Hi all new member here but been diggin ditches for sometimes now and I’m getting ready to tackle the cylinder repack job on my 410d standard boom non extendahoe. I was hoping somebody might could pass along the rod end bolt torque specs on the boom,crowd,bucket,swing, Outrigger and loader cylinders if anybody had access to it. I sure would appreciate it, james river wants over 7k just to do the backhoe and outriggers where I’m at so I’m wanting to avoid it. I know I can do the job but want to try and get it as close as I can. Thanks for taking the time to read this
Welcome to HEF James ! B/H Boom - no torque, held on with a snap ring. B/H Bucket - 184 lbft + 1/8 turn (45*) Crowd - 221 lbft + 1/4 turn (90*) Swing - 295 lbft + 1/6 turn (60*) Stabilizer - 406 lbft + 1/12 turn (30*) Loader Boom - 148 lbft + 1/8 turn (45*) Loader Bucket - 185 lbft + 1/8 turn (45*)
Are those torque values for the rod bolt (piston end) on a 410d backhoe? Maybe I’m calling it the wrong thing?
I wouldn’t had thought this backhoe would have that low of values on these bolts,, maybe they do. That’s good news
Thank you sir, I really appreciate you taking the time to lass that information on to me
Yes they are, but when you turn them the amount of degrees after the initial torque, you may find you are not capable of reaching that tightness. Better have a real long cheater pipe.
I was anticipating a struggle, I’m 46yo with 3 blown discs from a injury in 2015 and only 165 lbs soaking wet. I was thinking of using a 3/4 drive and a 10ft cheater pipe but then learned about these torque multipliers and might grab on to try it. 10ft cheater with my weight should break anything loose but you never know. Torquing it back I think I can manage, it’s a 94 machine and I’m the third owner and it’s got just over 5k hours on it, it’s been kept inside when not in use for the last 20 years so I’m not sure if anybodys been in these cylinders yet. Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it
A torque multiplier isn't magic. For a multiplier to work you have to have a reaction arm. That means a stout bench to hold the shaft down while you make up the turns. But on torque turn, after the set torque is reached you can do the turn with an impact wrench.
you'll want the cheater pipe, those torque values are deceiving. The 45 extra degrees of turning after the torque is what is tough.
Thanks fellas for all your advice, I’ll stick to a couple length cheater bars and if I break the drive on my 3/4 I’ll weld the socket. I have a buddy that’s 245 who I can get for some added weight on the bar
Do any of you guys know the socket sizes on these cylinder rod end bolts? I’m preppin to see if I need to run get anything
I have often used a 36" pipe wrench on the socket with a long cheater pipe on it.
I wanted to post where I ordered my seals from, very nicely packed with included print out schematics. I didn’t need them but still nice to see care given. Fox machine seal kits if anybody needs any. Good deal and great service
That or welding the socket will be las resort. Maybe I’ll get lucky on this one