The catch for it is at the bottom of the stick, and with a couple short pushes with the E hoe, you can bend the lock so it will never lock again, so thats where they welded the angle iron to the stick. Yesterday I got my crews normal 710 back, its a standard stick, and its a 2000 model, and only has 13 000hrs on her. Not a bad machine as long as you like the smell of hydraulic oil, and the 4wd doesn't work seeing as it still has no front driveshaft. Now it has a new problem though, the bolt that holds the pin and bushing for the stick cylinder on the housing end is walking out of the boom, so the guy running it has come up with a great solution. Instead of going to the trailer and grabbing a hammer, he shakes the stick violently whilst hitting it with a 1" open end wrench to get it back in. And don't get me started about why he backs up to a manhole to pack it dead center, then puts the hoe pack on the ground, lifts the backhoe 3ft in the air just to swing himself over a couple feet to pack. And people wonder why we go through a set of rubbers in 2 weeks.
Dont use such language unless you know what it means! If such a machine's operator comes to you one day and says "Baas, thee masheen, she is brokenn" ops, no problem, the machine is repairable with some effort, but if such an operator comes to you one day and says, "S$^%! The masheen, she is #@$&*#$!", then the machine is beyond help:crying. A miracle wouldn't even save it. sorry for the vivid discription, but thats what happens in Africa.
lol
Trust me.... such machines have warranted such language. Our usual 710 has been back on site for a couple days now, it came leaking oil from underneath naturally. I climbed in it yesterday because I didn't feel like waiting 45 minutes for the all star operator to change it over to the bucket. He went digging at 7am, I drove over with the 973 about 7:15 to see the progress and oil is puking out of the boom at the stick joint. I asked him whats goin on, he said a little leak, so he kept running it and I drove away shaking my head. Finally he came back about a half hour later saying the hydraulic pump is making funny noises. He took 2 pales of oil, filled it up and ran it for another 20 minutes or so. He then drove around puking oil out for another 2hrs. The mechanic showed up around 10:30 or so, he diagnosed it as the soft line where the hard line for the bucket cylinder comes up inside the boom and then joins to another hard line in the stick, we ordered one and had it running by 1:00. I went put the hoe pack back on, hoe packed for an hour since he was so far behind, and then returned the machine to him with a long list of things that needed packing. He drove over to me about 45 minutes later "dude I blew another hose" I started lookin around the hoe, its comin out almost the same place as before. I like the 710's, anytime I have had to run one for a few days I have never had a problem with them. Yeah they drip, yeah they smell funny, but I have never blown a hose. This character has had 4 different 710's in the 2 seasons he has worked for us and never gone more than 2 days without at least 2 or 3hrs downtime. Last year he had to park one because the fuel tank was leaking, so they sent out a welder to repair it. He climbed under the machine and showed me at least 10 large cracks in the frame that needed attention.
thanks for the info guys guess its time to find out why my 310c will go in reverse but not foreward. will change fluids and filters, and check out the solenoid before splitting and changing the reverser
Chuck what did you end up doing to fix your problem? I have a 310D doing the same thing. Reverse is fine, forward has 1st with little power and barely 2nd and no 3rd or 4th.
I have a 1992 310d. Brakes chatter and when going down steep grade it stops alot better if I put her in neutral. Changed transaxle fluid last summer. Still chatters. Are brakes hard to change on this hoe. Thanks.
They chatter, dont worry about it and dont put it in neutral to stop, not a good thing ever. But the chatter is perfectly normal.
The brakes on my 310C also chatter, good to know this seams to be a common issue.
I have a 310d that would go forward sometimes but would back up. I had to replace the reverser. When mine went there was metal so I change the torque converter too. I am looking for a method to level my loader bucket as the right side is about 2 inches lower then the right. Not sure what happened. Do you think it could be bent back?
um that doesnt sound good, might want to check your boom for cracks. also chech the round piece in by the bucket that ties them both together, sounds like a serious issue, did you buy it like this?
310d - uneven bucket I think it was straight when i bought it. I mainly noticed it plowing snow in the float position because it would pull to the right. I can see that it is not level but I can't see why. Thanks. This is a cool forum
might want to start a new thread with pics, I know i would like to see pics. Sounds like someone hit a curb or a manhole with the machine to bend the front bucket. definitely picture worthy!
Good Advice Good advice for sure...
The comment was made "do not put the reverser in neutral and then use the brakes" What does this cause? My 310c has some brake chatter and I often shift to N. prior to braking. I see or feel no ill effect. Actually less chatter. Please explain Thanks, David d.
Just wondering if anybody knows how to disconnect that lovely loud warning beeper that comes on when you reverse a John Deere 310D hoe?
Try this idea what I did rather than disconnecting it. you never know when you would have needed it... May I suggest putting black electrical tape across the top part of where the sound comes out from on that alarm box to make it a little more quite, but still able to be heard. (clean the plastic so the tape sticks) Set how loud accordingly for how loud your work area is so it can still be heard and it won't make you go deaf after an hour of like back bladeing.... I guess they are loud like that for when on that very large very loud construction site.... It would have been nice if JD have made a variable sound level switch, so the driver can set it accordingly to the job site, who knows, maybe at certain job sites some of the operators could have used the back-up alarm even louder ??? so by having a veritable sound level switch may have avoided many others from disconnecting their back-up alarms ?
Did you ever watch the back wheels when your going very slow and braking while hearing the brake chatter? I have and don't like what I see, because the wheel is vibrating so much its a wonder I never heard of rear axle bearing and seal damage/leaking or maybe that problem is out there and I never read it wow, you should see it, the rear wheels vibrate and shake around so much its like watching a huge powered "rock gravel separator shaking tray" lol....
Joeeye Thanks for the suggestion, I will try that. The reason I wanted to disconnect mine is that right now im digging a pool on my own property & since im out in the heat all day at work im trying to do this in the evenings & after dark when its not as hot outside, but I have an elderly lady that lives on the other side of the horse pasture (bout 250 yds) from where im digging at & just didn't want to disturb her with that alarm. When there is no other noises but that & crickets chirpin it carries very load for a good ways. I will try that though, Thanks
Oh yeah, don't ruin yours like I did with mine, I covered mine up completely so no sound came out, and that prevented the condensation and water that builds up in there from drying out, and I believe thats what ruined mine because it now intermittently works lol.... thats why I told you to keep a little spot open for sound to come out at the bottom, for any water build-up to drain out and dry up... Yeah, I hear you about waking people up, especially the night shift people, they are so grumpy lol....
So I got a JD310D, it was kinda tired but i figgered a good backyard machine. I noticed the manual calls for 250 hr check of MFWD fluids. How is the transfer case for the 4WD checked? Is is supplied with oil from the reverser? I get that the front axle is sealed/wet and the final drives at the wheels need checking, so far i can't get those half-inch drive plugs at the wheel loose, they are in there. Anyone have a 310D with MFWD?
Welcome to HEF Fred ! Should have started a new thread instead of piggy backing another. To answer your questions, the transfer case is part of the transaxle so if your fluid level in the transaxle is good, your transfer case is good. To get those plugs out (those suckers can be real tight) don't be afraid to give them a moderate smack (not too hard as to crack the case) with a hammer and a large punch. If you have a air chisel you could also try to turn them with that.
Did you ever figure this out? I just bought one. Home projects. And one of the neighbors is complaining already. Haven't found diagram/schematics yet. Don't want to give myself down time by cutting the wrong wire...
Backup alarms are annoying but OSHA requires them. For home use I would put it on a switch.